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What should my car rev to ???
- Thread starter focrs
- Start date
2.2 bar shed.
Oh my f**king word. Have some mechanical sympathy. I thought I had no sympathy giving my gearbox/clutch hell but this takes it to the next level.
Ok then mate explain. what you mean
2.2 bar shed.
Oils thicker when its cold. Its lubricating properties are much less. You rev the tits off it when its cold the oil wont lubricate properly, damages bearing surfaces over time, etc etc etc.
Cheers for that mate as i am an engineer that is right just from start. Oil heats up very quick as you will know i am sure??. But then explain why it wont rev? Then as asked is there something ie a temp sensor that wont let it rev over this below a set temp car was run for a fair bit before tested. Could there be a problem with it. Also as you read it i never said it was cold but said i will get it really warm.
That ant far off mine was your car standard map?
When i bought the car i was told it has been camed from the guy i bought it off it has a very lumpy idle also. but the guy could not tell me the profile. i am going to get it stripped down in the next few weeks and check it all out and get a map for the car. i have all the gaskets and belts here now it's just getting time to do it. It was the first i had the used the car in the 2 months since buying it and thought there was something wrong.
Ph1 172
lol you're and engineer, you're stripping the car down and working on it... and you dont know that its not acceptable to rev the tits of a cold car? dear god, no wonder there are so many 2nd hand heaps about.
Rusty Cup
your car will take alot longer than 8 miles to warm up fully, the temp gauge on the dash shows water temp not oil temp. I would say drive it for 30mins and then if it wont hit 7200rpm in third then somethings not right.
The oil can take aaages to get up to temp especially when there is 0degC air rushing through the radiator.. (which I'm guessing it is, in Glasgow).
Even though the water temp is correct, it doesn't mean the oil is too.
I'm not sure if the setpoint for the limiter runs from coolant or oil temp but there are loads of threads on this. Use the search button.
Even though the water temp is correct, it doesn't mean the oil is too.
I'm not sure if the setpoint for the limiter runs from coolant or oil temp but there are loads of threads on this. Use the search button.
Rusty Cup
What gives you the impression he doesnt know what hes doing?? so much negativity on CS im sure everything will be just fine 
5th?
182FF
In terms of your car running lumpy regardless of the rev limit, when the other guy fitted/had the cams fitted the timing would need to be adjusted as it clearly wouldn't be the same settings used as when standard cams are in place, if that is wrong then the car will certainly run lumpy. Also you need to have a look at what else is on the car because if the car is running high lift cams and letting more fuel in when the valves lift higher, it will need spark plugs that give a bigger bang and will also need a fuel pump/pressure valve capable of delivering the additional fuel and pressure. So if it hasn't got performance sparks (iridium minimum) a higher performance fuel pump and pressure valve then the car will probably not run vey well. Once you've sorted those things out consider getting a performance exhaust if you haven't already to get rid of the extra exhaust from the extra fuel being burnt and THEN go get your remap. Should be good after that.
If your car won't rev over 6500rpm the ECU is running the conservative map pre programmed by renault to protect the engine from impatient people revving the engine high which leads to engine damage when cold. When the oil is at the correct temp which is detected by the oil temp sensor that runs to the ECU, the ECU then switches to the normal map which has the increased rev limit as it is safe to do so when the oil has reached the correct temp. Hope this helps.
If your car won't rev over 6500rpm the ECU is running the conservative map pre programmed by renault to protect the engine from impatient people revving the engine high which leads to engine damage when cold. When the oil is at the correct temp which is detected by the oil temp sensor that runs to the ECU, the ECU then switches to the normal map which has the increased rev limit as it is safe to do so when the oil has reached the correct temp. Hope this helps.
^maybe true for other cars but not for the clios
fuel pump - stock is fine upto 240bhp
FPR - is in the tank and doesn't need an ajustable one
cam timing - unless he has deleted VVT then you use stock timing setup
plugs - stock are fine, iridium are a waste of cash
i'd suggest you start by changing the coolant temp sensor and have the cam timing checked by a renault specialist
stock rev limit is 7200rpm, if its only reving to 6500 its "normally" the coolant sensor at fault
with a map you're safe upto 7800rpm
fuel pump - stock is fine upto 240bhp
FPR - is in the tank and doesn't need an ajustable one
cam timing - unless he has deleted VVT then you use stock timing setup
plugs - stock are fine, iridium are a waste of cash
i'd suggest you start by changing the coolant temp sensor and have the cam timing checked by a renault specialist
stock rev limit is 7200rpm, if its only reving to 6500 its "normally" the coolant sensor at fault
with a map you're safe upto 7800rpm
182FF
As you said with most cars it is the case, an uprated fuel pump and uprated pressure release valve (not necessarily adjustable) would help in this situation regardless of the capability of the standard components. Iridium plugs would also be beneficial and not a waste of cash if looking to optimise the smoothness of the engine. Getting the cam timing checked is definitely a good place to start before going straight to the cost of a remap.
