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I wouldn’t know for certain but there’s a good chance. The F4R design is just about the worst for a high revving engine. Because of the stroke, on full chat the pistons move up and down the bore faster than an F1 engine! (Can’t remember the figures but it’s ridiculous) no wonder they like to let...
Beware of skimming the head though. As these engines are interference engines valve to piston clearance is tight. If you want a higher compression ratio buy pistons designed for that purpose which are profiled accordingly.
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I use King Race bearings and have found them to be good.
Yes, I would stay away from Wossner pistons if you can although they are an affordable way to get the compression up.
I use JE pistons but they are made to order in the states.
pure motorsport head is a nice bit of kit but if you’re only...
Supertech valves and springs are the easiest upgrade.
Change valve stem seals while you’re at it.
Rod bolts and Megane bottom pulley and you should have a pretty safe engine.
And obviously make sure the timing is done properly when it all goes back together.
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Yes I’d say just pretty badly made. There’s some old footage floating around on the internet of a Renault factory with a technician bending a door in all directions and hammering the catch with a mallet to get it to fit! So with those sort of tolerances and probably some variation in the rolling...
Although ITBs sound awesome, if you’re keeping the rest of the engine standard you won’t see any significant gain in power really. Maybe a small improvement but for the cost it’s questionable whether it’s worth it.
If it’s a 172 then changing to the 182 manifold will help.
And if you can stretch...
I think it was these guys
https://www.carbodypanels4u.co.uk/renault/clio/renault-clio-3-door-hatchback-2006-2009-campus/rear-quarter-panel-up-to-window-15475
Main terminal on starter will be shorting on one of the studs. It’s quite common. You’ll see one of the studs is quite long and when the “L” shaped terminal is done right up it touches.
It’s very difficult to see once fitted but I’ve been there twice before!
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With a proper spot weld drill bit it’s very easy.
I’ve replaced the roof and a rear quarter this way and removed numerous brackets from the car.
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Advancing the inlet slightly isn't that bad. Very unlikely to cause the symptoms you are experiencing so I'd persevere with the air leak theory. Good luck!
The high idle I think possibly points to an air leak. However, I'd also look at the coil pack and leads. Genuine leads are prone to breaking when they are taken on and off multiple times.
I’ve got one over each headlight on brackets pointing inwards at fuel rail and two on the firewall each side over the brake fluid reservoir and beside the expansion tank.
Then inside the car I have another 4, all pointing into the foot wells
Can take a few pics if it helps.
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It’s one of many little things you can do to grab 1 or 2 extra bhp. As you know, unless you are rebuilding the engine and having the bottom end dynamically balanced you should keep the harmonic bottom pulley, but no harm in changing the others.
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Bumper is now finished barring some stickers that need to go on.
Wrapping it was an interesting exercise and took a lot longer than expected. I'm happy with the finish though, with a new lip fitted plus the refreshed brake ducts. Not perfect but good enough for a race car.
I've got...