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Yes, it's another Mk1 16v (maybe F4R) Project!



wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
not sure, it's properly dead though, it won't prime on switch on, or talk to my RS Tuner box. My best guess is it somehow got goosed during all the poking about.

didn't f0xy's do the same when his immobiliser emulator packed in.
 

Paddy_g46

ClioSport Club Member
bay1.jpg
 

Paddy_g46

ClioSport Club Member
ah i remember now, silly me:eek:

patrick you need to move the header tank, the bonnet wont close were it is now;)

Lol cheers ill have a look for a lower place to mount it, have you got any pics of the underside of the bonnet?

Also I have raise the left and right engine mounts by 5mm with washers (so the engine now sits 5mm higher than it would have done), is this going to cause problems?
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
Lol cheers ill have a look for a lower place to mount it, have you got any pics of the underside of the bonnet?

Also I have raise the left and right engine mounts by 5mm with washers (so the engine now sits 5mm higher than it would have done), is this going to cause problems?

it may do but no way of testing till you have a go, why did you raise it

ill take a pic of my bonnet tomorrow for you, mine clears everything just needs abit more work to make sure its perfect
 

Paddy_g46

ClioSport Club Member
it may do but no way of testing till you have a go, why did you raise it

ill take a pic of my bonnet tomorrow for you, mine clears everything just needs abit more work to make sure its perfect


I did it to make the flange on the exhaust manifold sit in a slightly better position, although once I sort my downpipe I might realise I can remove them.

I am thinking I may have to raise the bonnet mounts to allow it to close without touching!
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
that should be fine

good idea with the washers i could so with mine being higher so the downpipe clears the arb easier.

there is a little play in the bonnet hinges you should be ok
 

Paddy_g46

ClioSport Club Member
that should be fine

good idea with the washers i could so with mine being higher so the downpipe clears the arb easier.

there is a little play in the bonnet hinges you should be ok

You will need to modify the battery tray if you want to do it, the 2 washers go flat under it but then the 2 vertical bol holes need elongating and large washers used, very easy though, took me 10 mins!

Then on the other side you just need 1 washer and put it on the stud before you drop the engine onto it. Simples.
 

Daniel

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
Rev counter.... slightly more difficult. We're all using a resistor (10k i believe, I have a spare I'll send on when you're ready for it) attached in a 'pull-up' method. Need to locate the rev wire at the back of the clocks (i'll check haynes if youre struggling), splice into it and solder one end of the resistor in. The other end of the resistor needs to go to an ignition live. Then you'll have a perfect rev counter and HOPEFULLY 7.2k to play with!
 

Paddy_g46

ClioSport Club Member
Rev counter.... slightly more difficult. We're all using a resistor (10k i believe, I have a spare I'll send on when you're ready for it) attached in a 'pull-up' method. Need to locate the rev wire at the back of the clocks (i'll check haynes if youre struggling), splice into it and solder one end of the resistor in. The other end of the resistor needs to go to an ignition live. Then you'll have a perfect rev counter and HOPEFULLY 7.2k to play with!

Nice! Doesnt sound to bad! Well I am ready for it if you want to send it to me! ;)


Is he right?
 
  BMW M5 & E36
Rev counter.... slightly more difficult. We're all using a resistor (10k i believe, I have a spare I'll send on when you're ready for it) attached in a 'pull-up' method. Need to locate the rev wire at the back of the clocks (i'll check haynes if youre struggling), splice into it and solder one end of the resistor in. The other end of the resistor needs to go to an ignition live. Then you'll have a perfect rev counter and HOPEFULLY 7.2k to play with!

Oi, that's what I typed for you many moons ago!

Oh, i read your post above too. Lol!
 

Paddy_g46

ClioSport Club Member
So can any of you please tell me exactly what resistor I need? I want to get it done ASAP.

edit: So I dont cut the wire at the back of the clocks but just tap into it?
 

Paddy_g46

ClioSport Club Member
Just a bog standard 10k Ohm metal film resistor, Maplins have them in store and other places

Ah ok fair enough, so just ask for a 10k Ohm resistor? In fact I probably have a packet of them in my van. (somewhere!)

Is locating the rev wire a royal pain in the arse? Any diagrams floating about?
 
Ive not got my Haynes manual to hand, I can check tomorrow if you have not found out by then. Easy with that as its listed in the wiring diagrams in there!
 

Paddy_g46

ClioSport Club Member
Ive not got my Haynes manual to hand, I can check tomorrow if you have not found out by then. Easy with that as its listed in the wiring diagrams in there!

Oh ok I have a haynes manual I will have a look myself and see what I can find, didn't realise it had wiring diagrams in there, cheers!
 
About 15-20 pages from the back there is a diagram of the clocks, with all the pins of the connectors listed. They are all labelled with single letters.. Find the rev counter/tacho one and see what connector/pin it refers to on the diagram above it, then you can find it on the car - should be easy as that!
 

Paddy_g46

ClioSport Club Member
you don't need no stinkin' rev counter, just get it running :)

I have! I drove it around the 1-way system by the garage today and fook me its fast! :cool:


But....(there is always a but!) for some reason the gears are hard to change when driving, as if the clutch isn't disengaging properly when I put my foot completely down. I am guessing that as I am running soft pedal that the extra travel on the release arm means that it is not disengaging fully?

Did anyone else have this issue?



Patrick
 
I have! I drove it around the 1-way system by the garage today and fook me its fast! :cool:


But....(there is always a but!) for some reason the gears are hard to change when driving, as if the clutch isn't disengaging properly when I put my foot completely down. I am guessing that as I am running soft pedal that the extra travel on the release arm means that it is not disengaging fully?

Did anyone else have this issue?



Patrick

Congratulations :clap:

remember what I said about the plastic stop on the pedal box? That said it normally manifests itself when you're trying to put it in gear from stationary, if you're OK from a standstill you're probably OK.
 
I had to adjust the pedal ratchet/trim the pedal stop to stop the gears being stiff and get full clutch pedal travel
 

Paddy_g46

ClioSport Club Member
Congratulations :clap:

remember what I said about the plastic stop on the pedal box? That said it normally manifests itself when you're trying to put it in gear from stationary, if you're OK from a standstill you're probably OK.

Yeh it is when I am trying to get into first from stationary as well. IN general if just feels like it isnt opening enough.

Where can I find this pedal stop? I sit down on the floor where the pedal sits at its lowest on built into the mechanism somehow? I hope I can fix it tonight as I am bringing it home tonight!


Also how can I actually check if the coolant system is operating properly? I think it is filled up right now but not 100%.
 
Its a green plastic block clipped into the front of the clutch pedal mounting, you'l see it straight away.

Push the pedal down, take it out, let the pedal up slowly and you will hear the ratchet click a few times, let go of it completely then... Trim the green block on the flat side by a few mm, put it back in and press the pedal a few times and it may click some more to self-adjust. Try it then and see if its any better...
 
Also how can I actually check if the coolant system is operating properly? I think it is filled up right now but not 100%.

is your temp gauge working? I plugged the RS tuner into mine..

anyway, leave it idling, after a while the stat will open (85ish) and the rad will get warm, leave it idling longer and the fan will start. As long as the level in the header tank is OK you're sorted.
 

Paddy_g46

ClioSport Club Member
is your temp gauge working? I plugged the RS tuner into mine..

anyway, leave it idling, after a while the stat will open (85ish) and the rad will get warm, leave it idling longer and the fan will start. As long as the level in the header tank is OK you're sorted.

Yeh temp gauge is working fine. Ill give it a go tonight when I go to pick it up

Oh and PM'd.
 
  HBT 172 Cup
Everyone nicked the pullup resistor trick from me :(

Glag your cars running though, not long for mine either, F4R ftw.
 


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