bent my conrod

[Y100LAD]

on sat nite i drove through a puddle and my cup wouldnt start after cutting out.. im a mechanic so i new what the outcome was going to be... i removed the head tonite to find that number 2 conrod is bent.... the head is fine so ive just brought myself a new short motor.. wheres the best place and cheapest to buy....
1. headgasket set
2. timing belt kit
i can get them cheap through work but just woundered if you peeps new anywere cheaper?
thanks ad

 

[sideways danny]

I'd use genuine belts and head gasket personally. surely easier to just change the rod and fit some new shells though?

 

[ben_p]

serious? just one rod? ^

 

[ben_p]

btw the renult sell the belt kits, there not much more than a factors will cost.

the OE belt kit is gates btw

 

[Olly1.216v]

Just out of intrest how does going through a puddle bend a conrod?

Sorry to hear about this mate

 

[SBV116]

Just out of intrest how does going through a puddle bend a conrod?

Sorry to hear about this mate

Sucks water into the cylinder, you cant compress water when the piston rises, so it bends the rod!

 

[mini-valver]

I'd use genuine belts and head gasket personally. surely easier to just change the rod and fit some new shells though?

Bad practice to just change one rod as they're all balanced together. Why bother taking the bottom end to bits if he's got a new short motor? The head would have to come off anyway so it saves pissing about with keying the bore for new rings etc to go in. If you're doing it properly.....

 

[Peter.K]

Must have been a big puddle, or have you got a cold air feed in the fog light?

 

[gaz_5103]

it doesnt have to be a big puddle, or a CAF, this can happen to pretty much any car if you drive through puddles quick

 

[Peter.K]

it doesnt have to be a big puddle, or a CAF, this can happen to pretty much any car if you drive through puddles quick

It’s a good job it doesn’t rain much over here.

 

[sideways danny]

I'd use genuine belts and head gasket personally. surely easier to just change the rod and fit some new shells though?

Bad practice to just change one rod as they're all balanced together. Why bother taking the bottom end to bits if he's got a new short motor? The head would have to come off anyway so it saves pissing about with keying the bore for new rings etc to go in. If you're doing it properly.....

maybe if it was a race build.

You'd check all the rods anyway as one is known to have bent. Have YOU ever built a bottom end before?

 

[mini-valver]

Yes. Built my 1300 8v Nova engine, thanks.

So you're suggesting, remove all the rods, key all the bores, fit new shells, rings and big end bolts rather than just use a different bottom end?

 

[Y100LAD]

ive got a cold air feed in the bottom of my bumper... and hopefully my short motor will arrive tomorow. and then i can have fun on sat removing the broken lump and replacing with a new one.

 

[sideways danny]

Yes. Built my 1300 8v Nova engine. 106bhp, thanks.

So you're suggesting, remove all the rods, key all the bores, fit new shells, rings and big end bolts rather than just use a different bottom end?

do you have a point or just asking silly questions for the sake of it?

 

[mini-valver]

Yeah, read the thread. You made a stupid post, he's already got the bottom end.

 

[sideways danny]

Yeah, read the thread. You made a stupid post, he's already got the bottom end.

my sugestion was helpful, yours was nitpicking and arguementative for the sake of it, you can sell a bottom end complete as easy as buy one, and probably repair the original to a good standard for less (unless the new one was a real bargain)

 

[Christopher]

conrods at dawn, ladies.

ps. Hi Dave

 

[Y100LAD]

the bottom end was a bargain mate and i hate rebuildin bottom ends haha

 

[mini-valver]

It wasn't nitpicking at all!! It was factual.

How is pissing about with a bottom end, replacing rings, shells, one or more rod/s easier and cheaper than buying a second hand bottom end? Even a complete engine can be picked up for around £400. Sell the bits on and make your money back.

Then you contradict yourself about what you'd do anyway. "easier to change a rod and shells" then, "You'd check all the rods anyway". Can of worms if one's bent.

 

[sideways danny]

the bottom end was a bargain mate and i hate rebuildin bottom ends haha

fair play then enjoy it personally

 

[phoenix1]

my 172 runs standard air box with k&n element and runs at 148kw (199hp) and 168lbs ft of torque (shrick cams,182 d/pipe,sprts cat,magnex system,and fast chip remap(car weight at 1400kgs))

so why fit a water suction pipe under the bumper or in the fog lamp?

 

[mini-valver]

1400kgs? lol, wheres the 400 come form lad??

 

[sideways danny]

It wasn't nitpicking at all!! It was factual.

How is pissing about with a bottom end, replacing rings, shells, one or more rod/s easier and cheaper than buying a second hand bottom end? Even a complete engine can be picked up for around £400. Sell the bits on and make your money back.

Then you contradict yourself about what you'd do anyway. "easier to change a rod and shells" then, "You'd check all the rods anyway". Can of worms if one's bent.

didn't contradict myself, just made an outline suggestion, think it's fair to say I didn't need to do a nut and bolt run down of how to do the job completely as the OP said he's a mechanic.

 

[mini-valver]

No but you should know how much work is involved in prepping a bottom end. The labour costs far outweight the cost of a new bottom end. Parts arent massively expensive. Although I'm sure you have to buy a set of shells, a set of bolts etc

 

[phoenix1]

1400kgs? lol, wheres the 400 come form lad??

done with passanger and driver . full tank of fuel

 

[sideways danny]

labour cost = zero as it's DIY.

IF it really is just a rod and there's no piston or ring damage (assume this is so for the sake of arguement) all you'd need is a set of big end shells and a good rod (or how ever many are bent) If the pistons and rings are undamaged then there's no reason to replace them and no bore honing needed. I make that about £50 in parts on top of head gasket and headbolts which are being changed already. Remember though this is a REPAIR not a rebuild

 

[Y100LAD]

i didnt fit it there it was like that when i brought the car i wudnt of put it the personally....

 

[mini-valver]

labour cost = zero as it's DIY.

IF it really is just a rod and there's no piston or ring damage (assume this is so for the sake of arguement) all you'd need is a set of big end shells and a good rod (or how ever many are bent) If the pistons and rings are undamaged then there's no reason to replace them and no bore honing needed. I make that about £50 in parts on top of head gasket and headbolts which are being changed already. Remember though this is a REPAIR not a rebuild

Yeah but you need to take the piston and rod out, and you sure as s**t should'nt re-use piston rings!

 

[sideways danny]

labour cost = zero as it's DIY.

IF it really is just a rod and there's no piston or ring damage (assume this is so for the sake of arguement) all you'd need is a set of big end shells and a good rod (or how ever many are bent) If the pistons and rings are undamaged then there's no reason to replace them and no bore honing needed. I make that about £50 in parts on top of head gasket and headbolts which are being changed already. Remember though this is a REPAIR not a rebuild

Yeah but you need to take the piston and rod out, and you sure as s**t should'nt re-use piston rings!

Care to explain how they will be different just by being removed from the bore? It's not something I'd do for a customer I'll agree, but if there was no issue before and they are refitted without damage to the same bore with the same piston then there will be no difference WHATSOEVER and replacement would be just for the sake of spending money

 

[AndyT23]

Just out of intrest how does going through a puddle bend a conrod?

Sorry to hear about this mate

Sucks water into the cylinder, you cant compress water when the piston rises, so it bends the rod!

Hydrostatic lock.... Ouch, sorry to hear of your troubles.

A guy I used to work with had the same thing, he decided to claim on his insurance. It kept me entertained for about three weeks listening to his frantic negotiations on the phone over what the insurers would pay for and what they wouldn't. I told him it'd be cheaper and easier leaving them out of it but he wouldn't listen!

Hope your back on the road soon.

 

[mini-valver]

Yeah but you need to take the piston and rod out, and you sure as s**t should'nt re-use piston rings!

Care to explain how they will be different just by being removed from the bore? It's not something I'd do for a customer I'll agree, but if there was no issue before and they are refitted without damage to the same bore with the same piston then there will be no difference WHATSOEVER and replacement would be just for the sake of spending money

It's just bad practice if you ask me! I would'nt do it my own engine, but that's me.

 

[David Ramsey]

f**king hell he only asked where to get a cambelt and head gasket lol

 

[ditz]

nothing wrong with reusing pistons???
they dont magically shrink or expand just by pulling them from the bore
problems like that check the ring gaps before they go back in but other than that its fine.