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I ordered M8 x 6.3mm thick by the looks of my eBay order history and had no issues with using the standard bolts. I’m sure 8mm thickness would be no issue, but I ended up playing it safe and ordered the 6.3mm (1/4”) ones.

Russ, I used 2 of these spacers from eBay:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Spacer-Standoff-Collar-Stand-off-Spacers-M5-M6-M8-M10-/291169910104?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Cost me just a shade under £5 and was able to re-use the original...

I seem to remember I got mines from venom motorsport as well, and yeah it does look like they use a generic image for the website item.

@VenomUK this is my NRG 2.8 QR with a crude measurement made using a tape. A mate of mine emailed driftworks when we bought these and confirmed all the NRG QR’s are the same height/depth, regardless of the model. I’m also using the same Momo boss as @MrBlonde has. Hope this is of some use.

Pretty much as per frayz post above:- - I filled the sector rod with lead shot (ensure you leave enough of a gap at the end of the rod to allow the the front pivot to be lengthene/shorted when setting up the shifter - I didn’t and had to take the rod back off to empty some of the shot back out...

Just a suggestion, but for those that are happy to, what about we donate our refunds towards @Aaron.. lad who’s done the grand job of not only exceeding his walking distance, but mugging off his old man off at the same time 😂 Happy to be put back in my box, but thought I put forward that as a...

Sorry for that 😂. I’ve essentially done the same thing, but can’t quite face rust in the eyes or bolt snapping quite yet.

Yup. I was sceptical when I order them, but they arrived yesterday and it was the kit containing both bushes. Like you said, bargain compared to the powerflex bushes or even ordering direct from whiteline.

If you’re looking for whiteline rear axle bushes I’ve just purchased a set from driftworks of all places, much cheaper than going to whiteline direct atm:- https://www.driftworks.com/whiteline-beam-axle-mount-bushing-kit-rear-suspension-kdt947.html

Agree with the above, removing is a easy but refitting is definitely a job I wouldn’t want to repeat anytime soon. If the inner bushes are ok, I would quite happily leave it where it is and just treat the ends. That said, it’s definitely wasn’t the worst job I’ve done on a Clio, but does need...

I remember seeing @Dr Jekyll using a viscous fan spanner (I think) to change his tie rods. I’ve ended up buying both the spanner and the tie rod removal tool for when I tackle this job at somepoint when it comes warms up outside. Edit: found the page in his project thread:-...

I bought my cable 2nd hand from a mate, so not sure of the part number, but google seems to suggest it is 8200235412. Here is the diagram on Partsouq...

@DomP182 I suffered a snapped bonnet release cable and included some details in the thread linked below:- https://cliosport.net/threads/bonnett-cable.818606/ hope it‘s of some help

I bought a 3/8” to 1/2“ adapter so I can use my 1/2” deep sockets and allow wheel sockets with mines. Worthwhile investment for under £5 and makes it even more versatile.

I recently had to replace my magnecor leads as the rubber on a couple of the coil pack end connectors and spark plug connector had split. I’ll caveat this with these were on the car when I bought it 3 years ago and so have no idea how old they were. Replaced them with a set of MLR leads from...

Couple from a recent day out to Braemar

Another recommendation for the 5’s ; running them on my Leon FR and I certainly have no complaints. Wear rate seems to be good and grip levels are also pretty good.....even if it is only daily 😂 They ‘re definitely a marked improvement over the previous GY F1 3’s I ran on my Passat CC and...

CS and this thread has a lot to answer for 😂

@DomP182 they are a proline motorsport (before they were bought over) 6 line kit, so it consisted of 2 x front lines, 2 x chassis to rear beam lines and 2 x rear beam to caliper lines; the 4 rear lines replace the 2 rear flexis and rear beam-caliper hard lines.

Got rid of the horrible cut ‘n’ shut stainless exhaust on my 172 And replaced it with a nice shiny new k-tec supersport stealth stainless

@Leo182 that pulley looks in better condition than my one did, the rubber dampening material in mines was all cracked and the pulley itself was alot more grotty than yours is. But it would still be worth doing the line test just to rule it out. Not sure about the wobble, doesn’t look too bad...

When my crankshaft pulley was failing it would stall the PAS pump when putting load on the steering and I was also getting a similar noise to what you are in the video. If you want confirm if it is the pulley, put a spot/line of paint or chalk across the inner and outer portion of the crank...

Changed my gearbox mount recently and had issues getting the mount off the big bolt. I left the actually cast mount that connects the box to the chassis in place and just changed the rubber mount in-situ. Was a bit fiddly but definitely achievable. - using a trolly Jack, Jack the box just...

I’m sure that was the same 197 that was sitting outside the local body shop I was getting my cup spoiler painted at. If it was, the guy I was dealing with at the shop told me the owner of the car was due to compete in the Tour of Mull that weekend and was out doing some last minute practice and...

Glad the FobFix option worked out for you, good result and a cheap fix.

I was exactly the same as I only have 1 genuine key, but made sure I used the correct postage and they return they key to you via recorded delivery, so you should have no issues. That said, at least if you get a Timpsons non-remote key then at least you would have a back-up should you decide to...

I’ve also got a Timpsons key and i works perfectly well and solved my starting issue, which was similar to the the OP’s issue. But recent I’ve wanted to get the car‘s original key repaired and used these guys (I’m sure someone on here recommended them previously):-...

Have a look at this thread:- https://cliosport.net/threads/pms-rattle-vibration-damper.828641/ this details some things that can be done to help with the vibrations. I’ve recently fitted a brand new PMS shifter and I‘ve filled the selector rod with lead shot, filled the pivot rubbers with...

Regarding the clock, I’ve just had a similar issue with mines. It was continually scrolling through the minutes on its own and some of the digits started only partially appearing. Started doing it out of the blue and so replaced the clock/screen with another unit and that has solved the issue.

@Coops Mk1 @green I’ve lost the sheet of the sticky dots I bought and just checked and eBay listing I used is no longer active, so I’ve been out with my verniers and measured the ones on my car and they are the 10mm x 4mm ones.