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Thanks Dan .. been a bit quiet as I’ve been mad busy with work and organising everything for the racing this year.. hoping to keep up the updates

This is no real easy way to measure it.. I’ve modelled the front end in CAD though, so can work out the standard geo, then move the top mount and tell you what it would work out at. [emoji1360] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isn’t it just!!.. don’t have to have any knowledge to write about anything... caster angle/ mechanical trail is the other factor in steering feel/weight... like scrub radius but looking side on to the car

Yeah we have been working out our fuel consumption at most race tracks last year.. by knowing how much fuel we put in.. how many laps we did and then pumping the tank out after the sessions as you said.. just have to account for warm up lap and driving to grid, and cool down lap..... but if it’s...

All you’ve written is correct mate.. that 2nd pic is terrible!

ECU Master ADU is where it’s at!.. that’s what I’ll be upgrading too .. pricey but the functionality is awesome!

That’s just what I was thinking [emoji6]

Each to their own.. I’ll carry on using the self coloured bolts for suspension fixings[emoji1360]

True, OEMs only use 10.9s, but thats mainly because they have to cater for prologued life at very high temps or sub zero temperatures.. and yes they use a type of zinc coating.. where I’ve worked it’s always been a Zinc-flake technology tho, which does not incur any risk of hydrogen...

I should have shares in the stuff .. love it

I tend to steer away from any off the shelf zinc coated bolts for any highly loaded bolts.. they are normally not de-embrittled, which leads to the Zincing process reducing the grade of the fixing.. Hence why no OEM or top end Motorsport team use them

No, there’s no issues with cutting the bolts down, common practice. Just chop the end off with a splitting disc and re add the chamfer with a flap disc [emoji1360] Yeah the bolt you have is fully threaded, you can get partially threaded ones too.. like I said you can do either way.. as you’ve...

Looking really good.. appreciate the attention to detail [emoji1360] .. good to see it all coming together now.. To answer your question; I ordered them at 50mm so they were partially threaded, with the shank length I wanted.. this meant the purple shank section would locate the Caliper...

haha, yeah 100%.. also fitting a new clutch and release bearing at the same time

looks nice... my favourite colour! good look with everything.

We’ve bought ourselves an early Christmas present. a nice TTV lightweight flywheel came up at a great price so couldn’t say no! TTV weight 3.2kg Std weight 5.3kg Not to pull the box out again to fit it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah it is cool!. just had a go on the simulator, like you said the undulations are amazing, proper 'park' type circuit. cant wait now!... that would be good, defo pop over for a brew and a chat

Yeah exactly!, you never know what can happen; contact is the other risk too!.. We have a few options in case we need to get a couple more signatures though. Have fun at Spa!, another track I need to tick off We’ve just used a simple modular fuse/relay box from auto electric supplies...

Hi mate.. the weight used is with lightest driver and the power is measured at the wheels , so we’ll just be at the top of class C

Excited to announce @Jenbo and I have now registered for the 2019 Trackday Championship (TDC) .. here’s a summary we’ve put together about the championship! Now to get prepared and smash next season!.. might have to do a few other races too to make sure we can get enough signatures to upgrade...

Hi Steve, as you read, its a fully bespoke system with a reduced throw (enabled by moving the pivot point, and extensive mods to the tunnel area) but the end position is so worth it.. sitting so far back with a higher shifter is so nice! I am working on a more customer friendly version which I...

Haha!.. I’m always open to new friends [emoji23]

Hi mate.. yeah we have run a cable from the battery to the main fuse (175amp) then from the main fuse to the kill switch, then on to the starter motor and alternator.. the cable size is 25mm2 rated at 170amps.. this rating is constant and can manage a higher spike.. that’s when the main fuse...

As if I wasn’t busy enough with the Clio, I’ve decided to help a mate out who’s bought a part finished Peugeot 205 Rally car project.. there are a lot of bits to fix and finish I popped over to pick it up and bring it to the garage Great motor, pulled from his last rally car (Peugeot 306...

Defo do pop over and say hi.. I’ll be throwing some updates on here leading up to it, to remind everyone haha

We’ve entered the Trackday Championship (TDC) It’s 30-minute qualifying 45-minute races Mandatory 2-minute pitstop for driver change (can have 1 driver cars tho) They have just announced the provisional calendar The TBC round looks to be Zandvoort again Will do, haven’t been for a while...

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F143016575556 Something like this .. you could cable tie the wire to the damper, just need to make sure it’s away from the wheel/tyre .. those brackets are the neater solution

Hi mate!, thanks for reading through, been keeping an eye on yours too [emoji1362] .. Yeah it really was a good year, managed to do everything we set out to do and more. Car performed great.. we mainly wanted to learn the tracks and the car before we’re surrounded by cars fighting for the same...

Hi there... thanks, it’s been a long build but enjoyed every minute!.. Your right the dash is like a Christmas tree now!, we only use it for the Rev counter and fuel level really, so not an issue for track only.. plan is to replace the dash with a digital stand alone dash when we race next...

Hi mate, the ports closest to the servo for the front brakes.. ports closest to the engine for the rear brakes