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Getting into those triangular cavities is near impossible too, I resorted to a less than ideal liberal coat of hydrate 80 and dynax. Hope for the best and look back at it next spring with eyes half closed.

Theres no stalling problems, it runs fine when I drive it, its sorn at the moment though. I have thought about an isolator but I just want it to work as it should, I'll try your idea tomorrow Rob.

I've just fitted a brand new Renault alternator as the last one began smoking. I dont use it much so 120mA is enough to mean its flat when I come to. Definitely something up with something running off that fuse

Correction, its interior lights and radio I think. Fuse 29

Today seemed like a good day to stand out in the cold testing the parasitic drain, so I connected my multimeter inline with the battery before opening the passenger door, heres what I found. The fuse on the mA setting has blown so used Amps and straight away I was getting 0.08Amps (80...

Painful process, especially when you do it for a second time in as many years hey @RustyMojo 😉 Looking back I would have spent more time on the fuel flap area on mine, It might be an idea to cut out add a second layer from behind the fuel flap, filling the edges with seam sealer to strengthen it?

62 month old thread, OP no longer a member either I'm afraid

Thanks @jenic I've spent the afternoon looking into it, anything bigger than 43" just wont work with the layout of the room unfortunately. I think I've decided on a Samsung TU7100 43", anything will be better than the current 32", and possibly a Sony HT G700 although the bar is fractionally...

I need help, I know nothing about TVs really but want to upgrade a puny 32" samsung, due to space etc a 43" is as big as I can and want to go. I've looked at a Bravia XH80 or 81 but wondered about saving a bit on the TV to spend on a soundbar so I can get rid of my dated Denon separate system...

It's looking pretty worn and tired at the joints though, I know I could get it off and have it welded. It's the freezing up of some cash that appeals

I've done the man maths, selling it leaves enough left over to buy a ktec and a bushes and wishbone refresh! 😉

It's a tough one, go cheap ebay generic or Ktec sports cat. One way of looking at it is as @R3k1355 says, if yours is genuine you should get most of the price of the ktec sports cat for it. The worry for me would be that neither get you through the mot in a few years time, that said your cat is...

First of all Yes to an Elan Valley drive out next spring! I think the rust along the rear box sections on a 182 are a lot easier to treat than on a 172 due to the lack of a spare wheel well. I've considered cutting mine out just to get access to the lipped area tight up against the well on the...

Yeah when you get a delayed creak, quite disturbing!

Nothing like the unnerving sound of subframe bolts cracking through the grain of a piece of softwood. It's what I mostly use, that or a square if 18mm ply

I think the jack will still cut through or exert too much pressure on the coating Russ

I had my beam powdercoated, I agree with Rob in that it's terrible for chipping. Obviously make sure all mating faces are bare metal but the issue I had was when mounting the rear hubs, the contact area that the bolt head sits on, all the powdercoat shattered around this area when torquing up...

It looks damn tidy in the flesh except the usual fuel flap. I've done literally 30 miles in mine since I saw you! Still planning to plug away with it and hopefully get some paintwork done. Wishbones, tie rods and bushes in the new year I think.

What's the verdict Russ, cleaner underneath than you expected? Is it a better bet than The Resurrection part 1?

I bought mine in early 2012 from you

I bought my 182 from Steve when he was a trader on here, I probably paid top dollar for it but it was a real cracker and exactly as described so I was happy with that and I'd so the same again. In fact I'd love to roll back time and do it all again, I'll never forget the feeling of finally...

If you lift the rear seats up you can pull the rear carpets up and carefully remove the sound deadening pad from underneath, that will be holding most of the water and can be dried out of the car.

If it's the door seal it's an easy job to be honest, just get 8mm diameter butyl tape/rope off Ebay.

@Touring_Rob dont paint it, it will look better with something like solution finish on it

Not so easy on my sloping drive! I cringe putting mine on axle stands, I always check wheels/leave in gear etc for added security. I'd be happy with that bay, mines not awful but the engine has stayed in meaning some bits just aren't accessible. I should have put the effort into a clean...

I've just caught up with this, it's done two things- 1. Made me really unhappy with my engine bay. 2. Given me a bit of motivation to get stuck into it again.

I used small stainless washers as well, form b or c, can remember

I bet it isn't the problem, is your car normally left facing up hill or down? Is the drivers front footwell or the spare wheel well damp at all? A leak from the scuttle area can run through to the rear seat footwells or the grommets on the boot shuts can leak and run under the rear seats down...

@Cliocup182! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-Stainless-Steel-Allen-Screw-Button-Head-Bolts-Nyloc-Nuts-Washers-/150775424749?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292...

Oh I meant nylocks