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These are the details of the OEM axle carrier to body bolts I removed from my 172:- 127mm total length 120mm shank 54mm threaded 27.7mm head diameter M10 x 1.25 8.8 grade The OEM bolts are metric fine pitch threads, which makes them a PITA to remove, as you’ve no doubt found out. if I...

Aye it seems to be a very random occurrence indeed. At least you may have an explanation for yours, but still annoying nonetheless. I’ve never had any sign of water ingress in my 172 (that I’m aware of anyway), hence why it completely stumped me; 4 years without an issue and then out of nowhere...

ffs, helps if I could link the thread properly 🤦🏻‍♂️ Immobiliser dash light “backlit”

@Martin_172 I had exactly the same thing recently with my 172, here’s my thread on it:- https://cliosport.net/threads/immobiliser-dash-light-“backlit”.839919/#post-12162530 never managed to get to the bottom of it, despite lots of fault finding and it annoyed me enough to depin the power...

As James says, they’re an utter in the a**e to get on. Took me over an hour and a half to do both sides….then had to replace one again after less than 15 mile as it spun and twisted on the tie rod when getting my alignment done and garage doing it didn’t notice, so it then ripped holes in...

So just to add to the “SGS jacks are sh*t” numbers; my 3 tonne low profile Jack hasn’t lasted 4 years and it’s decided to give up the ghost. Therefore, Halfords it is this time round…

Yup that’s identical to my one from PMS, got yourself a bargain there.

I used this one from Pure Motorspor when I had my belts done earlier in the year, as the Renault OEM was still unavailable at the time:- https://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/damped-crank-pulley-oe-equivalent seemed pretty good quality and has been absolutely fine since fitting back in March...

Just to round this off for any future searches etc. I ended up opting for the powerflex spring pads, purely due to them having 20% off on eBay. Seemed to fit pretty well, so time (and the better weather in the spring) will tell if they’re any good.

Currently in the midst of replacing the rear axle bushes on my 172 and when I removed the rear springs, I’ve found that the OEM rubbers are utterly shot; lower ones are particularly bad as it looks like the springs have rubbed right through the pads, but suppose that was to be expected with...

Yup, I just gave them a quick clean up and popped them into the febi ones. They’re only a spacer/landing surface for the top hat/cap to butt up against, so no issues with reusing them.

This thread is pretty comprehensive in explaining how these spacers fit with the updated Renault top mounts. https://cliosport.net/threads/172-new-top-mount-modified-spacer-issues.641094/ I’ve read on here (and there’s a bit in the above thread) that quite a few people have had issues with...

I bought my nuts, bolts and washers for the front shocks from https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/. If a remember rightly, I bought:- M14 x 60mm 10.9 BZP bolts (would buy 65mm length next time round) M14 BZP-8 thick nyloc nuts M14 Form A BZP washers just checked on their site and 4 bolts, 4...

I’ll put the zip file here in case others need it. This is contains all the files that were previously held in various threads on CS but organised into separate folders and also includes a few others that were on here but not in the original zip from years back (I.e official Renault ph2 fuse...

sent you over am PM with a zip file of diagrams I have, so hopefully these will be of some help.

This might seem random, but it might be worth checking or getting the battery checked as I had something similar when I had my 106 GTI years ago. The oil temperature gauge starting acting like a mini rev counter, no other electrical weirdness other than this. Got the battery tested and turned...

Just to update this thread for the time being. Checked the horn wiring as Louis suggested, but all seemed fine. So with the light annoying me, and tbh being a bit of a distraction whilst out on the road, I managed to find a pin diagram for ph2 UCH connectors (buried in the depth of CS), which...

I‘ll have a look and see if there is anything obvious with horn wiring. I run a phase 1 type stalk, so i don’t have to have the horn wiring running to the centre push button on the wheel, to try and avoid any issues like squib shorting out, but as you say, worth a look.

@JamesBryan it looks like it’s an annotated version of the list contained with this wiring diagram I’ve attached. @Louis i do have an OMP when fitted, but it’s been on there for 4 years and i‘ve had all the airbags in the car properly deactivated via the airbag ecu (so no resistors required)...

Cheer James, didn’t even see that list in amongst all the manuals I’ve got downloaded. I’ll try and cross reference these to the diagrams and see if there’s any of the relevant ones I haven’t check checked yet.

@Louis that’s exactly what it seeme like tbh, but having checked and cleaned all the earths I know of, it has made no difference, hence why I had gone to looking further into the wiring/UCH/fusebox. That said, if anyone knows any other earths related to the UCH/fusebox/dash clocks etc. then...

Done some more investigation into this and still at a bit of a loss. Decided to strip the UCH out again and have a closer look at the circuit board as well as give it a good clean with contact cleaner. Didn’t make any difference…but, when I was putting the UCH back in the car, I noticed that...

Thanks to @JamesBryan reminding me about the dash top earths, so been out tonight and checked them. Even though they looked absoltules fine, I unbolted them, cleaned them clean and put them back together, but still no change unfortunately. Even though I hate electrics and electronics, I...

Literally nothing, just started out of the blue when I went out to the car one day the light was doing it, which again makes it all the stranger.…but it is a 19 year old french baguette so nothing really surprises me anymore.

Isn’t it just, it’s a right pain in the proverbial 😂 Forgot all about the dash top earths, will need to have a look at them and see if there’s anything amiss with them.

I’m sure most will be relieved this is not another immobiliser issue thread. It is, however, a bit of an odd one. Recently, the immobiliser red light in the centre of the dash clocks on my 172 has become “backlit” and dimly glows all the time. The light still flashes as it should when the car...

Not found an excuse to properly use it yet (poor effort I know), but it certainly has a good weight to it and feels a robust unit.

Once again, cliosport has a lot to answer for 😂

Could also be worth a check and clean of the big white multiplug under the fuse box as well, whilst you’re under the bonnet. I’ve seen a few others on here have throttle pedal fault codes come up and eventually trace it back to the age old ’corrosion in the white plug’. Worth a try before...

Potentially crankshaft position sensor, they normally like to cause hot start issues. Worth a check to see if you’re car has to old black plug sensor or the updated blue plug sensor, as the old black ones like to play up. Regardless, it would be worth whipping the sensor out and giving it a...