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What gauge power lead to amp?
- Thread starter AlexG
- Start date
Hondata'd EP3 Type R
id go for 4 gauge 
Hondata'd EP3 Type R
i coudlnt even find it, So just got a big drill and drilled a hole in my firewall.
0 gauge FTW.
0 gauge FTW.
Hondata'd EP3 Type R
i use 10 gauge for my tweeters mate 
Hondata'd EP3 Type R
14 or 16 gaauge will be fine
Focus RS Mk1
0awg is totally overkill for the above applications...
Ive run 3 amps all from 4 gauge before, never had any power issues. All on JL audio gear too.
original poster, 4 gauge will be fine. nothing more needed. not until you start drawing huge current.
Did you bother reading my post....
^^Good for you
^^Strange, I thought thats what I said, but I pointed out its cheaper and easier to buy 0awg now and save on added cost and fitting time doing it all again....It's known as 'future proofing'....
The present amp delivers upto 300watts rms into 2chs. (bridged), draw at this output will be around 75amps to 80amps, 4awg at approx 12ft will handle 80 amps with minimal voltage drop.....
Add a 'beefy mono' and 4awg is out the window, if you assume, (as I did), that upto 600w rms into a front set would warrant a matched JBL GTO 14001e mono amp then 0awg becomes a must, (this amp likes lots of power at upto 1500w rms into 2ohm)....
Ph1 172 + Combo van
What about the REM lead from the headunit, this doesnt have to be upgraded does it?
Not yet im trying to get all the wiring and items i will need to fit it first
Orange
I have 3 amps run off 0 Gauge, split to 4 gauge.
That is what i'd do. No messing around. Just go straight for it and can upgrade to what-ever you want!
My Specs if your interested:
3 Pre-out headunit
2 x 1400wrms Subs to 2 x mono amps at 1250wrms - wired to 2 Ohm.
4 channel 125wrms x4 speaker amp
All the 'Big Three' were upgraded, all terminal blocks upgraded. Battery upgrade.
Spend Money To Save Money! (Don't buy cheap crap if your going to upgrade in the future, save and buy what you want)
That is what i'd do. No messing around. Just go straight for it and can upgrade to what-ever you want!
My Specs if your interested:
3 Pre-out headunit
2 x 1400wrms Subs to 2 x mono amps at 1250wrms - wired to 2 Ohm.
4 channel 125wrms x4 speaker amp
All the 'Big Three' were upgraded, all terminal blocks upgraded. Battery upgrade.
Spend Money To Save Money! (Don't buy cheap crap if your going to upgrade in the future, save and buy what you want)
Orange
By this I can see you don't quite understand what an REM does!
REM is like a switch. As soon as a tiny bit of power goes through it, it turns on the amp. I have the standard REM which I have put in series with the 3 amps.
Ph1 172 + Combo van
Yep its what i though i just had to make sure as everything i have at the moment has to be upgraded.
By this I can see you don't quite understand what an REM does!
REM is like a switch. As soon as a tiny bit of power goes through it, it turns on the amp. I have the standard REM which I have put in series with the 3 amps.
on the clios currently what earthing does it have?
is it from the engine block to the negative on the battery or engine block to the chasis?
i know one, the battery negative to the chasis. any others?
PH2 172
id go for 4 gauge
4 Gauge thats massive for a little amp like that only needs 8 or 10 gauge
Orange
4 gauge is massive.... but it is needed if planning to upgrade.
Search the 'Big Three' on www.talkaudio.co.uk. All the info you need!
What I have said in the thread, is to encourage you to think 'Are you going to upgrade in the future' - if so why not spend a little extra and get what you will want in the end.
Also is you are going for higher end stuff. OD you need to upgrade power cables earthing, RCA cables......
PM me if you wana know anything else... I have alot of useful experience.
Search the 'Big Three' on www.talkaudio.co.uk. All the info you need!
What I have said in the thread, is to encourage you to think 'Are you going to upgrade in the future' - if so why not spend a little extra and get what you will want in the end.
Also is you are going for higher end stuff. OD you need to upgrade power cables earthing, RCA cables......
PM me if you wana know anything else... I have alot of useful experience.
Ph1 172 + Combo van
cheers mate you are really helpful and you obviosly know your stuff so i have another question for you if you dont mind.
the speaker wires going to the doors. these have to go under the carpet as the power leads are down the trims on the sides of the car. do i have to take the front seats out or is it possible to just fish it through the seats underneath the carpet. thanks
also at the moment i have the rem lead running along the same side of the car as the rca to the boot. should i move it to the same side as the power lead or isit not going to make a difference? i assume no as it is only a tiny amount of power?
the speaker wires going to the doors. these have to go under the carpet as the power leads are down the trims on the sides of the car. do i have to take the front seats out or is it possible to just fish it through the seats underneath the carpet. thanks
also at the moment i have the rem lead running along the same side of the car as the rca to the boot. should i move it to the same side as the power lead or isit not going to make a difference? i assume no as it is only a tiny amount of power?
If u have a shielded RCAs cables u can run em next to the power cable and REM thats what i did and there is no interference. But running the RCA next to the remote wire shud be fine. as for the front speaker wires, are they coming from the boot to the front because they are running off an amp instead of straight from the head unit? i think you could feed them out of the boot under the rear seats then under the carpet to the front, will probally be tricky but shouldn't need to take out the seats.
Orange
Disconnect the battery, before you proceed....wait 5 mins....
Seats are easy to take out! 4 bolts under the car(Under rubber gromits). 10mm bolts... maybe 8mm?
The airbag cables disconnect...usually. Or if not. lean the seat away from the carpet(Watch out for sharp edges catching on your other seats!)
Take off side plastic trim. Pull up carpet. Cut small groves in the squishy stuff, for the cables.
Don't worry about the REM cable, unless you are going for pure SQ and are installing a massive set-up. (But I don't see you doing that.)
Orange
:approve:
Disclaimer..... Anything to-do with speaker installs always SOUNDS easy. NEVER is!
Well your not right there tbh!
All JL audio amplifiers should have a 4 gauge power cable going to each amplifier. Yes it will work only running one in but there is goin to be quite alot of current draw going down that cable. I work for a JL audio dealer and we are currently building there UK demo car. Cable sizes etc are vital!!!!
I would run at least a 4 gauge in to run one decent sized amp. By putting a bigger cable than that in just allows you to adapt the system at a later date
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