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I’ve changed a roof skin before (after rolling at craners !) It’s not that difficult but the windscreen needs to come out. Then it’s just a case of drilling all the spot welds all round. I bought a complete shell for £50. Removed the roof skin from that and then scrapped the rest. Sent from my...

The J&R code for the cup shaft is DS21 so I don't think you have a cup one. Drive shaft lengths are a minefield though. Do you run a diff? Length is even more critical if you do.

I have run 205s on the front and 195s on the rear on my race car in the past. Obviously better traction with 205s. On the road I doubt you’d notice any difference. BUT Toyo T1Rs are truly awful tires and if you can I’d change those and just get a matching set. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even the cup setup has a place for the pas pump. Pure Motorsport do a pulley wheel to replace the pump so you can run the same belt. Alternatively you may be able to just use a shorter belt but you’d need to check that. I know it works with the non cup alternator bracket but not sure about the...

Yes I could see it was the barrel. Very disappointing as I’ve been waiting for a decent AP option to come along for 15inch wheels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is AP news isn’t good. I’ve been ordering these from Nick this week although he’s out of stock of the discs at the moment. I run both ultraleggeras and 1.2s so I really need these to fit. I hope the 18mm spacers will help but I’d better speak to Nick first. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can connect via CanBus so you may need to see if there is an adapter for the Aim. Certainly you could swap the solo out for an Aim dash which would certainly work. Gems may be able to help you who make the Gen90 for ktec Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what I was thinking too!

There’s a few of us on here been racing for a few years. Always good to welcome a new racer! A wealth of knowledge on here too ready to be exploited. Good luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you’ve removed that one then you definitely need an inline fuse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you’re not changing the existing fuses in the engine bay then everything will still be protected by them. If not then I run a 100amp in-line fuse in mine but then I don’t have any other fuses in the car, only a pdm which protects the individual circuits. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I assumed you had coil overs or lowering springs. If those are standard springs I’d suggest they’re broken. If someone has fitted lowering springs before you owned it, have a look and see if there’s an adjusting ring on the lower spring perch. You may be able to raise it that way. Someone else...

3 options really. Raise it slightly. It does look quite low, raising should also help with better turn in. Fit some shims to increase neg camber. This will almost certainly cure it. And 3, roll the arches. Any combination of the above of one option doesn’t work. Sent from my iPhone using...

Could try Harlow Jap Autos. A guy I race with has the largest Uk collection of Skylines among other cars and swears by them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep that’s it. It won’t be coming from the low pressure side to the reservoir. But if it’s wet around the driveshaft area it won’t be pump either Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a he a leak from one of the joints on the rack but it was only after having a pipe replaced. They’re a bugger to get to! More likely as someone else has said, a seal on the rack itself. More investigation needed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pipe normally and most commonly from around the pressure sensor just by the alternator. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was going to say the same Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I suppose they might be out of stock.

Yes the Valeo coil pack is the go-to replacement now. You can still get oem leads though. At least you could a few months ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If your losing bolts from this it might explain the oil on that end of your engine. However, it wouldn't have been touched during the belt change.

Been on in my office in the background today. Loved the rally stage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That could be it then! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can see a few in this picture Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are several on that end of the engine. If it’s not water pump it could be the casting around the bottom pulley which also has those types of bolts. None should ever come loose though and are going to be very difficult to get to without quite a bit of stripping down. You may need to remove...

I'm led to believe that skimming these heads is not a good idea. I think that's confirmed it!

I use a lightweight pulley on my Cup alternator. Don't forget that the light weight pulley is also a larger diameter to lower the current draw so you may need a slightly longer belt than that.

Yep, pretty sure they're American too. UNC thread probably

Yep Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes they are. Obviously not the 4 door version but it sounds like you know that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk