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throttle bodies



  clio sport 172 cup
im looking at buying throttle bodies for my 172 cup, just wondering if anyone has got any suggestions on the best place to buy the kit from?

cheers guys
 
  340i
thats just the hardware, no ecu

i'd go to emerald, they do a jenvey kit for £2K +£300 mapping (which includes 3 switchable maps ie 95RON, 98RON and economy or safe mode for example, maps are switchable via a dash mounted switch)

Sounds interesting!
 
  Lionel Richie
the emerald kit doesn't have all the fancy brackets etc etc of the omex/k-tec kit, but tbh i don't think that kit is the tidiest install anyway (in my opinion)

the emerald would be more of a DIY install, but at least that way you could do it a hell of a lot neater, its the details that count, ie hidden ecu's, hidden throttle cable, no secondary wiring loom (ie retaining the stock loom completley! plug in the new ecu and off you go)

i'll be using the emerald stuff for the F4R's when i'm up and running, if there is interest then i'll offer a ITB conversion, but don't be expecting much change from £4K
 
  clio 200 F4Rt
the emerald would be more of a DIY install, but at least that way you could do it a hell of a lot neater, its the details that count, ie hidden ecu's, hidden throttle cable, no secondary wiring loom (ie retaining the stock loom completley! plug in the new ecu and off you go)

LOL

hidden ECU and hidden throttle cable.... what a waste of time and effort.


Anyways, TB kit, GDI/OMEX or Ktec kit (same kit) is your best bet if you want an easy simple, fit and forget setup.

Otherwise by all means go the DIY route!
 
  Lionel Richie
not if you want as oe looking as possible install

the whole point of an off the shelf KIT imo is anyone can install it, they should've spent a lot more time on the loom, no need for a separate loom, the OE loom will be of a higher quality, so why not use that?

ecu's especially aftermarket ones imo shouldn't be in the engine bay (even if the manufacture says its fine)
 
  renault clio 1.4 si 2000
not to hijack a thread here, but fred, you say an ecu shouldn't b in the engine bay, has anyone relocated their ecu inside the car? i've not seen anyone on here discuss it, but should this be common practice, especially with an expensive aftermarket unit? is it difficult/ dangerous just to extend the cabling?
 
  B/G 182 + PH1 Track
not to hijack a thread here, but fred, you say an ecu shouldn't b in the engine bay, has anyone relocated their ecu inside the car? i've not seen anyone on here discuss it, but should this be common practice, especially with an expensive aftermarket unit? is it difficult/ dangerous just to extend the cabling?

It is just a matter of extending the wires, when we rewired our loom we probably shud have extended the wiring and but the Omex and the fuse box in to the car. I may get done later in the year though.
 
not to hijack a thread here, but fred, you say an ecu shouldn't b in the engine bay, has anyone relocated their ecu inside the car? i've not seen anyone on here discuss it, but should this be common practice, especially with an expensive aftermarket unit? is it difficult/ dangerous just to extend the cabling?

The standard ECU is a sealed unit. Most aftermarket ones are not i.e. have exposed RS232 connectors or similar.

Cheers
M
 
  RenaultSport clio 182
The Emerald ECU does not have a knock sensor built in. Can cause massive engine failure if fueling is incorrect.

Stick with GDI/Omex.
 
  GDI Demo 182, Rsi Spider
we have a knock sensor, if you want to use it..

the kits are not mapped to within an inch of the engines life to extract the last 1BHP.... they are calibrated to create the best power with reliability and safely run crap fuel if there were a bad batch from a supermarket for example!!!
 
  GDI Demo 182, Rsi Spider
will cost it later, there will be 2 prices.

1 .. bulkhead connector
2.. simple extension with std ecu connectons
 
Last edited:
  Mk2 172
the emerald kit doesn't have all the fancy brackets etc etc of the omex/k-tec kit, but tbh i don't think that kit is the tidiest install anyway (in my opinion)

the emerald would be more of a DIY install, but at least that way you could do it a hell of a lot neater, its the details that count, ie hidden ecu's, hidden throttle cable, no secondary wiring loom (ie retaining the stock loom completley! plug in the new ecu and off you go)

i'll be using the emerald stuff for the F4R's when i'm up and running, if there is interest then i'll offer a ITB conversion, but don't be expecting much change from £4K

PMSL. :D
 
  Mk2 172
LOL

hidden ECU and hidden throttle cable.... what a waste of time and effort.


Anyways, TB kit, GDI/OMEX or Ktec kit (same kit) is your best bet if you want an easy simple, fit and forget setup.

Otherwise by all means go the DIY route!

Just what i thought!!!
 
  raw striker
not if you want as oe looking as possible install

the whole point of an off the shelf KIT imo is anyone can install it, they should've spent a lot more time on the loom, no need for a separate loom, the OE loom will be of a higher quality, so why not use that?

ecu's especially aftermarket ones imo shouldn't be in the engine bay (even if the manufacture says its fine)


you do of course realize that you have just completely contradicted yourself don't you. a couple posts ago you where saying how your kits will be better as you can make all your own brackets and make the install 'much neater' which would be a HUGE amount of work..not forgetting the fact you have just said your kit will be well over a thousand pounds more expensive! and now your saying that a kit 'in your opinion' should be able to be fitted by anyone right? so please explain to me how fitting a kit that will cost more money and needs loads of messing about is 'easier' than connecting 2 wires into the standard Renault loom and fitting a fully comprehensive kit that can be fitted well inside a day 'by anyone who has half a brain' by following a very clear installation manual.

no mapping, no fabricating, no machining, no hunting for parts. yea your right. id go the diy route as well :rolleyes:

as for the 3 maps thing. please explain to me how you map an engine for economy? any engine runs at its most economical when it is at lambda 1. so since an omex will be running full lambda control at anything under 70% throttle which will cause it to run at lambda 1 im a little confused how you believe that can be improved upon? but i await to be educated??? :eek:
 
  Mk2 172
you do of course realize that you have just completely contradicted yourself don't you. a couple posts ago you where saying how your kits will be better as you can make all your own brackets and make the install 'much neater' which would be a HUGE amount of work..not forgetting the fact you have just said your kit will be well over a thousand pounds more expensive! and now your saying that a kit 'in your opinion' should be able to be fitted by anyone right? so please explain to me how fitting a kit that will cost more money and needs loads of messing about is 'easier' than connecting 2 wires into the standard Renault loom and fitting a fully comprehensive kit that can be fitted well inside a day 'by anyone who has half a brain' by following a very clear installation manual.

no mapping, no fabricating, no machining, no hunting for parts. yea your right. id go the diy route as well :rolleyes:

as for the 3 maps thing. please explain to me how you map an engine for economy? any engine runs at its most economical when it is at lambda 1. so since an omex will be running full lambda control at anything under 70% throttle which will cause it to run at lambda 1 im a little confused how you believe that can be improved upon? but i await to be educated??? :eek:

Uve been told! Ill go with deltav :)
 
  Clio 182 Cup
I'll be watching this thread. Looking a tb's and possibly cams in the summer. K-Tec is the front runner for me so far as it looks tidiest. Not the most mechanically minded person so would rather it as problem free as possible!
 
  Mk2 172
I'll be watching this thread. Looking a tb's and possibly cams in the summer. K-Tec is the front runner for me so far as it looks tidiest. Not the most mechanically minded person so would rather it as problem free as possible!

The ktec kit is the GDI/ Omex kit :)
 
  Mk2 172
But that means cutting/removing the slam panel right? Don't wanna start butchering my car tbh

The slam panel is simply removed which can easily be bolted back on. The plastic grill can all stay in tact. Only thing you need is bonnet pins which if you have the aerocatch one like most do then they look good and keep the bonnet down unlike the renault catch lol. Up to you really but the only thing that wont beable to be put back to standard simply is the bonnet. Other than that nothing is cut :)
 
  E39 M5 & Corsa track
there are lots of options out their for throttle body kits if you want to diy or if you want a tuner to do it. the gdi/omex kit is a very full kit that makes life easy, i fit management systems day in day out, some times i find it esier for me to work with the standard loom, other times i remove that totally and use a dedicated loom for the after market management and run a few wires for the standard clocks.

as for price, a fully fitted, custom mapped kit can be done for £3k IMO using taper throttle bodies
 
  E39 M5 & Corsa track
having it look oe is easy enough, depends who is doing the fitting, you can have the best kit out there, and if the fitter is a lash up then itll look terrible and more than likely give problems!
 
  2005 Nissan Navara
You can run leaner than stoich under "cruise" conditions. Say 15.5-16:1 AFR (depending on the engine, crown design etc), the limitation is misfire due to unstable combustion which occurs typically quite a bit leaner than 14.7.
Lambda 1 is used widely in OE calibration as multi-way catalytic convertors offer best conversion here. This doesnt mean it gives lowest BSFC.

The triple map feature, in my opinion, isnt required for this. Obviously you can calibrate an engine to give max torque where required (full load), AND best fuel efficiency (part load).
This feature is best suited to boosted applications, where levels of boost can be set to maintain decent driveability in different weather conditions...in my opinion.
 


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