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Got the calipers painted up and ready to rebuild using kits from Bigg Red. You have to have one of these unless you like a fight. Carriers and calipers done. Steering knuckles, bearings and hubs done. Nice, clean, rebuilt brake and steering/suspension parts. It’s nice to have...

Pro-am run 70 F 90 R. They used to run 90 F 110 R.

AST told me they’d run equal or higher spring rates at the back on the 5100 series. That was for a fast road set up with occasional track use. I went for 70/70 nm (7kg/7kg) but found them a bit too hard for daily use. Now they’re purely used for track, I’m on 9kg F and 100 kg rear. It’s superb.

I have dm’d you.

Motion Ratio - Rob Boston was trying to explain this to me when he was setting mine up. Something about 182s having a lower than ‘1’ ratio due to the design of the axle. I confess i didn’t fully understand it, but nodded my head in agreement. 😂

170lbs is roughly 3 kg/mm so that’s half of what BC Racing recommended? More compliant/comfortable for sure, but a bit more prone to understeer if you’re pushing on during cornering.

FJ53OGP you say?

When I restored my first 182, I had every single part off it at one stage. All brake lines removed, subframes, you name it. It took about 3 days of swearing and endless litres of brake fluid, runs up and down the road, to finally get a decent pedal. Lesson learned. One story I often tell is...

With the engine off, apply steady pressure to the brake pedal. If it slowly sinks to the floor, you might have an issue.

I think it's as James has already alluded to. The ABS module can trap air inside it. If the ABS module was not properly bled, air bubbles will still be in the system, leading to a soft brake pedal when the ABS pump activates after starting the engine. I have got around this in the past by...

I think parts like calipers and carriers are fine. Fred from Frogjam Motorsport mentioned they dipped a rear beam for a while, and it damaged the threads. I blasted the steering knuckles and only dipped them briefly to remove flash rust, to avoid that. I also read a story on here where a guy...

Cheers. I enjoy doing them. And if it helps other people, I'm all for that. Certain parts are impossible to find now and getting expensive.

The DEOX-C doing its job. Pretty happy with how these have turned out. Before. After. Managed to get a few coats of Hydrate-80 onto them in preparation for paint at the weekend and then I can start rebuilding. Thank you for reading.

Result! Who did you take it too in the end?

No, I think that'll be spot on. A good damper will do a better job if the springs are not too stiff. They'll handle potholes better and help maintain contact between the tyres and the road. I got a real education after talking to AST about having the rear stiffer than the front. I was always...

Sounds like a sewing machine. Lovely!

I've never run the BR series, to be honest, just the DS. However, the spring rates seemed to be closer to what you're looking for. But if BC says they'll do a softer spring, even better, I guess. And you can always try other spring rates if you don't like the 6/6kg setup. I'm not sure what...

Would the BR kit not be better suited? That's 6kg F and 4kg R. Are you using it on track at any point? My current circuit 182 came with the DS 9/8 kg and was bearable over a 50-mile round trip to Croft, once a month. I wouldn't like to think I was driving it daily though. Funnily enough, I've...

£599 direct from Hyundai plus 6 up front over 36 months, 8k p.a

For everyday use, I can’t see why they wouldn’t be fine. I’ve used calipers from Febi and Apec on my old 182 before without any issues. It’s only cast steel at the end of the day.

After my relatively short drive, I was certain the car would be insanely fast - no matter where you took it on a circuit. As I mentioned earlier, there was a Tesla Model 3 Performance at Croft that absolutely dominated the straights. However, it struggled to pull away from the typical 200-300...

Ah Saferich, part of the Shandong Gengyuan Tyre Company 😂 It’s a good starting point. Good luck! 😉

Sounds like it just needs a good geo setup. What tyres are you using? I bought a 182 and it had AD08Rs - semi slick budget trackday tyre - and the tramlining was outstanding. It used to try and throw me into a hedge and that was on the A66. I took it into a Bodyshop and they set the geo and...

In terms of Renault focussed garages - There’s Andy Harland in Darlington. I’ve never used him, but he was a former master technician at the garage I work for. There’s one in Middlesbrough but I personally wouldn’t use again for various reasons. Mickleton Garage is over Barney - a fair old...

Yeah, they’re spot on. I could get mine done at work but they’d give the job to the apprentice. What could possibly go wrong 😑

So these were the calipers after a 24 hour soak in RUST-E. Pretty disappointing. It’s barely touched the surface corrosion, let alone the pitting. I guess that’s the downside of having a premix solution. Probably better for lightly rusted metal. So, I wire wheeled the old paint off and...

I’ve had some awful pads over the years, namely Brembo and Motrio. Even HP2000 (Brembo Sport) didn’t help. I’m running DS2500 now and the pedal feel is really good.

Sad to hear you have to move it on. It was always a great project which influenced some of my choices on the RB. As has already been mentioned, the mileage will kill the price you’re suggesting. It shouldn’t, but it will. Lots of premium parts on it though, which should fetch decent money...

It could be any number of things but here’s some suggestions: Replace the Pads, it’ll rule out pad glazing as a contributing factor. Try re-bleeding the brake system to ensure all air is removed. Sometimes, bleeding with the engine running (ABS active) can help. Are the calipers functioning...

Be WErF iT. ThE PRicE of TheSe CarS is ONLy GoiNG OnE WaY.