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Is be checking the pump has power, Earth and CAN where needed firstly.

Granny shifting and not double clutching like ya should eh? Deffo sounds like it needs a clutch Dom.

What is this "you p**n"? I am not aware of it lol

Apple store fo'sho! Demand can't be that high on these TBH and I didn't even get the launch email until this morning.

Won't be the flywheel Ash, it'll be something stupid as already suggested.

Washer pumps are controlled by a relay external to the UCH IIRC and can be found on the back of the UCH itself. I'd bet it'll be a corrosion issue in a multiple somewhere though so you'll either have to pull it to pieces yourself to find it or pay someone to do it for you. Mick EDIT - Just...

That needs looking at chap (I know... obviously). It'll be either wiring or ECU related though Mick

It's not "text book" but it sounds like a crank sensor issue. Easiest way to confirm it would be to scope the signal when it's misbehaving but I doubt you'll have access to that kind of kit. You could try diagnostics but the crank sensors rarely give a code when they're faulty.

I've just put my order in for a 64Gb but won't get it until Monday 2nd Nov. I wasn't really fussed about it until recently but the wife has given me permission to bang a big f**k off TV on the wall and sort out the houses media properly. I like the idea of Apps because some of them are geared...

Timing issue then chap - plugs out, pin the crank and insert the camshaft setting bar... I bet you can't get it in.

What was the reading with the engine off? It should be stable at around 1013/1014Mb

"Sometimes" as in when it's about to stall?

Yeah, i've replaced a few of them (on the same lunatics cars) and they aren't cheap but it's better than having the brake pedal go solid. Mick

What about the MAP Sensor? Have you checked its data stream to see if the value is stable/probable (Eg. is it reporting a correct "Atmospheric" reading when the engine isn't running Vs showing vac when it is... is it reporting anything at all?)? No, this is why we normally advise a live data...

Welcome to the "Cup" club

Sounds like a misfire - You sure you have the leads on correctly?

Yeah, done loads and it is a fairly easy task. You will need the drivers wheel off to give better access to the servo end of the pipe which you will see once the wheel is off and the rear arch liner is out of the way. Then you just pull it off and route it correctly around the brake pipes and...

Well really, the best place to start would've been a reliable diagnostic session but you're a bit past that now lol. Most likely problem you have here is either an Injection issue (poor injector or injectors) or possibly a supply pressure fault. Then there's the good old fashioned "your timing...

Samsung has a decent warranty? Err, disagree strongly! I found my Note 4 did this and it was down to Googles location services running in background. It was always majorly noticeable when using Google Maps. Check your service preferences and see if it kills the battery drain.

Press clutch pedal - Noise gone? Sounds like a water pump failure to me though

The Cam sensor lives in the top of the engine/cam cover and so is supposed to get covered in oil. The car should also start without the Cam Position Sensor so I suspect you may see this issue again chap.

UPC is a good shout but you really ought to have it plugged in to CLIP to check the switch status Vs UCH interpretation of the switch position as it could be a stalk/link cable fault also. UPC's aren't coded but they're not cheap either so better to spend a little and know rather than guess IMO...

It could be the short "injection" loom fault yes. This is easy enough to check for with a visual on the loom but a new one is like £180 so i'd just replace it if you suspect this to be the issue. There is also a fairly common issue with the Marelli ECU's which causes this issue do to an internal...

Actually, replacing the physical pump isn't that bad once you take the PAS and coolant reservoir out the way then remove the sound deadening material from the bulkhead... Just be careful not to round any of the fixings when removing them and when refitting, ensure they all go in by finger first...

I remember when you used to be fat

You'll never be able to please everyone with a single date chap so just pick one. End of the month normally works as the CS ballers have all been paid and those that can will make it. I'd be up for it though. Mick

@Andyrg@ ClioTurbo is normally on the case with these.

If the boost pipe has been off then chances are, the turbo has been over spooling its tits off, which *may* have contributed towards its demise. Mileage isn't anything on one of these so if there aren't any other issues, I'd refurb the turbo and carry on.

Yeah, probably the boost pipe and oil is going everywhere because (chances are) your turbo is leaking oil and the IC pipe seal isn't great. The hissing noise also sounds like a boost leak. Are any of the hard pipes damaged at all?

Oil pipe... to the intercooler? The intercooler reduces the charge temps of air flowing in to the engine and doesn't have any oil feeds. Are you sure you don't mean they've connected up the boost pipes to the intercooler again?