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Copart BG 182

Hmm..its an enhanced vehicle. That means they did some repairs to it to look like this. Might be more damage than we can see
 
R3k1355 said:
The Buy It Now is at £2000, what are the chances the reserve price is similar?

No way is anyone with half a brain paying that kinda money for a ropey 182 from Copart.
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Some people go mental there. Seen some cat S cars being sold with more than a non cat car is being sold , similar mileage and spec.
 
Racky said:
Some people go mental there. Seen some cat S cars being sold with more than a non cat car is being sold , similar mileage and spec.
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Yea I've heard, their 'estimated retail value' isn't always very accurate either, so could be some bid way above what they should and get a nasty shock.

Have seen some people asking the most basic question on social media, get the feeling people with zero knowledge about cars or the motor trade are buying smashed up cars expecting to make quick and easy money.
 
I guess it’s a non runner to as dont state “runs and drives” or “engine start program” 👀
 
Copart sell an awfully large volumes of knackered cars to fill who export them elsewhere…the pricing on there lately is mind blowing when you compare to unsmashed variants.
 
R3k1355 said:
The Buy It Now is at £2000, what are the chances the reserve price is similar?

No way is anyone with half a brain paying that kinda money for a ropey 182 from Copart.
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Didnt pay that much more for mine and its in better condition and a runner! This would be a £500 car a few years ago.

Skintnancy said:
That 'sound deadening' just looks like trouble to me personally.

Pair that with the reputation Copart has had recently and its a big swerve
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What makes you say that? Genuine question, im about to sound deaden my car and dont see it as a particular issue.
 
dann2707 said:
Is copart s**t to buy from?

I'm looking at a clio dci on there for the Mrs which ends on Tuesday
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There are fee's to pay which need factoring in to any decision.
Been some horror stories, stuff gets damaged in the yard, parts stolen. They don't give a flying f**k.

You are buying salvage afterall, so don't forget it's on sale there for a reason.
 
SharpyClio said:
What makes you say that? Genuine question, im about to sound deaden my car and dont see it as a particular issue.
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If its something you're doing yourself, go for it!
Personally, I dont see the point but then again, my Clio was just an occasional car so sound deadening wasnt top priority ;)

I think that seeing something like sound deadening in the boot could just have been shoved there to hide something - like someone else said it could be boot creases from a rear impact. Also, something to consider, insulation is normally very absorbant. So if you have a small leak then that moisture is going to be held in the deadening and potentially can lead to issues later down the line.
 
Skintnancy said:
If its something you're doing yourself, go for it!
Personally, I dont see the point but then again, my Clio was just an occasional car so sound deadening wasnt top priority ;)

I think that seeing something like sound deadening in the boot could just have been shoved there to hide something - like someone else said it could be boot creases from a rear impact. Also, something to consider, insulation is normally very absorbant. So if you have a small leak then that moisture is going to be held in the deadening and potentially can lead to issues later down the line.
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Makes sense. I'm not going for 100% coverage, just trying to improve on what's there so the moisture point should have a reduced impact, just as its a daily for me id like to be a bit less tinny!
 
SharpyClio said:
Makes sense. I'm not going for 100% coverage, just trying to improve on what's there so the moisture point should have a reduced impact, just as its a daily for me id like to be a bit less tinny!
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I’m doing mine mate. Most of the modern sound deadening offerings are not a problem got moisture trapping. I’m smashing it down on the boot floor and inside the door cards. Not going overboard as mine isn’t a daily, in fact it’s hardly driven..but it no longer has rear
Seats so I’m conscious of booming. Plus I’m old.
 
DavidDave said:
I’m doing mine mate. Most of the modern sound deadening offerings are not a problem got moisture trapping. I’m smashing it down on the boot floor and inside the door cards. Not going overboard as mine isn’t a daily, in fact it’s hardly driven..but it no longer has rear
Seats so I’m conscious of booming. Plus I’m old.
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Im also old and quite deaf these days... but my daughter complains from time to time!
 
Hmm, just be careful Dan. The fees will be big, there is no guarantees. So if you come to collect and it stops working that’s down to you, there is no note as to the vendor. So I maybe a private entry (why) it maybe a cheap car, but I’ll wager it will be strong money once it leaves the gate.
 
Sticker codes:

Updated as the yard staff have newer app now - extra 4 damage shots ( if use them ) roof- spare wheel - parcel shelf, touch screen , sat nav , sd card etc

C - Trade car, normally private entries - Same as a insurance x-e-f car - same photos ( except trade has extra buyer notes )
Q - Copart trade car - extra images
X,E,F Normal insurance
P & N - extra insurance images - gear stick & radio , window buttons, drivers interior shot - all 4 wheels etc.

Only difference is trade cars should have buyer notes- IE has arm rests, car mats, iso fix, and a few other things - insurance cars now have a similar check list as well - ie what size wheels ,if steel or alloys etc
One for the guessers - Ice does not mean steal the radio - It means engineers report - hence why sometimes have a tick , star or line on the window - it's to let the other vde's know the car has already done reported on .

Also other windscreen codes:

R = received ie to tell the loader drivers and anyone else that the car has been imaged for auction
D = so called driver - ie can move under it's own power
S = starter ie due to damage or wheel , transmission fault won't go forward or backwards
N = non runner, it wouldn't start with a jump pack or engine stripped or damged so wouldn't have even tried to start it
MN= Mechanical damage
 
oh yea one more thing, the HPI can take a while to update, sometimes up to 6 months.

So you might buy it CAT U now, then find out a while later it's gone CAT N.
Not a problem if you're keeping it a while, but there's no point in paying strong money for a car that could well end up on paper as an insurance write-off.
 
R3k1355 said:
It's an 'X' car isn't it?

X on the end of the lot number (the one on the windscreen) designates it as insurance vehicle (I believe)
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You can see better than I can on my iphone then.

if it’s X then it should be an insurance loss, but this one is unrecorded. Bet it still goes for all the money
 
Most of the major warning have been pointed out above.

The other thing you have to think. It’s in there with fairly minor damage. I would budget for something engine related.

I do have an account but don’t really bid for other people. Tends to get your membership revoked.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
dann2707 said:

I was look at that one
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Here is your fee approx if it sold for £4000 - you'll also need to factor in membership of £100 to bid, then recovery. Fees are high, and non-negotiable.

1649674899607.png

I can tell you this is an insurance write off from an insurance company, expect it to be a categorised car (theyre probably just behind in adding it to the database), Cat statuses shown on copart are at the time of listing only. Dont expect it NOT to be catted.
I'm surprised thats been written off looking at the damage, I'd be concerned that there is something thats not obvious from the pics, i'd view something like that before buying.

Check the location, Westbury, I dont buy from there as its SO FAR AWAY up North, way too far. Costs a bomb to have it delivered and i'm not doing a 700-mile trip with a trailer. Thats a £300+ delivery to the midlands.
 
I could bid for it, but as I am obliged to buy and recover it if I win it, you'd have to send me your max bid + fees + recovery cost (ie the amount I would need to pay) to me before I would bid... so basically I would buy it with your funds. Anything else, forget it, I wouldnt expose myself to the risk.
 
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