Search results

little story here: after a couple of weeks of literally asking EVERYONE about the mistique 197 crank (ok I didn't ask the Queen, Mr Trump or Kim Jong) I have decided to end the misery of my car being torn apart for 3 months now and just get the bloody replacement crank available (not the meg 3...

that could be an option but I think it would end up pretty costly for a part that is used. mind you that theoretically I can get a new item at 400 quid or so. which is in theory still available..

When did you get it? Looks like there's a chance Renault has stopped making these 😔

aaaaannnnd, would you fancy selling it? :D

ok that's not encouraging at all :(( I have a ph1 172 crank from a friend but the builder says the 1st choice should always be a new crank, you can't really see defects in the metal in older items. that above is the ph1 used crank. if i'd be 100 percent sure it has no hidden flaws i'd get it...

No only the crank hopefully! Not very keen to wait for other 197 items that's for sure! 😂 The car will be a street/occasional track day vehicle so nothing extreme, I just want it to run properly and reliable that's it. Plus the rods are "the solid ones" as the builder said, similar or the same...

The other side 👍 As for my crank-I had the sump off last autumn for a gasket change and new crank seal and the guy that did the work said that he saw some axial play in the crank so he replaced the thrust bearings. It's just that he happened to put one of them flipped around so it damaged the...

Left new crank design right my OE crank. Notice the counterweights. And the 197 crank above which is very similar and the main reason for wanting it. Looks stronger too (it's also heavier)

^exactly! It's just that the 197 is harder to find and I've been waiting for it for 2 and a half months now.. That's why I'm looking for alternatives but this new one looks like it's not that good of a design. But if it's forged at least it's worth looking at.

Of course but now I have the choice between the replacement crank in the photos above or the 197 crank which many say it is forged and very close to the 182 crank in design-similar counterweights arrangement and weight and basically at the same price as the one above but harder to find.

Well forged are supposed to be stronger and if I have the engine in pieces and spend a small fortune rebuilding it then a forged item may be the one I want 👍

But are they cast or not? This new replacement one looks forged..

Hi there, I'm currently on the hunt for a new crank and stumped on this let's say mistery. I was said by someone that many cranks in the 1*2 line are cast iron items and that a better option would be the 197 crank which is forged. Ok so I started to dig up on this and found some particularities...

Ok so it looks like it will go closer to 2k to rebuild the engine. One thing I'm curious about is the crankshaft tolerances. The guys that will do the build say that on most engines they did so far required a new crank. Are they that bad over time? Isn't there a way of rectifying a crank? New...

Also, any alternative to engine assembly lube? can't fine anything in stock these days so will have to improvise!

Hi everyone! In a couple of days I'll get the car to a mechanic and will help him rebuilding my engine. So to make things simpler I'd like to write down the essential torque settings and pattern like main crank bearings, con rods, head bolts, pulley bolts, sump, flywheel etc. So please feel...

Some interesting info, thx!

I am rebuilding the engine anyway. Rings, head, bearings all of it. These questions I have are just for understanding some principles. Like what a good compression test should look like and how are those numbers calculated.

ah ok then! I was just stunned by some prices I have found in several places :)

I don't know how fair is to bring this up but seeing the UK prices for these kits lately had me thinking.. For example a cambelt kit together with dephaser pulley and the two cylinder head end caps is 400 quid on a known website. In my country (I am based in Bucharest, Romania) for some years (I...

Hey there just found this explanation online which seems pretty logic to me: "The easiest way to find the compression pressure of an engine is to just look at the compression ratio. Then take the compression ratio and multiply it by the current air pressure (it is typically 14.7 psi at 1...

Thanks for that info!

yeah I know but was curious how the air passes through the valve seals to let you know they are bad? I just want to understand what happens down there :)

Now I'm trying to understand what happens when you do a compression test. Following this basic video: The compression happens at 0:29 and in that case if the rings are bad the air will go between them and the piston wall right? Ok so what if the rings are fine, and you have bad valve seals...

Well the previous owner had the car for a year in which it did 20 000 km (me being the second owner as I said) so he basically only did one oil change as the car was new (car is 2005 I bought it in 2006) so how bad could it get in only one year?.. Even stranger is that I had a custom remap done...

Should I repeat the test then? Fact is that it drinks 1 liter of oil every 1000km so somth is wrong there

The guy also poured a little bit of oil on top of the pistons and it did the compression test once again. I believe this is called a "wet" test. His conclusion was that oil escapes through rings and valve seals also. Oddly enough the car runs fine by my standards and also compared to others...

I have done a compression test yesterday, the car is a 182 with standard inlet, the guy just removed the inlet, took off the plugs and then one by one tested each cylinder, but without disconnecting the injectors. The readings were in bars not psi, he said that a healthy engine should read 11...

Well it's a 182 already. I would definitely run a stand alone ecu and at some point maybe cams like 421's but nothing extreme. Power figures are not that important to me, if I'd get closer to the 200bhp mark it would be enough. It's the usability and reliability that concerns me the most.

Since owning the car I always said that the only major mod to the engine that I'd do would be throttle bodies. I think they just suit the car better than going the force induction route plus the mad sound etc. What I'm not sure is whether they will still allow the car to pass MOT if you keep...