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Could you send your .cal and engine spec? I can possibly get it checked for you

I like this! It’ll probably be fairly obvious when I have them side by side.. thanks mate! totally overlooked the fact the water pump setups are different. It only struck me once I’d striped the block! 🙄

Few things to think about, the main one being the reposition of pulleys on the timing belt, as using the 182 head on the 197 block.. if anyone has done similar feel free to share. Also alternator, AC pump setup… will be all the 197/225 bracket, alternator tensioner. But thinking about the AC...

Unfortunately the JC5 089 had enough of 360lbft of torque (wimp) any way it’s salvageable with a new end casing which cracked and a 5th gear set which is in serious need of the dentist…. anyway, Project NDO is on the way.. to do it right I’m going to be putting all of my Meg 265 internal parts...

😂 what tl4 is it then? Duster?

I have an NDO sat there already, what would you rate the best between TL4 and NDO?

Could you send me a link if possible?

Hi guys, I don’t suppose anyone has any mocked up driveshafts from doing the Megane box into a Clio 182 I could send away and get made to save myself some time as I’m trying to get everything sorted quickly and shafts will be the last thing to get measured up once the engine and box are in, will...

The rpm signal activates the computer, What’s it read when stopped? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have all the ESP turned off?

Ah fair! [emoji23][emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone follow the Beanboltshow on FB gaming, no hacks and can wield a Kar with iron sights well. Awesome player Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The pinion inside the rack is a 2 piece pinion with a torsion bar which allows flex as you say.. the EPAS column also has something similar inside so you need to pin or weld the pinion in the rack. pinning is preferable but welding also works.. the problem with welding is it can warp the pinion...

https://cliosport.net/threads/epas-fault-help.841005/page-2#post-12219065

I can get any diagrams needed, i work for Renault, give me a reminder tomorrow and I’ll post them up.. defo the way to go though, my steering feels absolutely OEM now, so glad I went through it and worked it out! think I need a refund on the BTT controller kit to be honest!

It uses the RPM signal to engage.. so when the engine isn’t running the steering computer won’t operate.. this isn’t essential and with the little box tricking it it works all the time with just the ignition on. but the main reason is the different assistance maps within the steering computer...

Good point!! More than likely the crank sensor? They are basically the same across the Renault rage. So probably a 12v square wave? Same from my pin55 possibly, I don’t know with out a scope

I wondered if there is any kind of CAN to RPM interfaces out there? I’d imagine so? edit.. https://www.canm8.com/can-bus-interfaces/rpm-pulse-interfaces/canm8-rpm.html

Nice, you have the connectors, looks like they cut the loom a bit short, but should be okay.. yes as above. switched live - feed from the ESP switch is nice and close, earth… big power feed from the battery. I put a hefty bulkhead terminal on mine pin 15 to diagnostics port pin 7 - not needed...

Yeah the one to the dash is a CAN signal, so no good. I didn’t get to look at the pin outs of the standard ECU.. but as long as you can see the correct RPM in the steering computer 👌 also, I have a spare steering computer and plugs so could pin you up the connector so you don’t need a...

yeah, I found the ratio of the quick rack messed with the system too much.. that’s defo the limitation of the MK2 EPAS but using standard rack ratio should work fine.

First of all what ECU do you have mate?

Yup, serves a purpose to activate the motor and maybe for some people that’s okay… but it seems most people are very underwhelmed by it, and actually it seems a lot of misconceptions about EPAS having less fell than HPAS have formed because of it whic totally understandable if you’ve had to suck...

All working perfectly now, I’ve put the standard rack and pinion back in and pinned the pinion to eliminate the torsion bar which causes wondering steering with EPAS. The steering now feels lovely and light stationary and slow speed then automatically lowers assistance as you go faster...

So now I have RPM signal and speed signal.. steering feels much lighter parallel parking, and I believe that now the RPM signal is there the computer can calculate the correct assistance MAP level according to speed. I’m yet to be able to give it a good test as the roads are horrendously...

Worth having a good crack at working it out I’d say, if I get a good result I’ll share whatever I’ve done Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pin 7 on the OBD port to pin 15 on the controller… really simple it’ll then communicate to any good code reader. I need to do some more tests and get the RPM signal in which sounds quite easy using the Gen90, unfortunately the RPM to the dash is CAN signal so not straightforward. I can also...