Farting speakers

[drtroy]

Hi just sorting an upgrade and so far got:

sony bt 5000 headunit
inphase 6.5 component, rear parcel
Fli 900 4 channel

Sounds good but when you increase the base the speakers start to fart, I wondered is that because the boot doesnt create any back pressure? Am using the cross overs from inphase rather than the amp, so the amp is set to straight through. Connected the HU via RCA as well.

Many thanks

Also have a fli passive 12" sub coming, so hopefully that will give a nice base note.

 

[AlexG]

when you have a sub it means you can turn the bass down on the front speakers so you will get less distortion from them when they try to hit the low notes? wallop will be along soon i bet

 

[Mark One]

basically your destroying the speakers.
It's what speakers do when you push too much power through them. Turn the bass down and get a sub if you need it that loud.

 

[Tigger]

Sub & Amp will do the trick!

 

[wallop]

Hi just sorting an upgrade and so far got:

sony bt 5000 headunit
inphase 6.5 component, rear parcel
Fli 900 4 channel

Sounds good but when you increase the base the speakers start to fart, I wondered is that because the boot doesnt create any back pressure? Am using the cross overs from inphase rather than the amp, so the amp is set to straight through. Connected the HU via RCA as well.

Many thanks

Also have a fli passive 12" sub coming, so hopefully that will give a nice base note.

Hi mate, most component speakers are designed to be used in conjunction with a sub, those that are to be used without a sub should be installed in a particular fashion that will offer higher cone control at higher input power levels....

You mention the boot area not offering any such support, so I assume these components are mounted in the shelf area??? If they are then you could, (or rather should if fitting a sub), construct an enclosure below the shelf to offer the component mids some protection from the pressure waves your future sub will produce.....constructing this enclosure will offer a higher level of cone control and so permit higher input power to be used, (at present your mids are running as they would IB so power handling is compromised).....

There is also the possibility that your amp settings are causing the issue, even without the use of a sub, components should be driven high passed.....I would start at approx 80hz and adjust downward till distortion becomes evident, then lift upward again to a point where no distortion or farting is evident.....

Putting even low power through a speaker below the frequency its designed to play at can cause ill effects, you should remember lower freq's require higher power & incur higher cone excursion limits....

Suppose the simple answer your looking for is;
Installation coupled with amp settings is your problem.....

when you have a sub it means you can turn the bass down on the front speakers so you will get less distortion from them when they try to hit the low notes? wallop will be along soon i bet

^^^Pretty much spot on^^^

basically your destroying the speakers.
It's what speakers do when you push too much power through them. Turn the bass down and get a sub if you need it that loud.

^^^Again, pretty much spot on, too much cone excursion with not enough enclosure damping^^^

Sub & Amp will do the trick!

^^^Spot on again, just remember though, that pressure waves from your sub will act on unprotected mid cones.....possible premature voice coil damage could result^^^

Just what is your final install going to be or contain???

1, Fronts----????
2, Rears----????
3, Sub----????

4, Amp driving fronts----????
5, Amp driving rears----????
6, Amp driving sub/subs----????

Or maybe your sticking with a 4ch amp, which should really be used to drive front components and rear ch's bridged for your planned sub, (rear comps driven direct from head unit to supply low volume rear fill).....

 

[drtroy]

Thats really helpful cheers, basically I was going to use the 4ch amp to drive the rears that are shelf mounted and use a bridge to power the sub. Im not aiming for creme da la creme system but something that sounds really good for everyday use. Its costed in at £360 which I think it pretty good.
I didnt realise the components would be midrange so it makes sense to run them at high range, but because I was using the cross overs supplied I thought that they would sort the sound and leave the amp as pass through rather than using the amp cross over.
Would it more advisable to not use the supplied cross over and put the midrange straight to the amp and use the integrated cross over or would you use a combination of the two, that bit foxes me abit.....

Ive done nothing with the fronts as of yet, I was going to check the forums and change them but power them off the head unit....? or maybe not bother with the fronts, at all??

After finished I was going to build a mdf enclosure for the amp so it would sit snug next to the sub rather than build one the full width of the boot.

cheers for the responses

 

[wallop]

Ok, now I'm beginning to see where your coming from....For best results I would be inclined to go with;

Uprated front components driven from the amps front channels....
Uprated rear coaxials driven from head unit for rear fill....
Suitable sub driven from the amps bridged rear channels....

Have a read of THIS THREAD , it includes some info you may find useful.....Including basic amp setup.....

By opting for an amplified rear stage, you will notice that as you drive with the window open, faster = quieter, thats because the through rush of air will effectively compress and hold the sound in the rear of the car, not good.....Far more logical to have the output up front with the main listener....

 

[Tigger]

Or maybe your sticking with a 4ch amp, which should really be used to drive front components and rear ch's bridged for your planned sub, (rear comps driven direct from head unit to supply low volume rear fill).....

^ That's how my first install was set up, wouldn't of had it any other way... until I upgraded lol