Rust Proofing

[JGrant]

I’m looking into rust proofing my 172 cup soon and am after some advice.

What’s the best protection to use?

What are the common rust points on these that I’ll need to protect?

Thanks

 

[Gally]

One. Contact a local rust proofing place for a price. Make sure that is all they do. Like preserve and protect in Scotland.

Or, Bilt Hamber products. Ignore the rest.

 

[RustyMojo]

I’m currently going through my car repairing all the early or developed areas of rust. If people don’t jump on this now there will be plenty of Ph2 cars coming off the road soon! Areas I have found so far:
1) sills - Jacking points are made of cheese and over the years unsympathetic jacking sees many of these bent and out of shape. However this creates a crap trap and you’ll find plenty of rust that needs sorting as a result. Also where the front wing attaches for the sill. Again crap gets stuck and eventually rust appears.

2) front bumper brackets. Both of my clios had this, the brackets on their own seem to poorly finished from the factory! I can see this being a real problem for people in a few years if they don’t treat now

3) fuel filler cap- Renault in their wisdom used a single thin skin of metal on the outter wing to hold the filler flap in place. The filler flap hinge gets sticky over time and the greater force required to open it flex’s the area, weakening paint and rust forms on the front side. However the back side of this area also gets an absolute kicking as mud, stones and general crap get flung like a shot blaster into the cavity around the filler neck! Which makes the petrol filler neck a particularly nasty place for rust.

4) Wheel arches - again some problems occurring usually around poorly covered spot welds, suspension turrets and where arch liner clips sit. Also the front brake hose brackets. When you start digging you quickly see there are several areas which just over time salt, mud and rubbing from use wear away the factory protection.

5) underside - messy job this, but the rear underside of these cars is a problem, I suspect many owners don’t know how much of a problem this is likely to be in the future. The box section abs suspension platforms have cavities built in from new, the rear beam attachment plates rust, but this seems to spread to the boot floor. Also whilst you are there have a look around the fuel tank. As some of the corrosion seems to spread underneath.

6) rear wheel arches - stupid lip from the factory! Catches crap. Rust forms on the inner edge.

7) inner sills - old favourite drop the rear door cards and have a look.

That’s as far as I have gotten at the moment.

I hear so many people say ‘car is rust free’ I would’ve said the same about mine, however they rarely are in my experience. I’d certainly get someone to look at it before I had the chassis and cavity covered in protection.

 

[ajracer]

Echo what Rusty has said.
It all depends on how long you are going to keep the car and how handy you are to treat some of the worst areas yourself.
I’ve just received a quote from South west Rust Proofing for a full Dinitrol treatment and it was £700!

 

[botfch]

Unfortunately as already pointed out unless the cars had a charmed life so far the rust has probably already set in and will require removal and repaint.

Other than those mentioned, brake servos, rear brake bias bracket and where the abs pump sits are all spots for rust.

 

[JGrant]

I’m currently going through my car repairing all the early or developed areas of rust. If people don’t jump on this now there will be plenty of Ph2 cars coming off the road soon! Areas I have found so far:
1) sills - Jacking points are made of cheese and over the years unsympathetic jacking sees many of these bent and out of shape. However this creates a crap trap and you’ll find plenty of rust that needs sorting as a result. Also where the front wing attaches for the sill. Again crap gets stuck and eventually rust appears.

2) front bumper brackets. Both of my clios had this, the brackets on their own seem to poorly finished from the factory! I can see this being a real problem for people in a few years if they don’t treat now

3) fuel filler cap- Renault in their wisdom used a single thin skin of metal on the outter wing to hold the filler flap in place. The filler flap hinge gets sticky over time and the greater force required to open it flex’s the area, weakening paint and rust forms on the front side. However the back side of this area also gets an absolute kicking as mud, stones and general crap get flung like a shot blaster into the cavity around the filler neck! Which makes the petrol filler neck a particularly nasty place for rust.

4) Wheel arches - again some problems occurring usually around poorly covered spot welds, suspension turrets and where arch liner clips sit. Also the front brake hose brackets. When you start digging you quickly see there are several areas which just over time salt, mud and rubbing from use wear away the factory protection.

5) underside - messy job this, but the rear underside of these cars is a problem, I suspect many owners don’t know how much of a problem this is likely to be in the future. The box section abs suspension platforms have cavities built in from new, the rear beam attachment plates rust, but this seems to spread to the boot floor. Also whilst you are there have a look around the fuel tank. As some of the corrosion seems to spread underneath.

6) rear wheel arches - stupid lip from the factory! Catches crap. Rust forms on the inner edge.

7) inner sills - old favourite drop the rear door cards and have a look.

That’s as far as I have gotten at the moment.

I hear so many people say ‘car is rust free’ I would’ve said the same about mine, however they rarely are in my experience. I’d certainly get someone to look at it before I had the chassis and cavity covered in protection.

This is very helpful, many thanks!

 

[JGrant]

I plan on keeping the car for the foreseeable future so I want to go over it properly and tackle all areas.

From what I’ve read so far it looks like I’ll be using Bilt & Hamber or Dinitrol products. I do have some clear waxoyl lying around so I might use that for spraying into the cavities.

 

[RustyMojo]

I would spend a couple of hours with the car in the dry with a good screw driver and an inspection light. Take the wheels off and have a good poke with the wheels off. The cars are just the age where these things can be saved. Another couple of years and it will get very pricey. Don’t be disheartened if you find localised rusting. Just scrape it all back treat and move on.

 

[JGrant]

I would spend a couple of hours with the car in the dry with a good screw driver and an inspection light. Take the wheels off and have a good poke with the wheels off. The cars are just the age where these things can be saved. Another couple of years and it will get very pricey. Don’t be disheartened if you find localised rusting. Just scrape it all back treat and move on.

Will post some pics on here once I’ve had a good look at it 👍

 

[RustyMojo]

Will post some pics on here once I’ve had a good look at it 👍

Please do mate, it always spurs me on when I’m picking rust out of my ears and eyes to know I’m not the only one trying to preserve one of these s**t boxes

 

[botfch]

Please do mate, it always spurs me on when I’m picking rust out of my ears and eyes to know I’m not the only one trying to preserve one of these s**t boxes

Why not join me in the god tier restoration... 😂

 

[RustyMojo]

s**t balls! I am tempted. Just nowhere to store the parts off the car whilst I did the work. Be a proper labour of love and would save me lying under the car with an angle grinder just above my nose

 

[JGrant]

Had a bit of time today to check around the rear arches, filler cap and take the rear door cards off and inspect the inner sills. Need to give it a clean yet but looks good from what I can see so far. It also looks as if someone has sprayed some cavity wax around the inner seals which is good to know but these will be redone with a more generous amount.

Will post some more pics in the next few days of the other areas.

 

[ajracer]

Looks very clean. You have good one there.

 

[RustyMojo]

It’s gone on the filler cap mate that bubbling will need sorting

 

[RustyMojo]

Your rear arches look like they need some more looking at as well mate. Like I said before drop the arch liners and have a good prod. If it were me I would remove the skirts and have a proper good look

 

[JGrant]

It’s gone on the filler cap mate that bubbling will need sorting View attachment 1512943

Well spotted, didn’t notice that. Will take a better look at that.

Your rear arches look like they need some more looking at as well mate. Like I said before drop the arch liners and have a good prod. If it were me I would remove the skirts and have a proper good look

The areas I took pictures of were the worst bits so not too bad but I will have a better look at the car once I give it a deep clean and get it in the garage. Will take skirts, arch liners and bumpers off and have a poke around. Once I’ve assessed the condition I’ll then start protecting.

 

[RustyMojo]

I got an eye for it now mate, I am currently sorting all this out on my second 182. Trying to sort all this out over the winter. But it’s constant!

 

[DomP182]

Painful process, especially when you do it for a second time in as many years hey @RustyMojo 😉

Looking back I would have spent more time on the fuel flap area on mine, It might be an idea to cut out add a second layer from behind the fuel flap, filling the edges with seam sealer to strengthen it?

 

[JGrant]

I got an eye for it now mate, I am currently sorting all this out on my second 182. Trying to sort all this out over the winter. But it’s constant!

Same here mate, I got the car early November and haven’t really driven it a great deal since as I’ve wanted to get it protected before it sees the roads again

 

[Robbie Corbett]

That looks well tidy.

From my experience you need to have a look under the car in front of the rear spring mounts there is a cavity. IMO that is the worst spot on these, close second is the filler cap (have a good look behind with liner removed), then front bumper mounts then sills.

The rest is just ugly but not especially harmful to the car (brake servo, rear brake line/hand brake bracket etc).

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Why not join me in the god tier restoration... 😂

Good on you.... why the hell are you doing this to a Clio though

Also, where did you buy the rotisserie from.... looks nice!

 

[Robbie Corbett]

One. Contact a local rust proofing place for a price. Make sure that is all they do. Like preserve and protect in Scotland.

Or, Bilt Hamber products. Ignore the rest.

I would do that for a new car, but not something 10+ years old. No way Johny with his Bilt Hamber cap on is going to spend 10+ hours grinding all the rust out before coating it. I've spend a ridiculous amount of time in the past stripping protection off a car which is been sent to a specialist for protecting, just so I could repair any rust properly before re-protecting.

I would fecking love to buy a brand new car, strip it down and coat everything. I recon you could make something which started out rust free last for ever. Like if you bought a brand new 182 etc. and even just waxoiled the problem areas before any salt got near I bet it would still be perfect 15 years later.

 

[Gally]

Hence my first suggestion. They do it for you.

 

[DomP182]

That looks well tidy.

From my experience you need to have a look under the car in front of the rear spring mounts there is a cavity. IMO that is the worst spot on these, close second is the filler cap (have a good look behind with liner removed), then front bumper mounts then sills.

The rest is just ugly but not especially harmful to the car (brake servo, rear brake line/hand brake bracket etc).

Getting into those triangular cavities is near impossible too, I resorted to a less than ideal liberal coat of hydrate 80 and dynax. Hope for the best and look back at it next spring with eyes half closed.

 

[botfch]

Good on you.... why the hell are you doing this to a Clio though

Also, where did you buy the rotisserie from.... looks nice!

Cheaper than a Porsche or Alfa gt junior.
Plus It’s the driving experience I keep going back to and imo a future icon.

Guy called Ade Foreman engineering on Facebook & eBay.
Nice chap working out of a small workshop in Telford.

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Cheaper than a Porsche or Alfa gt junior.
Plus It’s the driving experience I keep going back to and imo a future icon.

Guy called Ade Foreman engineering on Facebook & eBay.
Nice chap working out of a small workshop in Telford.

Was it bad enough to warrant the full strip down? Or are you aiming to make it better than factory etc. Off to search for a project thread if one exists!

I've only ever gone down to a totally striped shell when floors or inner sills need replacing.

 

[botfch]

Was it bad enough to warrant the full strip down? Or are you aiming to make it better than factory etc. Off to search for a project thread if one exists!

I've only ever gone down to a totally striped shell when floors or inner sills need replacing.

Rust wise no.
but I’m getting it resprayed because every panel needs paint and after discussions with the body shop.
I’ve decided do it once and get it right rather than constant repairs as and when stuff appears.

 

[lemonnobby]

I've just done a full underside resto on a trophy for a customer and there were early signs of rust in a lot of places. Front and Rear chassis leg and the rear spring mounts fuel flap and both sills.

 

[DaveL485]

When you root out the rust, clean it up then coat it with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80, then Bonda rust primer, then paint and then Gravitex underseal. If you apply the gravitex with an air gun you get a good thick coat with a nice finish.

 

[DickP]

They also rust between the fuel tank and body on the driver side, up high so essentially beneath the rear seat but above what you can easily access. I think to properly resolve would require dropping the tank.

My theory is that in another five years, the cars will best be dismantled into the major components to then go over the bodyshell fully. I think it's a process of slowing / managing ongoing corrosion for the interim now.

However the bodyshells appear very rust resistant generally given they are now minimum 16 years old.

 

[DickP]

I have just found the topic where I discussed the rust traps and other's provided their input as well: https://cliosport.net/threads/clio-172-182-hidden-rust-traps.832217/

 

[Akay]

Surprised the sideskirts havent been mentioned. Majority are still rivetted on, drill the rivets out and inspect the rear portion, and around the jacking points. Mine appeared ok on the inside but was going outside and perforated in some areas.

 

[RustyMojo]

Surprised the sideskirts havent been mentioned. Majority are still rivetted on, drill the rivets out and inspect the rear portion, and around the jacking points. Mine appeared ok on the inside but was going outside and perforated in some areas.

I mentioned the sills earlier, but having just sorted mine I completely agree

 

[conor1n]

Stripping mine down at the moment and I find this.... I don't think would have been spotted with arch liner in place.

There is a damp spot right under it. I'm not 100% if it has started leaking yet though, or if it's from elsewhere.

 

[Jason473]

They also rust between the fuel tank and body on the driver side, up high so essentially beneath the rear seat but above what you can easily access.

Can confirm. Well hidden by the tank so would suggest removing and treating if planning on keeping the car for a while.

The red oxide coated areas conveniently highlight where i found surface rust on mine!

 

[Superwoman90]

Posts like this are what make the forum so practical and informative for novices like myself.

 

[JGrant]

The red oxide coated areas conveniently highlight where i found surface rust on mine!

That’s very handy to see, thanks!