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Great stuff, its looking good! Should make some good hp with the higher compression from the 197 pistons.

Instead of starting a new thread i thought i'd ask here: I'm after an oil pump and will modify the pressure relief valve as well. Having said that has anyone used the Pierberg oil pump below or should just go genuine renault? https://spareto.com/products/pierburg-oil-pump/7-07919-00-0

Big thread dig here: but over the last few years do we know anymore about the 197 crank weight combination with 197 rods and pistons in a 182 long block for higher rpm reliability etc?

Hey @Mack182 How is the build coming along?

What shims did you use in the end ? Also are the 197 balances one piece or two much like 182 valves?

Looking great!

Great background info on their strength. How much is Allen selling them for?

Is it worth £500~ though ? Contemplating it

I have a Yozza cat back with a welded in PMS centre resonator, the best of both worlds to be honest. No drone and quiet cruising about and then when i put the foot down, it is distinctively Yozza and loud.

yeah I recall Being high. These is a smaller capacity Renault 1.8 with had a square bore and stroke and forged crank perfect for higher rpm, combine that in a f4r case with forged pistons and custom length rods and it would be good.

Forgot they were an interference engine. In terms of stroke were the 1.8lt Renault engines with forged crank a square design suitable for higher rpm than the f4r?

Are the 197 cams timed with group n timing gear better than a set of catcam 428s ?

So is it worth doing 197 piston and rods alongside skimming head and lots of porting with supertech valves and springs and catcam 421 or 197 cams?

For anyone who does not know the spec is as follows: The engine spec is as follows: 12.5:1 Compression ratio, 82.7mm bore (83.0mm option) 93mm stroke 1998cc displacement (2012cc with 83.0mm bore) 240bhp output 185lbft torque And you get the following: The kit includes: ACL or King racing...

Its 4.6k to buy the kit and then assemble yourself to save some coin, not bad for a DIY'er

Good to hear, how has that process been having that engine built by PMS and will what other ancillary changes have you made to the car?

Any thoughts on the Sachs paddle clutch, whats take up on it like in stop start conditions?

Purely based on a PMS240 spec build though. PMS 240 spec quotes 240bhp~ with exhaust headers and ITB, they are with 20bhp~ on their own combined I’m guessing. But yes with current bore and stroke and untouched heads, no way.

Do exactly that, get a spare engine, build it with Higher comp, deck and port the heads, new valves and springs with cams. Balance it all and aim for 220hp+ on matched inlets with DBW on a OE ecu mapped to suit?

I guess the idea is to maximise power on the matches inlets that you have with high compression pistons, ported heads and cams to match where and how you want power delivered in an n/a setup. No ITB in sight and retain all factory bits you want too.

How about a high compression engine build such as a PMS240 with the matched inlet manifold and a retune on the factory ecu?

Pure Motorsport 240 engine, anyone here running the engine? If so what’s your experience of the built engine or the parts to piece it together yourself? Also what other ancillary parts have you matched it to and results?

Had them delivered, same number of splines and same drive diameter, so will work. Will probably leave them and not zinc coat them up. Though i'm sure they would be fine otherwise.

Can anyone co form whether the drive flange is suitable for zinc coating as it’s an interference fit for bearing?

Go sequential

Hi guys, what would you recommend for 330bhp the 4 paddle Or full face Sachs competition clutch kit from PMS?

Oh and if you go NA, go ITB but go stand alone management with something that has a strategy for TPS and MAP sensor to give you the resolution to tune across both parameters for on road light load applications. Its all in the tuning strategy to get a setup right for the road and not the track.

Looking great ! i was going to say just add a diffuser for more downforce and it will look the part too.

Have to a agree that the PMS shifter on a daily is terrible! However for a weekend b road blast, its near perfection when your flat on it and punching through corners.

Very well said, this was always my perception of 1 series cars. You would have to modify aspects of the car to take it beyond and into the realm of proper hot hatch or M class territory.