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Hub dyno if I'm not mistaken. VERY low loses on one of those so I'd say you're quite down on power

I've got some ATE super blue racing fluid in stock if you want to collect

easy is relative. How good are you with a drill?

I put my phone in the glovebox when I went paintballing, Came back at the end of the day, 14%!!!!! WTF!!!! It'd been trying to find a signal the whole time.

No sweat. I made myself ramps, so the time wasn't wasted Sort what you need to sort :)

generally yes :p I only sell products I like the quality of and/or the results from.

Fortunate that there's loads of them for sale, and they seem to be the cheapest at the moment. Having to restrain myself until other things are sold! Looks nice Dawn :)

and a body-jack to get the brace bar between the tailpipes fixed at the right distance. It comes in too many pieces. I expect to tak an hour to change a 182 exhaust. A scorpion will take double that

Kindle use Android operating system, but heavily restricted. You can only use the amazon market for apps. It's a nice piece of hardware, just very limiting

no, you're right, it's definitely a rule they're bringing in. When is altogether another matter, as they've put off some of the new rules indefinitely

comes under a special sub section. Remove rear seats and they can't complain, it's only a rear passenger safety issue

heavily locked down. Nexus 7 is a better buy, and better in general

yes

not separately no. Can do you a good deal on a new set though ;)

never going to extract that IMO. Just drill and tap a new thread

sounds like that was a by-product of the cutting out

how did you come to that conclusion? sounds like a massive vacuum leak to me

fits badly (I'd rather make one fron scratch), and drones a lot at 70

if it's loose it should pull out, yes? it's a friction fit, so a new one will tap in. alternatively put a barely noticable kink in the tube where it sits in the block, and this should tighten it up. A little liquid gasket should help too

yup. everything is done with target maps too in modern ECU's, so it's all closed loop. Hex code in a megane 250 ECU is one of the most intimidating things I've ever seen The misfire, I'm not sure, could just be you're well past the injector's capability and it's going lean, or you could have...

not an issue, just how it's set. Yellow line shows how much work the solenoid is doing (duty cycle) to increase boost, you'll have to increase the duty cycle. Henk will be all over that I'm sure

boost seems to be behaving as the PWM control is asking it to. I'd be looking at the wastegate duty target table if it were me

it's a nice way to do it. I'm downgrading my car a little to sell it soon, so the original ECU and inlet will go back on with no effort at all. Adaptor's will transfer nicely across to what I'm planning next too ;)

typical MAHA loses tbh. Powerstation does the same or worse. Bad system.

nope (I might have done this to make the laguna alternator work though)

exactly this. All designed originally because people moaned about wires being cut. Then everyone moans and bitches that cutting wires is easier. Some people literally will find fault with anything just for the sake of voicing an opinion

They're close to £60 a side if you get the updated part. For what it's worth, I've had more issues and knocking form the updated version than just sticking with the old type for about £5 a side less

protects a few things on a road car that matter, like handbrake cables. Also the cat in the standard position is right under the gear linkage, the heat from this can effect the bushes and plasticise the grease. Track car with a decat......not so much

s**t bearings are about £20, decent ones are about £50. £62.54 for genuine

could be still if cheap bearings were used, or not torqued correctly. It does sound more like a front though