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Definitely keep it as it is Mark. My favourite RS of all time! Much envy 🙌

I'd try and get a Direnza one if it were me. Had a few of these in the past and have always been top quality.

Insane

Cheap plastic windows are the worst thing ever. When they scratch they will look absolute s**t. Plus the sliders get mouldy. Trust me I know, been there and done that. Bought cheap windows and ended up removing them to replace with proper hard coated ones. (which I actually have for sale...

Yeah usable road car and stripped out road car are two things which don't go together. Awesome for track but horrendous on the road. I removed 160kg from my 182. Made a very noticeable difference on track. Was over 200bhp per tonne with me in it!

You can still keep it usable if you keep the original window runners. Not ideal unless you have formed plastic windows though. The doors are lumps so any weight you can save from there is beneficial if you're on a weight saving spree

02 November 2019 - Mapping Graham joined me for a very early start on Saturday to take the car up to Engine Dynamics for running in and mapping. I loaded the car on to the trailer the night before so all we had to do on Saturday morning was sling the tools/spares into the back of the truck...

ASTs over B14s. From my experience in other cars with B14s, they are far too soft for anything other than road driving, fast or slow.

As in the 4th? With OpenTrack? Too soon though for me, need to sort the MOT out first too!

Need to get at least a few local shakedowns done before I venture that far haha! It is on the list though.

The car is now insured again for the first time since January! :cool: wohoo!

I would speak to Bilt Hamber and send them the photos of that rust on the sills. They are extremely helpful chaps and will advise you axactly what you need. I spoke to them recently and they told me not to order what I had already selected and told me what I needed.

CLIP will sort it for good. Graham did mine recently.

I don't think there is a standardised rule, so it's always worth checking. If they are high tensile they will more than likely have a marking on the top of the cap head. If they are sold as stainless steel then I would say they are more than likely not high tensile. Or not as strong as the...

I can't stop looking at your photos! One thing I'd note though, is those bolts you've changed to SS cap heads. They would have been high tensile bolts, probably 12.9. And whilst SS looks nicer it obviously isn't as strong. May be worth a consideration for vital components like suspension...

Why would you want to drive to Chiselhurst haha! You need to head away from the M25 not stay within in!

To confirm, the entire exhaust does sit completely parallel to the ground. no lower than the original system. I forgot to take pictures though sorry.

@mossyv6 when you sprayed the plastics did you sand them down and prep first? How well does the paint stick to a plastic? Always thought it would flake off easily? Mine are looking sorry for themselves too!

Ethanol has some kind of water retention from condensation. Obviously that would not be good to leave it standing for long periods, especially inside an engine.

Not sure that would happen with ITBs unless you were ready and right up at the top of the rev range. You'd need the torque from a turbo for that I imagine.

They just give the car that little bit more oomph they need. Certainly noticeable. Especially when on track with other Clios who don't have ITBs. 200-210bhp in something which weighs 950kg is nothing to be over looked. They do sound awesome too!

That's more than low enough!!

The cost difference between VPower and shitty fuel over a tank is so minimal too, it's really not worth thinking about, for the sake of a few quid just put the good stuff in. Unless you have a low power daily. I obviously don't stick VPower in my 1.2L 65bhp corsa haha!

Depends who is the better driver on track :p A Clio turbo is certainly no slouch though. For me, a low boost conversion was the maximum. Yes they would be ridiculous if you go up towards 300bhp but then parts are way past the reliability barrier and it's simply not worth the constant worry in...

In that case, I would just buy the kit from them, get AWMotorworks to fit it and let Engine Dynamics map it. You could basically just book it in with Alex at AWMotorworks, and tell him you want the low boost kit. Then you'd only pick it up once all is done. Alex and Engine Dynamics work...

We've just finished building one from scratch. It's been intensive but a good result. There was recently a kit for sale second hand on the facebook group. Was an absolute bargain. Much cheaper to do it that way if you're in no rush. But if you want to just buy it all in one go brand new...

Maybe. I'm no expert. I originally thought momentum was the same quality as V-Power. All I know is that Ashford motorsport who build and run race engines/cars said to never use momemtum. They've been running multiple no cost limit Clio race cars so their development experience is huge.

Go for a turbo. I wouldn't want to put any extra strain on the aux belt myself. Can't see there being any issues with reliability on a turbo conversion if it's done properly. Low boost and you won't have any lag issues. Especially if you got for a small ball bearing turbo like I have :)

Ashford Motorsport (build race engines) told me to NEVER use Momentum. I has additives to increase the RON or something similar. V-Power is all you need. Nothing else.

Anyone on here? Noticed what looks like Javelin track day stickers on the windscreen. Live around the corner from you.