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I went down the route of separate sensors for those two. Accelerometer (3 axis so just lat acc, no yaw) in front of gear stick and a string potentiometer around the steering column. I'm logging at a higher frequency and resampling to 5Hz to get rid of noise. It meant no disassembly, no risk of...

Absolutely, probably, depends. Need to decide what sample rate & ideally what electrical format the sensor outputs. Analogue & digital square wave/PWM are doable. If it’s a digital message you’re screwed, fit a dedicated analogue/digital sensor in parallel. You can get some EPAS related values...

Totally doable at home. Don’t even need wheels off strictly speaking, could just use ramps but as with anything ARB related both sides of the suspension do need to be at the same height when installing or you’ll be fighting the ARB. 15 mins or 2 hours all depends whether the bracket to beam...

Captive bolts for rear beam. There’s a third one on each side, possibly just out of shot or behind the trim.

Forget main spring length, it's got nothing to do with this and therefore won't solve your problem. Given that you have ruled out all of the other options (higher ride height, BC-style damper with separate height adjustment, softer main spring) the only way to solve this is a helper spring with...

Did you ever work out if 20 or 35 was lb/inch or N/mm? 35 N/mm is genuinely about the right ballpark for a non-sport main spring lol. If 35 is N/mm and the helper has say 70mm travel then that’s 35*70/9.81=250kg (of sprung mass) to compress the helper fully. So basically as soon as you get any...

Metric helper springs are really difficult to find. You might have more luck searching for a "tender spring" instead. In theory they have two completely different purposes but between brands there's no consistency on what rates/lengths helpers finish and tenders start. If I were you I'd also...

Just noticed you said B16 (PMS?) not B14. I’m guessing they have pretty serious spring rates which, with a relatively low sprung mass, would mean very little precompression of the main spring when the car is on the ground. In this case the reduced total spring rate in rebound that I’m banging...

Assuming you’re ruling out just raising the ride height a bit, a helper spring with a longer free length is 100% the “correct” answer as this is exactly what they are designed for. Longer helpers won’t loose you any rebound travel. You’ll need to lower the spring seat a bit to maintain your...

Download MSI afterburner, absolutely invaluable for this sort of stuff. Log CPU & GPU temps/utilisation/clock frequency/memory usage, FPS, GPU power/voltage limit. First check for obvious albeit unlikely issues (temps, VRAM leak) then make sure that the 1% lows don't correspond with the GPU core...

Look on the bright side, £2k would’ve bought you a GT 1030 last October!

Yes, all cars need/have spacers. Sometimes they stick to the back of the disc when it's removed, so it's all too common/easy to accidentally throw them out with the old discs. You can buy reproduction spacers from KAM Racing, for example.

Can’t remember what it’s for on the standard car, but somewhere in the passenger footwell, up high towards the base of the windscreen and outboard there’s an open grommet that is traditionally used for aftermarket amps. However, battery in boot, bulkhead adapter, or walking everywhere are all...

That'll be what I'm thinking of then...

Aren’t the rear arches ever so slightly wider on the renaultsport shells too? Or am I imagining this?

You haven't pulled the locking tab out far enough. It moves about 3cm in total.

Should have a little hook shape tool thingy stored next to the locking wheel bolt key in the packaging for the emergency jack.

If they spent less time taking irrelevant photos of what could frankly be anyone’s PC and more time building it…

Did you get alignment checkedafter you took the suspension apart and drilled random holes, with the best intention, by eye. You can setup a clio with too much toe to the point where it looks fine and still drives in a straight line if symmetrical, but as soon you steer you’ll have one wheel...

Bought one from a Renault main dealer last week. 7701470567 fit a cup pack driveshaft fine. Make sure you mark/measure the position of the old one. They’re really sensitive to being pushed on too far or not far enough. edit: and it was only £45+VAT

https://cliosport.net/threads/obd-scanner-tool-app-and-abs-sensors-182.836857/#post-12051754 This turned out alright. Stand by everything I said but would emphasise the cons are mostly one-time-only e.g. setup or an unknown DTC whereas most of the pros apply 24/7 e.g fast, lack of disconnects...

Carbon canister 100% Green/black and orange/black.

Yes, lots! CAN to 12v analogue, CAN to PWM etc. Do you know what format Gen90 pin 55 output is? Come to think of it, if it’s the same controller (is it? I don’t know) where does a DCI get it’s RPM signal from?

Funny how you find useful snippets in random threads. For something completely unrelated to EPAS I’m taking vehicle speed from an AC wheel speed sensor then using a voltage divider & capacitors to get it down to a 5v DC signal… so this violet wire sounds promising. Ditto, I’m using ECU pin 1...

Ah I see, so you need to measure some displacement with a known torsional stiffness to calculate torque applied… So if you beef up the torsion bar without changing the sensor then the torque sensor will under read and presumably give less assistance. Which presumably you can counter by winding...

Where is this torsion bar? Primary function of a column is to transmit torque from hand wheel to pinion. Makes sense & is common to have damping (typically with a rubber isolator) but makes no sense to nerf stiffness (which is what a torsion bar would do). I have a looped HPAS rack (4x...

Fairly sure I prefer the feel of HPAS, though I haven't driven the same car on same tyres/suspension/etc back to back. EPAS makes the car more reliable (one less thing to go wrong), easier to work on, lighter & more powerful. Wouldn't bother on a road car, but if it's a pure track/race car...

My computer is upstairs and I am downstairs. Can you make it 20% please because I have to travel?

have you wound the rear piston back into the calliper to account for the new pads being thicker? Easily done with a flat bar or the long thin bit of a big screwdriver.

There’s a seemingly-needless interim part/clip that goes onto the end of the connector so that it stays in place once plugged into the alternator. I bet you’re missing that. The same plug is used elsewhere, so you’ll be able to steal it off of another loom. VVT solenoid and/or carbon canister...