No, you've done a "code reading" session which has bought up a code relating to the flywheel target but hasn't offered any further explanation on the fault or how to resolve it.
Like I said in my first post above the flywheel signal really needs "scoping" to see if the generated waveform looks good as a picture tells a far better story than some random numbers that change every micro second would. Now an Oscilloscope isn't something that all garages have because they are pretty bloody expensive, which is why some places only have one between five or more techs (if they have one at all). This is because they don't consider them "diagnostic" equipment worth investing in and a code reader will get them thru every occasion (which is wrong... Wait till hybrids/EV's start arriving) and finally, they probably wouldn't know where to start with one. They are however (IMO) the second most important piece of kit a proper diagnostician can have in his/her tool box with modern cars... Maybe more so than a volt meter.
So if you have access to a "scope" you need to set your pickups/triggers, voltage and time scales then crank/run the car (preferably from cold so it runs like a bag). Then if you've setup the scope correctly, from the generated waveform, you should be able to see the following:-
If the waveform looks good and shows a clear 60-2 "trigger pattern" then there's either a wiring fault, an ECU fault or the problem lays elsewhere (such as the flywheel itself).
If it doesn't then either the sensor is buggered (which you have kind of ruled out as its already been guess replaced) or there is a wiring/electrical "noise" fault in the main engine loom which needs to be found.
Mick
Diamond Motors
PS, does the ABS function okay?
