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Which Machine Polisher??
- Thread starter tomj
- Start date
I wouldn't bother with a DA now. After using the CYC rotary it's so small and easy to use, you could do very little damage imo. If you read up enough and practice slowly, even on scrap panels you'll be fine.
A DA can do just as much damage asa rotary in the wrong hands. After a monster detail yesterday the DAS6 pro was putting twice the amount of heat into the panel than the rotary. Too much heat is usually where the problems begin.
Here's a link to it http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis...r-ep800-compact-rotary-polisher/prod_854.html
Even up against a 3m machine/Millwaukee yesterday I still picked this up first and did 90% of the car with it.
A DA can do just as much damage asa rotary in the wrong hands. After a monster detail yesterday the DAS6 pro was putting twice the amount of heat into the panel than the rotary. Too much heat is usually where the problems begin.
Here's a link to it http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis...r-ep800-compact-rotary-polisher/prod_854.html
Even up against a 3m machine/Millwaukee yesterday I still picked this up first and did 90% of the car with it.
Rotary is usually a lot faster and the results are better. Also if youre doing a BMW for example DA isnt really an option especially when you have to compound.
Ive not used the DAS6 pro but I understand its basically a DA that wont stop rotating under pressure, like a rotary. Its not as though its difficult to get the hang of machine polishing with any machine but I do think the beginner would be better off with a DA.
I think asking a beginner to start with a rotary is asking for trouble. But maybe youre better than I was when I first picked up a machine polisher.
Ive not used the DAS6 pro but I understand its basically a DA that wont stop rotating under pressure, like a rotary. Its not as though its difficult to get the hang of machine polishing with any machine but I do think the beginner would be better off with a DA.
I think asking a beginner to start with a rotary is asking for trouble. But maybe youre better than I was when I first picked up a machine polisher.
I think the CYC rotary blurs the lines. I'm not talking about picking up a Festool and detailing cars. I'm talking about this specific machine. It's a fantatsic rotary for doing your own car ect.. it's no beast but it's the perfect learning toold weight wise and for controlling.
I seen C1 on a car yesterday HOLY s**t! I've never seen water sheet like that in my life ever! It's on my Carbon splitter and exhaust now. The car is wearing Shield and Glasur.
I'm thinking of C1 soon.
I can always wax over it if I wanted to.
I seen C1 on a car yesterday HOLY s**t! I've never seen water sheet like that in my life ever! It's on my Carbon splitter and exhaust now. The car is wearing Shield and Glasur.
I'm thinking of C1 soon.
I can always wax over it if I wanted to.I thought you didnt like these glorified water concoctions lol ???!! Ive had mega issues with Body Wrap, but i think i might of cracked it. All to do with beading issues though, the sheeting and looks are there.
Does the CYC have a lot less torque or something? ive only got the S1M 180 thing and thats ok for cutting work or even finishing on harder paints but its very bulky.
Does the CYC have a lot less torque or something? ive only got the S1M 180 thing and thats ok for cutting work or even finishing on harder paints but its very bulky.
No the CYC is dopuble geared. Doesn't bog down at all. Bloody powerful little machine. Corrected the FRP with ease and that 997 Turbo I done.
I know I hated it but after seeing what it was like in person i'm shocked. It's almost like having 90 layers of Glasur on the car.
I know I hated it but after seeing what it was like in person i'm shocked. It's almost like having 90 layers of Glasur on the car.
I just think they have a little too much bite for a beginner. there was always that temptation for me to apply extra force when removing defects and the DA allowed me to do that.
I think if he gets a scrap bonnet and practices technique on it, and also has a look at how easily you can burn through and remove paintwork edges then fine.
You were right about it being boring Gally, once its on its on. I dunno how to remove the stuff. Theres no summer evening waxing here, just meticulous application with a small applicator.
If you get it right though, BW beads like this. But its a pig to get the conditions right.
I think if he gets a scrap bonnet and practices technique on it, and also has a look at how easily you can burn through and remove paintwork edges then fine.
You were right about it being boring Gally, once its on its on. I dunno how to remove the stuff. Theres no summer evening waxing here, just meticulous application with a small applicator.
If you get it right though, BW beads like this. But its a pig to get the conditions right.
BW ain't for me. It's just an easier nano coating. Too fussy. C1 imo is leagues ahead of anything else i've seen. Like seriously.
My mate is applying it to his Nissan, he's done the front so far so we'll see how long the sheeting lasts. Scratch resistance aswell and would probably see 24 months (not all beading and sheeting) before needing reapplied.
My mate is applying it to his Nissan, he's done the front so far so we'll see how long the sheeting lasts. Scratch resistance aswell and would probably see 24 months (not all beading and sheeting) before needing reapplied.
I did look at C1 mate and the impression I got was that it was leagues ahead. Plus theres no bulshit curing problems or moisture issues. And i think itll last longer. But it was so damm expensive.
I also machined my car last week mate. Also applied 2 coats of BW as per instructions and the beading is good, but not as good as it would have been if Id of applied Glasur for example.
BW for winter - Great. Summer - No. it doesnt even look as good as my HD Cleanse or Cleaner Fluid and Zymol Cabon/Glasur or BOS combo IMO.
I also machined my car last week mate. Also applied 2 coats of BW as per instructions and the beading is good, but not as good as it would have been if Id of applied Glasur for example.
BW for winter - Great. Summer - No. it doesnt even look as good as my HD Cleanse or Cleaner Fluid and Zymol Cabon/Glasur or BOS combo IMO.
If its for winter then fine. but as you said yourself - No more evening waxing.
BW is the same now ive cracked it. All the hydrophobic properties are there, although I expected Glasur like beading from the photos I saw. But it just isnt waxing. Im dying to get the pot of Carbon out and give it a coat.
Im suprised you use Glasur over carbon btw. Sounds to me like you get the wax out on a monthly basis if not sooner. Which is something I do. Carbon lasts its worth. Even after 3 washes it still beads and sheets really well. I dont think it needs topping up more than once a month. I own both too and always get the carbon out.
BW is the same now ive cracked it. All the hydrophobic properties are there, although I expected Glasur like beading from the photos I saw. But it just isnt waxing. Im dying to get the pot of Carbon out and give it a coat.
Im suprised you use Glasur over carbon btw. Sounds to me like you get the wax out on a monthly basis if not sooner. Which is something I do. Carbon lasts its worth. Even after 3 washes it still beads and sheets really well. I dont think it needs topping up more than once a month. I own both too and always get the carbon out.
GW 200 Gone :( BG182
I don't have Carbon mate. Was used over swissvax shield, solid base for Glasur and tbh we were just messing around. Got some chemical guys ezyme to go on. Maybe on Thursday. Probably not actually. I want to see some more glasur sheeting!
Ordered
Any questions mate, don't hesitate to ask. Make sure you read the rotary guide and stick to menzerna polishes if you're going to be correcting.
GW 200 Gone :( BG182
Thanks mate appreciate it
Theres just some light swirling on the 200 which im after correcting, before getting into it 'serious' was just going to try some srp with some poorboys white diamond and see how i got on.
Thanks mate appreciate it
Cool mate, srp by machine is fantastic. Use both products and a solid durable wax and you'll be fine.
Sorry to hijack the thread, but the mods and admin are always going on about searching an double posts etc, so while there was an ongoing thread about machine poilishers i thaught i would post it here.
Gally, you say that the CYC rotary is a brilliant bit of kit for beginners, but then in other threads i see that CYC are getting slated with there service so dont realy want to order with them
instead i have found the 'dodo juice' buff daddy (DA) and the spin dr (Rotary) both on elite care care (gets awesome reviews on here and DW). so out of them two which would people choose?
thanks for any help
Gally, you say that the CYC rotary is a brilliant bit of kit for beginners, but then in other threads i see that CYC are getting slated with there service so dont realy want to order with them
instead i have found the 'dodo juice' buff daddy (DA) and the spin dr (Rotary) both on elite care care (gets awesome reviews on here and DW). so out of them two which would people choose?
thanks for any help
Forget the spin doctor it's useless and forget the buff daddy it has less power than the das6 pro. The only other DA I would recommend is this.. http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acat...-power-plus-dual-action-machine-polisher.html
I would still buy from CYC it's just there service is a little slower. I would happily buy the CYC rotary and await delivery. They aren't a bad company they do sort stuff just he kinda works himself so it takes time.
Get the CYC, why would you want to spend £30 and end up with a less powerful machine that's not as good. It's like a rotary in a DA's body.
I would still buy from CYC it's just there service is a little slower. I would happily buy the CYC rotary and await delivery. They aren't a bad company they do sort stuff just he kinda works himself so it takes time.
Get the CYC, why would you want to spend £30 and end up with a less powerful machine that's not as good. It's like a rotary in a DA's body.
Golf GT & A4 Avant
I've really not got on with my DA for correction. Is fine for cleansers etc but really don't like the feel when doing slow prolonged passes. Had a quick play with somebodies rotary and felt much nicer to control. Think it was a milwaukee? big red thing? Was nice not having to go so slow or apply as much pressure. I've been looking into training also and everybody does it for rotary, but not DA so I'm thinking of making a purchase.
My question is, is it worth paying for a decent rotary, 3M for example over the EP800. one thing I don't like is the speed dial at the handle base but that's not a big deal I guess.
PS Gally, don't do the C1. I'm trying to get hold of a bottle to practice on a spare bonnet to do a family car, but 2years + of just washing, a car with a clinically clear look? Wouldn't have it on my car. When I saw it the best description I can give is, and bear with me:
A nice sunny day and you have 2 pairs of sunglasses, blacked lense and brown lense. Black gives clear definition and good optical clarity but loks a little colourless and un-interesting? Brown lense has great definition, maybe not such good clarity but added depth, colour and warmth
My question is, is it worth paying for a decent rotary, 3M for example over the EP800. one thing I don't like is the speed dial at the handle base but that's not a big deal I guess.
PS Gally, don't do the C1. I'm trying to get hold of a bottle to practice on a spare bonnet to do a family car, but 2years + of just washing, a car with a clinically clear look? Wouldn't have it on my car. When I saw it the best description I can give is, and bear with me:
A nice sunny day and you have 2 pairs of sunglasses, blacked lense and brown lense. Black gives clear definition and good optical clarity but loks a little colourless and un-interesting? Brown lense has great definition, maybe not such good clarity but added depth, colour and warmth
Agree, rotary is so much faster. The only time a rotary gets difficult to control is when youre compounding, and then you just need to keep a firm grip on it.
Also, isnt C1 scratch resistant or soemthing? I used Gayquartz on two company cars, the ceramic paint kit? The water behavior was so appauling (It did sheet, just) I ended up topping the cars off with megs 135, I honestly thought there was no protection. Anyway its been on about a year now and I can honestly say that I dont think ive induced any swirl marks what so ever, and thats with bad drying towels and a single bucket method technique. Not the most carful washing technique I must admit.
Gayqyartz also never really looked that good to me, bit dull and uninteresting.
Thats also where my lvoe of Megs 135 came from. It also gives a really lovely gloss and deep shine like youd get with Z8. It lasts long enough for me to get round to washing it again if not longer.
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RB 182 Cup
I've been buying from Tim @ CleanYourCar for about 4 years now and I've never had a problem.
Also use Mat @ i4detailing quite a bit and his service is also top notch.
I have the Porter Cable 7424 Dual Action and the 3M Rotary.
The PC is good, but god the 3m is superb.
For me, really good handling, reasonably light, soft start and a low min speed.
As said earlier by Gally, Menz polishes are quality with the rotary.
I use Raceglaze '55' wax for protection - it is phenomenal stuff. i did 200 miles+ on the motorway the other day and the weather was red-hot, rainy, red-hot, then rainy again and when I got back in I didnt have ONE fly squat on the car.
It looked like it had just been cleaned.
And the beading of water on the wing mirrors as the rain pelted down was great.
Also use Mat @ i4detailing quite a bit and his service is also top notch.
I have the Porter Cable 7424 Dual Action and the 3M Rotary.
The PC is good, but god the 3m is superb.
For me, really good handling, reasonably light, soft start and a low min speed.
As said earlier by Gally, Menz polishes are quality with the rotary.
I use Raceglaze '55' wax for protection - it is phenomenal stuff. i did 200 miles+ on the motorway the other day and the weather was red-hot, rainy, red-hot, then rainy again and when I got back in I didnt have ONE fly squat on the car.
It looked like it had just been cleaned.
And the beading of water on the wing mirrors as the rain pelted down was great.
OK, read the guides and now I am even more confused (doesn't take much )
My clio is 6 years old but the paint work isn't too bad, there are very light swirls that I'd like to remove but I want something I am not likely to f**k things up with. I also have a Qashqai less than a year old which has very few marks but would like to polish up now and again.
So the question is, DA or Rotary (I am thinking a rotary might be overkill for what I need) but I am also lost amongst the numerous pads/polish combos. Should I just get something like this as a starter?
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Britemax_DAS6_PP_Polish_Seal_Kit_1.html
)My clio is 6 years old but the paint work isn't too bad, there are very light swirls that I'd like to remove but I want something I am not likely to f**k things up with. I also have a Qashqai less than a year old which has very few marks but would like to polish up now and again.
So the question is, DA or Rotary (I am thinking a rotary might be overkill for what I need) but I am also lost amongst the numerous pads/polish combos. Should I just get something like this as a starter?
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Britemax_DAS6_PP_Polish_Seal_Kit_1.html
