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Whining whilst turning. PAS pump?
- Thread starter -Leigh-
- Start date
mmm, no I definatley think it's coming from the engine. It sounds like when you turn the steering full lock and it struggles, but all the time when turning. Whilst on the breakfast run earlier, it drowned out the radio when I was above 5k lol.
Am just about to go and look at a 182 though, maybe I'll just buy that instead.
Am just about to go and look at a 182 though, maybe I'll just buy that instead.
Ok, as you say, it could well be a bearing. If I jack it up and spin the wheel, what am I listening for? Scraping sounds?
I checked it. There's plenty in there. Though I have a feeling it may be above the max mark, though Renault surely would have checked that in the last service?
Before it gets the chance to get worse, check the PAS pressure sensor. It's grey, under the fuel rail. Unplug it and look in the plug. Red (or pink) fluid indicates this is broken. This is very common.
The sensor bursts and the pump doesn't know it's pumping too hard. The sensor is around £45, if you change it quickly the pump may be fine.
The sensor bursts and the pump doesn't know it's pumping too hard. The sensor is around £45, if you change it quickly the pump may be fine.
Just a bit more info - while looking at 172s last year I saw three where the PAS oil was pink and emulsified. All had whiny PAS pumps. last month my 02 172 started doing this.
When I unplugged my sensor the fluid was leaking through it and I was losing PAS oil from it as well as the fact it wasn't working. The connectors to the sensor should be dry but any sign of fluid in the plug shows it's leaking.
My mate needed 1L of oil and a pressure sensor at MoT time last month too.
Try bleeding the air out as well, it may improve things while you get a new sensor if you need it. Turn lock to lock with the engine off and the PAS cap off. Then lock to lock again still with the cap off and the engine on. Then replace the cap.
When I unplugged my sensor the fluid was leaking through it and I was losing PAS oil from it as well as the fact it wasn't working. The connectors to the sensor should be dry but any sign of fluid in the plug shows it's leaking.
My mate needed 1L of oil and a pressure sensor at MoT time last month too.
Try bleeding the air out as well, it may improve things while you get a new sensor if you need it. Turn lock to lock with the engine off and the PAS cap off. Then lock to lock again still with the cap off and the engine on. Then replace the cap.
Mazda MX5 1.8
non-sport models have electric....... sports have proper power steering
ill get my haynes manual out and see if it mentions anything in there
Wish they had, then I wouldn't have a greasy red engine undertray and the embarrassment of driving a car that whines like a UFO when it's cold.
Still, a new sensor made a big difference. And the very slight remaining whine Renault assured me would be fine.
Ok. the fluids brown though lol, not red like in the resevior.
Does anyone have the part number for this part??
Is it easy to change? ie, can I do it myself?
I wish I had electric lol. Ok cheers matey.
SENSOR P.A.S. SC 7700413763.
Didn't do it myself though, it was in at Renault anyway. I suspect that it would be simple enough unless the residual pressure made the oil come out when you undid it.
If it were me, I'd do it quickly (!) and try taking off the cap and turning the wheel first to try and release the remaining pressure. And be ready to get the new one on fast!
I've changed temp sensors before really quickly without losing more than a few ml of coolant. If you loosen it a bit first you'll know if it's still under pressure.
I'm sure someone else has done it themselves and can advise.
Didn't do it myself though, it was in at Renault anyway. I suspect that it would be simple enough unless the residual pressure made the oil come out when you undid it.
If it were me, I'd do it quickly (!) and try taking off the cap and turning the wheel first to try and release the remaining pressure. And be ready to get the new one on fast!
I've changed temp sensors before really quickly without losing more than a few ml of coolant. If you loosen it a bit first you'll know if it's still under pressure.
I'm sure someone else has done it themselves and can advise.
Ok cheers for that. I will get one ordered as soon as I'm back from holiday. If it's not that, then a new pump will be needed I suppose.
Anyone know ruffly how much they are and how hard to fit? Should have bloody had it done when I had the cambelt done!! Just typical it starts whining just as soon as the new cambelts fitted!!
Anyone know ruffly how much they are and how hard to fit? Should have bloody had it done when I had the cambelt done!! Just typical it starts whining just as soon as the new cambelts fitted!!
lemonnobby
ClioSport Club Member
That switch is easy mate you wont lose much fluid and its not under pressure
Wicked. May even do it this week then if I can.
lemonnobby
ClioSport Club Member
take the injector rail cover off, excess is easy then small spanner on the small nut on the power steering pipe and a 21mm on the switch.
Mike@RenTech changed the aux belt when he did the cambelt about 3 weeks or so ago. So that should be fine.
Well, maybe I will change the fluid if the sensor doesn't fix it. Need the sensor anyway, as it's leaking slightly.
Well I fitted the sensor earlier. Whoever said fluid wouldn't come out was wrong lol. It did. I managed to catch some of it, and spilt a little. Be ok?
And the noise is still there. I'm £55 lighter though.
When I'm back, I will have the fluid changed, but I have a feeling it can't be that.
Renault want £170 +VAT for a pump.
GSF have one for £94 on their site, not sure if it's the right one though.
How hard is it to change the pump?
And the noise is still there. I'm £55 lighter though.
When I'm back, I will have the fluid changed, but I have a feeling it can't be that.
Renault want £170 +VAT for a pump.
GSF have one for £94 on their site, not sure if it's the right one though.
How hard is it to change the pump?
Did you bleed the air out? Take the cap off, turn it lock to lock a couple of times with the engine off, do the same with the engine on, then replace the cap.
If it's still just as bad, the knackered sensor may have knackered the pump too.
At least if you do need to change the pump you'll have a working sensor to tell it what to do, a broken one would eventually wreck the new pump.
New pump you would need to remove the aux belt, drain all the oil and then refill it.
If it's still just as bad, the knackered sensor may have knackered the pump too.
At least if you do need to change the pump you'll have a working sensor to tell it what to do, a broken one would eventually wreck the new pump.
New pump you would need to remove the aux belt, drain all the oil and then refill it.
2.9 hours on dialogys. Probably have to take the engine mount off and support the engine to get into the pump. Oh and take off the bumper and slam panel.
Doing the lock to lock thing is fine with the engine off. But can be a bit difficult. Just keep doing it for a bit, then with the engine on, and the fluid level will drop till there's no air.
With any luck your pump may just not like some air stuck in the system. Problem is, the longer the sensor was not working properly, the more the pump is likely to have worn.
edit: What I don't get is why these bloody things burst but no warning lights come on and the first you know about it is when the pump groans or all your PAS oil disappears.
Doing the lock to lock thing is fine with the engine off. But can be a bit difficult. Just keep doing it for a bit, then with the engine on, and the fluid level will drop till there's no air.
With any luck your pump may just not like some air stuck in the system. Problem is, the longer the sensor was not working properly, the more the pump is likely to have worn.
edit: What I don't get is why these bloody things burst but no warning lights come on and the first you know about it is when the pump groans or all your PAS oil disappears.
the sensor has nothing to do with how the pump operates. the sensor is there to tell the injection when the pas system is under pressure so to prevent the engine stalling. ie - if your doing a 3 point turn. As you turn the wheel fluid pressure increases and trips the sensor sending a signal to the injection ecu. The injection ecu will now compensate for the extra load on the engine created by the pas pump and stop the engine potentially stalling. The main problem with them switches is that there prone to leaking.
Cheers for that, I was going off what I was told by the Renault dealer. I'll be having words about this with them. They also told me my rear pads were 95% worn and when I took them off they were on average 7.98mm. I'm going back Friday with a micrometer and my perfectly serviceable pads.
Sincere apologies for passing on misleading info. Though it seems that despite needing a new sensor, it also means xzibit will probably definitely need a new pump then too.
Sincere apologies for passing on misleading info. Though it seems that despite needing a new sensor, it also means xzibit will probably definitely need a new pump then too.
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