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After some years of ownership and some 2,5-3k spent on mods I thought it's about time to do some track days this year car as it is now: milltek cat back(had it from 2009 and it didn't crack so far-happy with it) k-tec solid engine mounts + poly dogbone Helix organic gr n clutch kit k-tec solid...

I've seen an oil test back in 2009, it showed the oil film resistance to mecanical force and the motul 300v was almost twice more adhesive to metal than a normal 5w40 oil. mind you the test was to show the benefits of running with or without oil additive. The guy was testing castrol magnatec...

the safer bet is to run a performance filter in the stock airbox, not the original one as it's not washable. too bad k&n apollo, BMC CDA and maxogen weren't in the test as they're also very popular

and for £180k you could get 9 of those but I'd still get a 458 :); there are always better value/money options I think the man likes the clio if he's willing to put 15k in it

remapped the car has 7500 rev limit now and even with itb's I wouldn't go over that, as I probably won't bother changing internals just for couple hundred revs. anyway it seems the OP got his answer: for track use at least go for bodies

turbo clio, yeah nice (I've been in a 400bhp ph1) but the poor little renault box can't handle too much torque we all know that. one more reason to go NA tuning sound wise hmm... one turbo vs 4 trumpets.. I pick number two ;)

My opinion: listen to the reasonable part in you then listen to the "child" and what he really wants and then do as the stronger part tell you. The important thing is for you to enjoy the car. This could mean the 1 year savings for some one thrown in a super charger kit or smth. this may sound...

some small dents need to be fixed rear bumper needs a paintjob gearbox rebuilt engine is cryin' for these: http://k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=3633&appid=2 so not that much lol

eibach bolts?

my bolts only go to about -1,5 degrees, nowhere near 3 degrees! they were bought from kam racing btw! car was ok when standard (no issues with the geometry) maybe they give around 2 degrees on non cup suspension as the bolt spacing is different

camber bolts or adjustable top mounts, camber bolts- cheaper option

yes I had a go at this http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?602639-Bumper-bracket-mod-DIY hope will be useful to you

I did some work on the arches but now I found out that I'm gonna have to cut some of the metal under the arches as the wheel lightly rubs on it too I also have a thread on how I did the arches if you're interested mate

thx!

1 degree negative is ok though, will be better for tyre wear if you do a decent amount of motorway journeys. however that was one of the reasons I didn't wanted coilovers with built in camber adjustment. I had my camber bolts on the std shocks and already knew they will give me the desired angle

looking from the front of the car, if the top of the tyres are pointed to the engine you have negative camber, or positive the other way around

you will ruin the handling mostly, but try not to go like that too long as you'll prob stress other components in the suspension

^I can confirm that ;)

only if you have a truck trial 8x8 TATRA maybe :D as those always seem to be positive

LOL you learn as you go on no problem ;) remember 1,5 degrees means 1 degree and 30 minutes as this can be confusing to some people

at 1,5 degrees being positive or negative it's easy to notice when looking from the front straight at the wheels. The cheap K-tec coilies have built in camber adjustment, just go to someone who knows what he's doing and get the tracking done like tony earlier said, 1,5 negative and 1mm toe out...

yeah it does! 1,5 positive is insanely wrong! if you got camber bolts you can correct this what coilies are you running? quite lazy to go back couple of pages :D

yes, every time you alter the ride height you'll have to do the tracking. how come you're 1.5 deg positive?? you're running camber bolts?

I'd do the same tbh. the 182 looks good with that tyre size. or maybe go to 15" like many did and run 195/50 tyres, they will be a little smaller but not too much. For me though, 16" is the best compromise between looks/practicality/performance so I'm keeping them. If you're planning to do...

anyway I've seen loads of sports claiming they're about 60mm lower, still don't know how they achieve that!

or try fixing your old one http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?537299-Washer-jets-issues-fix-guide

try this and let us know how did it worked for you http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?537299-Washer-jets-issues-fix-guide

Are you sure that is 60 mm lower on the front? Mine rubs on the wheel arches and it's 25 mm lower (in the front) on gaz coilies. I wouldn't go lower than 40 mm in the front as there will be a lot of stress on the drive shafts I'm running 1,5 degree negative on the front (camber bolts) and 1mm...

80% of occasions the CC works fine but sometimes it's reversing the controls of the buttons. For example if I press "R" the speed increases or if press "+" the cruise control disengages, or any other combinations like those mentioned Has this ever happened to anyone as I tried to do a search...

any expert opinion on this? I'm not leaving mine to idle unless there's a thick layer of ice on the screen and need the heat to get it off so leave it idle for 1 min or not?