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http://www.g-shinwa.co.jp/renault/news/20020617_2/index.htmlhttp://www.g-shinwa.co.jp/renault/news/20020617_2/index.html

Try this, better and cheaper than Mobil1 http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=19http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=19

LOL!!!! Sounds more like a poof farting if you ask me!!!! WoooooOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooo........

Isnt Reno bringing out the Phase 3 (180BHP) to compete with the new Pug 206 (also 180BHP)? If you are going to order a new Clio Id wait till the new one comes out, has twin exhaust, new wheels and minor facelift! OH, and dont forget the extra 8BHP

Vipers - Great looking expensive sponges with a nice carbon cover! Thats it! GO FOR BMC!!!

why use road tyres, get a set of ADVAN 048Rs, sticks like sh*t to a blanket!!!

Great pen!!! Thats what I have alway been looking for ... LOL

whats there to see???

sorry not HKS, but a Ys Corporation (Jap specialize in reno mods) http://www.yscorporation.co.jp/top.htmlhttp://www.yscorporation.co.jp/top.html

lol, if it is not making a slurp then its not working as it should, which also means that its just sitting in your engine doing nothing because the valve is closed... as for better accelleration and "smoother engine braking", well Ill like to see you prove that against a 172 without a ecotek...

agree with bambam, I did this ages ago and the sound was horrific, had to buy a new HU and everything was sorted... not worth the hassle

Out of the 2 I d go for K&N, had a green induction kit before and after about 2 months its shape was warped by the heat, now I use a Jap induction kit with stainless steel mesh and its great! oh and you dont even need to oil it!

Stupac, I have owned the GT4 about 11 years ago when they first came out, very sexy car and lots of mods available, if you can get the Group A Rally (Carlos Sainz Version) even better as it has a water to air intercooler instead of the air to air, as for the VR6, my girlfriend is driving me old...

Another thing about the Ecotek, it doesnt affect the actual brakes but does affect engine braking, its is felt mostly on manual cars as you down shift or let your foot off the acclerator (espically in high revs) and takes a bit of getting used to! The car doesnt slow down and feels like it...

I dont see what the big fuss is about, If you think the stupid thing works, go ahead and buy one (why listen to people who have used it before and dis it?). Im sure there are plenty of 2nd hand Ecoteks around... got rid of mine on ebay!

Hi, I am in Hong Kong and have exactly the same problem (knocking noise under acceleration in first gear) and reno service said to me its a design fault which cannot be fixed!!! Anyway Ive heard from others it could be a few different things. 1 The top monts on your front shocks need replacing...

Hey, mines doing that too, any ideas what it might be? Ive heard it could either be the downpipe hitting the steering rack or the lower arm bushes / engine mounts have had it...

piece of crap and not worth spending your money on, and yes it does make a stupid noise that sounds like a poof farting.

yellow tops dont fit on clio 172s, you need an orange top where the connectors are swapped.

for a whole set its reasonable..

will do that tonite, do you want me to send you the pics? If so, what is your email add?

where are those made Fred? looks good

which garage Ben? Reno? By the way, still have to get the knocking noise fixed, took it in last time and nothing was done (really need you there to get things done)... all the boys did was fill the top of my struts with red grease!!! Not happy:@

yeah, I thought about that when I installed my amp and sub box, have a fused splitter box so I can do the swap and use the thick power cable Im running back from the battery in the boot to the engine bay... wish me luck!

A BIT??? Sticks out like a sore thumb!

same here, what a load of sh*t!!!

good excuse to take out those fogs and connect up some hoses to your brakes!!!

already done that too!

Ah.... But there is a huge gain in space at the engine bay, I will fit an air box (Jap ARC one) where the battery was with cold hoses from the front:devilish:

So do I need to run another wire (negative) from the engine bay to the battery? Or is it ok to just bolt the earth onto the chassis?:confused: