Search results

it's a known possible thing. 1 in 500 or so I'd say. Usually happens when the top end of the rev range is used a lot, and/or the rev limiter is bounced off all the time

I'd say it's quite possible it's either your temp sensor giving the ECU incorrect information, or your thermostat never letting the engine getting fully warm, so you're always running a little rich. If your timning was out before the engine will have been in a different fueling condition.

Call me in the week. it'll be a lot less than that /\

Yes, it's VERY good oil. I spec it for track cars (in a 10w50 or 10w60 in extreme cases). I run it in my ITB'd 172, and the Burpspeed racecar engine runs it. ELF 5w40 is probably as good as you would need for a road car. This is what I spec for "everything else"

I bought a box of reject spanners for £10 (literally hundreds of the things) 2 x 22mm spanners, Winning!

just a sucker for a yokel accent

Aside from the fact I obviously do things and take advantage of the trade suppliers and industry contacts I have, the money I spend on mods is what I have available due to having very little in the way of financial commitment outside of work. I'd probably get more extreme things done if I didn't...

Looks very nicely done. Better than the place that told you they couldn't get a reading?

£450 :) I've just had a price re-jig and been changing details on the website etc

I badly want to do a Mallory track day, I don't think that place is boring in any way shape or form! Silverstone just always seems too wide and flat

Silverstone is boring, as is the British GP

not quite, I'd been home long enough to eat ;)

My parents got 800's recently so I spent some time setting up their email accounts etc. Good phone tbh, a lot better than the amount they sold suggests. It should have been Nokias saviour, but it's hard to win people back once you've lost their loyalty. Definitely a turning point for them though.

over priced and badly made.

they do that. Properly crap suspension

In the middle of installing this at the moment

map3000 is ok, I've used it for years and got quite used to it. GWV4 is much more modern and when you know it is a lot better. Live scope tracing of lambda for tweaking accel fuel is a personal favourite function. I really like the interface on the canems software too TBH, basic though it is in...

I looked into a DTA a lot a while back. Just can't get over the software looking like it was written for a sinclair 64

I use a normal socket, and it's an 18mm, not a 16mm

entirely depends what suspension you want to run. There's no advantage to changing other than fitment as far as I'm concerned (oh and LOL at the multitude of wrong info and contradictions bouncing back and forth)

In theory you can do it with anything. First challenge is finding the loom plugs and wiring schemes. Second challenge is getting things to communicate. K-tec have even got the Marelli dash running from the GEN90, which is no mean feat

I've fitted 182 cup shafts to a 172 cup (center bearing carrier being an upgrade IMO, giving equal length shafts) and no issues. Can't see why it would be different the other way round. The bearings are only about 4mm wider, but the OD of the bearing is about 10mm bigger. Not a lot of point to...

Email reply sent to me when discussing this reported "issue" i should mention that the cases you've mentioned were not apparent to me, maybe if they'd gone through me they'd have been given the correct information

it's absolute nonsense. For a start cups have the same hub spacing as a normal 172 If you look at the plates, they're designed to be tight, they are attached to the strut in such a way that they act as a clamping spring (something which SPAX felt was important to do with the camber adjustment...

yes they're 60/40Nm

less than that at the moment. They're £150 off RRP until the end of december, making them £749.99 from me

air has to travel through the rad in the normal directions it would if you were driving

hang on....leave the 3 pin plug alone, just leave it not attached. The 2 pin plug is all you need to worry about

just try the connections. Polarity will effect if the fan sucks of blows, so test it. If it's wrong, switch the wires

V1's and V2's are all made in china FYI. Cheap stuff sold expensively