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You may struggle... I sprayed it with Plastidip! (Not sure they exist in the wild? )

OK so lets move inside. At this point lets assume you have the Kangoo's interior / dash completely stripped out (But don't remove the heater box) and the Clio dash loom + BCU / fuse box etc connected through the bulkhead to the engine loom. What you need to do is get this in behind the Kangoo...

I'm from near to Donington Park / Derby

Next (but not today) I'll talk about interior, brakes, wiring and getting it to actually work....!

Once you're happy everything is in place and tightened up, you can drop in the engine. DON'T FORGET - Put the exhaust manifold in place ish before putting the engine in, it's almost impossible to get in/out with the engine in situ. You'll probably want to us the clio radiator & fan. Now you can...

Something else that you are going to need to transplant is the pedal box. This is because the kangoo had a hydraulic clutch but the clio is cable. Now you can raise the clio's subframe up to the kangoo and bolt on. And fit the Clio's ABS pump and tubing. This thing is gloriously floppy.

This is a VERY good time to do any service work on the Clio engine, EG a belt & dephaser change. I also did a full service including gearbox oil - which you will need to drain anyway to remove the drive shafts (forgot to mention!)

Forgot to say (and I cant edit anything older than 15 mins...You'll need to remove the drive shafts from the engine (s) before you can pull the engines out, it's easiest to remove the complete strut / swivel hub / brake / shaft assembly as one. the bottom ball joints often put up a bit of a...

With the engine out, you can the drop the subframe, steering rack and suspension / brake, zorst, and EPAS pump etc... None of which is retained - I fitted these back on the clio later to make it into a rolling shell.

OK lets rip the engine out of the Kangoo. Basically you really dont need to keep anything, so go mad. just peel back the layers. EXCEPT if you have Air conditioning and want to keep it, dont damage the condenser, tubes etc (but remove them)

Other parts to retain when stripping the clio, before we get to the engine bay, you'll need to keep the gear stick and plastic mount thing (the cream coloured bit) The kangoo is a cable-shift, the Clio is rod-shift. Conveniently, just swapping these bits across everything lines up :-)

This is the dash loom from the Clio, note in the previous post there is a square hole to the left of the dash, near the wing mirror, this is in-fact a large connector that connects the main internal loom to the engine bay loom, very handy! The Kangoo has no such connector BUT passes through in...

Also start by pulling the dash out of the clio... Out of one and into the other? Not QUITE that simple...

Meanwhile... I start to pull out the dash. Not as easy as it sounds, but certainly not as hard as re-fitting...

My daily Clio watching on is horror and amazement as I proceed...

And then came the rains...

As you probably know by now, the Kangoo is based on Clio front end parts, making this ALMOST a bolt-on conversion. I first decided to start peeling the kangoo's face off, and draining it's boldly fluids, of which there was quite a lot. Bonnet off and full glory of the diesel monster is...

So, I probably should have posted this DURING the build but hay-ho, I'm doing it now instead ! As it stands the Kanglio is ready for it's MOT . This project started in September 2019 when my previous van, a Transit connect, failed its MOT in dramatic style, mostly rust based. I knew I'd not...

Update: fixed - whacked the stalk with a screwdriver and it works - must be a bad internal contact.

I haven't no, didn't think to look at them when i swapped the suspension around, i'll get a set ordered, cant do any harm either way. However I have bigger issues now as someone ran a red light in derby and bumped my right rear side-on, its killed the bumper, luckily no body damage but I think...

*twist the stalk

Afternoon chaps! My rear fog doesn't seem to be working. With my main lights on, I trust the stalk and the front fogs come on, next step for rear and nothing, no dash light, no fogs. I've checked the fuse, I've checked the rear cluster connectors ( very clean) and tested the bulbs. Should...

I haven't lowered it recently - it's sat at the same height it's been for at least a year - the bump steer has increased significantly in the last couple of months, this is the main reason i have swapped the suspension for new.

Sorry i got that backwards!!!!, 1 degree of camber and 0 degrees toe (I've seen ALL sorts of recommendations.... absolutely all over the place) I've had a few of these and never known lowering to increase bump steer - its not mad low either.

Evening team! Last weekend I replaced ALL of the front suspension: - New coilovers from KTR - New genuine strut top mounts and swivel bearings - New lower wishbones incl bushes and ball-joints - New track rod ends The reason was Three-fold, it's done 115k miles, the spax springs were painfully...

That's fair, I was expecting that for "half finished mess" to "track ready"... I'm about £1000 into it in costs so far, but have , all I really need to buy next is suitable wheels, not sure if I should go with steels or OZ alloys...

I see!! Out of interest what are these valued at (depending on fit and finish obviously) I'll start a build thread on here, i was going to video it but its extremely hard to file AND get productive work done.

Daniel, do you still have this? How's it going? I'm building one at the moment.

Mornin' all! You may be aware but if not I've just launched my new Clio-Specific Youtube channel (You may know me already from Turbo Mini TV) This is the first of many videos, LOADS planned - feel free to drop by and say hello!

Morning all I live near Derby, and last weekend I had to drive down to London to collect an engine, but that's basically irrelevant! My car is a 54 plate 182 "Full Fat" So, on the way back up I noticed some odd things starting to happen, which include: - Blower fan cutting off for a few...