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Hi guys, Recently installed my Bilstein B14 kit which I'm so so pleased about, did a trackday couple of days ago and really liked how the car behaved. I currently run Nankangs NS2R's in 205/45 16 size and was wondering if going next level on the tyres - AR1's, R888's and the likes- would be too...

It's a daily driven car, I'm not a fan of slammed cars especially on bad roads, oversized speed bumps etc. Plus if I run it that low on the rear I'll have to lower it on the front as well and it will scrub on the arches, hit the bump stops. Been there done that 10 years ago.

Hi, I'm about to fit a set of b14's and noticed that the rear spring adjustment collars have no lock in place screw. Don't they move out of position while driving?

I haven't spoke to Gaz, I know they're very nice and helpful but I recently bought the B14s so fingers crossed I'll get rid of all the noises. I also noticed that on firmer settings the noises kinda faded on the rear, but even on 6 clicks or so the car is too bouncy even on decent roads.

Change the cables and then see if it works. I had the same problem and one of the cables was chewed by corrosion. I did them both and it sorted it

I have bought a set of b14's and have some k-tec solid mounts (the older golden type). Any advice on how to mount them? I already got myself some 22mm ID washers if needed, anything else? Thx!

So, any news on this? I am on my second set of GAZ GHA coilovers and they have always made knocking noises, front and rear. The rear on mine doesn't sound like yours, It's not tik tik tik like you have but rather a deeper knocking noise over bumps- still drives me mad. Also on the front it looks...

A friend has them on for 6 years and they look spot on. True that the car stays in an undergroung garage but anyway it's daily driven, well looked after though

Use coilover socks for the fronts and the rears might benefit a coat of ACF50 even if they're painted

7 year mega bump! I'm running about 1,5 deg negative on the front for years, rest of the car is on std geo settings. On the last trackday I felt like it could use more camber on the front. I mainly use the car on the road, was thinking if going to 2 deg negative would impact tyre wear too much...

For future questions about this- The cup hubs also have oversized bearings vs non cup. For spirited driving i think this is the best reason to opt for them- durability. My 182 has 115 k miles and still with the original front bearings

What about for a LHD car ? I might need one myself in the future. Is it still available as an OEM part from Renault? Thx! Absolutely lovely thread mate!

Well this thing was waiting to be done for TOO LONG. I have my 182 since 2006 and the wheel was melting since day 2 basically so after soooo long... this must be on of the best things you can do to enjoy your ride:

Moving the strut towards the rear will loose just a very very small margin of wheel base. I would do that first to gain caster as clios like to rub on the front part of the arch liner anyway 😀

Adding caster means that either you move the top mounts towards the rear of the car or/and moving the wheels forward via lower arms mods, in which case you will gain wheelbase not lose it right?

little thread bump But how is the camber adjustment working on the b14? My gaz coilies also have an elongated hole up top but this is paired to a bolt that has an excentric washer welded onto it that rests on lump on the plates, so rotating the bolt causes the camber to change. How does that...

I am begining to think the gaz is at fault here too but I remember whaen I fitted my first kit in 2010 it kinda wasn't that bad. Now it's like the whole underside of the car has the bolts loose and it's falling apart. But if it's that bad, how come so many have it? I heard some other complains...

Couple of years later, new rear gaz shocks, refurbished front ones, new rear beam bushes, new bearings in the front solid mounts, front lower arm bushes look OK, same the anti roll bar bushes. Refurbished front and rear calipers, and carriers, new discs and pads and the suspension still rattles...

I'm tempted to try and change the seals myself. Is there a guide on this? I never worked on the AC system so far so don't wanna mess smth up! Thx!

For the climate control panel I just replaced it with another one. Some cars came out with panels without the sticky stuff and with the writings cast into the buttons instead of painted onto them so now they will not fade off or scrap! Found the panel cheap at a breakers yard and bought it...

Sort it. The new calipers were utter crap. Bought second hand Bosch originals, rebuild them with new sliders and pistons and now the hand brake is stronger than ever. Advice: careful when buying aftermarket rear calipers! Especially if they are something like Kamoka or other cheap brand..

Update: Fitted the TRW cables with 1450/1378mm stated lengths and they fit just nice. But.... Go figure with brand new cables the handbrake is absolutely useless. If the car is stopped and I pull in the lever like an animal it barely stands still sort of.. But if I pull hard while moving even at...

p.s: here's the description of the Firstline FKB3048 found on ebay: Item specifics Condition: New Brand: First Line Manufacturer Part Number: FKB3048 MPN: FKB3048 EAN: 5038068438485 Type: Cable, parking brake Function: Cable, parking brake Length 1: 1450 mm Reference OE/OEM Number: A.B.S...

Hi, I have to replace my cables also (especially the rear right one) and am curious about a few things: There are two numbers around here for the cabe lenghts: 1480 and 1420mm But I have a guy working at a large online store and asked him to verify this for me and he came up with these 2 OE...

I have a similar problem. Have you fixed yours?

Measure the thickness of your hubs where they join the plates and see from there. Maybe someone has some 172 hubs to measure and compare

17 years mega bump! Hopefully now everybody's aware that a rear pad with 5mm of material on is far from worn out, they start at around 7-8mm thick new so.. Renault used to trick you into buying new pads for no reason - tricked me the first time too..

Ok so I sorted mine out couple of moments ago. The problem with the missaligned motor shaft still persisted no matter how much I played with the climate panel temp buttons, it was basically 180 degrees out of sync. So, according to what someone said here about the gears in the motor assembly...

Will do, as it's the only thing I can try right now 😁

I think I tried this but it's only moving in that particular range shown in the left figure above