Waterpump change

[selly]

I had a leak from the waterpump on my 2001 172, I had a look underneath and thought I would only have to remove the aux belt when I removed the 18mm bolt off the bottom pully I noticed the crank/cambelt pully had no woodruff key holding it on to the crank. I continued and replaced the pump, refitted the pully's and belt. I came to start it and it doesn't run. Sounds like the timeing is out. Can any one tell me if I can time it back up on the bottom pully?
Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[MicKPM]

Oh dear... that's done it!

The crank has no woodrough key as it is a floating setup... I'm sure you're now aware of this. Did you hear any kind of metallic "Tink" noises when you cranked it over? DON'T attempt to run the engine again but can you remember if it made any attempt to fire up when you cranked it?

Yes the bottom end can be timed back up but you're going to need a crank setting pin and a camshaft locking tool (Thankfully, you shouldn't need to touch the camshaft sprockets). The main worry is that you've possibly clipped multiple valves or thrown a rocker and all this really needs to be checked out properly as bent valves cost money to replace and thrown rockers can/do destroy camshafts.

Mick

 

[Jonny1*2]

Why did you need to touch the crank pulley? Oh and welcome to the f4r timing saga

 

[MicKPM]

I can understand why he *thought* it was a good idea... hold the tensioner spring with something like a jubilee clip then quickly buzz off the 18mm and allow the belt to drop as well as improving access to the water pump - what could possibly go wrong huh? (Face - Palm). Finding and setting TDC for the crank is easy, its the cams that are gonna get you as you really do need the locking bar to properly set them up. You can get it roughly there by eye assuming they were 100% correct before hand but often they're not.

Where are you based Selly?

Mick