ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

valver buying advice



  Mountune Tractor
Hi all,
I'm looking around for a decent valver at the moment and I'd like to know what specific things I need to look out for when I start viewings. Could anybody shed any light on cambelt changes, rusty areas, leaks, tyres, service intervals etc etc and any other useful bits you think might help.
Cheers.
 
  williamsclio.co.uk/forum
they can and will rust everywhere pal....archs, tailgate and the sills are the worse

I have a 16v forsale @ 1k with 11months mot and 5 months tax.
 
  Mountune Tractor
they can and will rust everywhere pal....archs, tailgate and the sills are the worse

I have a 16v forsale @ 1k with 11months mot and 5 months tax.

Ok thanks for that, your a bit far away from me though thanks.
 
Rust as siad is the killer on the bottom of the dorors and tailgate on the wear wash wipe, on the botom of the sills on the rear arches etc.
 
  valver
sunroof leaking, mounts including engine and dog bone. if there has been a leak check the alarm fobber works correctly as this is under the sunroof and doesnt mix well with water. cv boots. oil dials. im selling a valver also if your interested,
 
Just echoing what has already been said really. Rust on the arches, sills and boot inner. Tend to eat wheel bearings as do most mk1's - especially if theyve been lowered. Look for a good oil pressure - the dial on the dash should read around 3 on a cold idle, just above 0 on a warm idle, and around 3 at 3000rpm when warm. Expect it to go up to 6 if revved when cold.

Power steering is a common problem, if its noisy check the fluid levels - yellow rectangular box on drivers side of engine bay, if its full then your likely looking at a new p/s pump which can be expensive and is difficult to fit - same with gearboxes - if there is lots of nasty noises or it dislikes certain gears your looking at big bills.

Cambelts need to be changed every 70k but its preferable if its been done sooner than that, these are costly to replace so try find one thats had a new one in recently, if you buy one that hasnt been changed for the last 70k expect a sever credit card assault when it finally goes twang.

Same with clutches really, absolute b*****d to replace and as such its an engine out job which again means ££££'s so find one thats had a clutch recently or factor in the big cost of a new one in the asking price.

When looking for one, make sure it is being started from cold, look for any blue smoke from the exhaust, if there is then walk away. Dont be worried too much about slight ticking from the engine, but if there is a knocking lower down then leave as this could well be the death rattle.

On the inside as has been mentioned leaking sunroofs are a very common problem, check on the outside first to see if an attempt to seal it up has been made before - if it has then dont be alarmed, this is usually a good thing as if done properly it means theres less chance of you getting wet. If water has knackered the electronics in the central locking mechanism which sits just below the sunroof then it'll be yet another expensive trip to renault.

If the dash is dim then the bulbs need replacing, this isnt that difficult or expensive to do but obviously it is a dash out job. If the speedo itself doesnt work then the speedo cable could be knackered or its a problem at the gearbox end which could be a pain to sort. If the rev counter is adrift then usually its the unit itself thaty needs changing. This isnt too hard to do once you get the dash out.

Another problem sometimes experienced is the lack of heater blower. The heater will get warm but not blow out air, this is usually a fault with the multi plug that connects to the blower unit under the scuttle panel, or perhaps the blower unit itself.

Finally, dont take sweets from strangers or accept any offers to see 'puppies'

Hope this helps

Tom
 
  Clio 190bhp Hybrid
Cambelt every 72k or 5 years, whichever is soonest. Waterpump a git to get at. Look at coolant bottle. Many are brown and discoloured. Coolant like brake fluid should be changed every 2 years.

PAS often noisy. Clutches often heavy compared to most cars, you get used to it but then they gradually get heavier without you noticing as you just know they are heavy. When they start to snap cables, that's when you know it needs replacing but should get done before that.

Clutch is not engine out, can get to by moving subframe. Mine was done in 6 hours by local mechanic and £25 an hour plus £50 for valeo clutch from GSF.

Anything under the engine is a pig in labour time. Don't go for an IK as the engine bay gets hot with so little room and all you do is suck hot air in.

All places will charge excessive charges in terms of number of hours. Go to Renault specialists like Hillpower, APD, BB, Ktec etc and you pay a lot less as they work on these all the time. My last cambelt at BB was £147 IIRC compared to nearer £600 at renault.

Exhausts often rust. My 5 year old valver came with a Magnex as they previous owner experienced the rusty exhaust and in my 6.5 years of ownership never had to touch exhaust. Stainless Steel well worth it and cheaper than OE.
 
  Clio 190bhp Hybrid
Standard tyres are 185/55/15 and expensive with limited tyres to choose from. Many fit 195/50/15 as more modern tyres availabe and cheaper. Lose a little ride quality.

I've just fitted 16s on mine and the 195/45/16 makes it an even harsher ride.

Would not go larger the 16" and you would be better sticking with 15s.

A good indicator of a careful owner is all tyres being same size, brand etc. That way you know you have had even wear and none have been replaced due to accident damage or through misuse.
 
  PHS 1 172 SILVER
love the cars but run a mile because thats how long the list of things that will go wrong :S
 
  LY 200
love the cars but run a mile because thats how long the list of things that will go wrong :S

Not strictly true.....Depends what condition you buy one in really, how well documented it is, receipts for all work done, service history etc.

I had my olden for two years and that space of time i replaced the sunroof motor and the gearbox went at 92k.

If i were buying a valver now, the main things id look for are the following.

*Last time cambelt was done
*Has the clutch/gearbox been replaced in its lifetime (if your looking at cars around the 80-100k mark they will either need doing or shouldnt have long been done)
*Mounts replaced
*Noisy steering
*Rust around the seals but more so the arches (not just outside but inside and the lip) and bubbling around the rear wiper.

All the above are costly and a b**ch to get sorted so i would look for receipts for all otherwise you'll get caught out. Theres little space to work on these engines whilst in the bay so for clutch, cambelt, gearbox etc its usually an engine out job hence the costly bills that will roll in.

For example when i was getting the gearbox replaced i was getting quotes of between 5 and 700 coins......In the end i ended up finding a nice Williams engine and box to transplant which cost more than double!!!
 
Last edited:


Top