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So you'd be happy driving something totally inferior to the car you have purchased whilst yours in in for weeks getting repaired? Sure Mark got given a s-max. Remember if on finance, PCP etc you'd also still be paying a monthly premium to be driving an RS whilst pottering in a s-max or whatever...

I could think of plenty to replace it mate: M140i CTR (bit OTT though) Cupra 300 Golf R (to common maybe) Hyundai i30n

Nightmare! You must be so pissed off with that car now. Once sorted by Ford just get shut and get one of the other hyper hatches. It's just not worth the worry IMO.

Some great track cars in here that I hadn't seen before. Been doing track days for 3 years now and have loved every minute of it. Got the bug by doing a crappy experience day (session) at 3 sisters in an Atom. Guy was a tool and wouldn't let me get out of 3rd gear and was being pissy about the...

Looks terrible that, I'd be kinda embarrassed driving it. Bet it's a beast to drive though.

I removed the engine and box with shafts still in from the bottom all resting on the subframe. I just left the lower engine mount attached to give it stability. The head was off it mind so didn't need lifting that high to slide out.

I used AST's with 9kg front and 11kg in the rear in my 182 and it handled great, it rotated nicely but I know that's not to everyone's taste.

I have removed the spinning collar locking nuts in the past by chiselin part of the collar away and then using the edge of the chisel to tap into the non moving part of the nut and freeing them that way, but the nuts need to be nipped up and have enough clearance to actually get the chisel in...

That kit above won't work then. You could weld a nut to the non spinning part of the locking nut. Got any pics of the nut?

If using BC coilovers then 10kg front/8kg rear would be a good starting point for racing. 8/6 Is way to soft for a Clio IMO.

You can just knock a socket onto them and then remove the nut from the socket in a vice. However if they have spinning collers then they are much more difficult to remove.

Looks like good fun that! Is it toeing out loads at the rear?

Peco exhausts are supposidly now Cybox exhausts in Bromborough. I had a 3" twin exit exhaust for the 6MPS done by them a few years back, mixed reviews really. Booked time of work to go get it done, went down in the morning and left the car with them for 4 hours to get it all sorted. I went and...

Indeed they were, but the process was still all Jap. Thin under sealing, thin layers of paints, choice of metals etc hence why everything Jap of that era rusted like sh*t!

That MOT report don't look good mate. My Celica didn't have a report like that and once I stared to dig it had to be scrapped it was that rotten. It even passed its MOT which was seriously worrying as it was a death trap. Really hope that's not the case though mate but Jap cars of this era are...

Can't keep up with you James, nice purchase though. The seven thing gone then?

Need to try this as I spend hundreds a year on wheel alignment.

Mentioned this in a recent post. Best 4 banger I've driven and owned. Loved it, and the box to. Owned an ep3 and 182 as well and the 2ZZ was better.

It maybe good and fun but that's bonkers money for a 12 year old Vauxhall with 126k miles! Looks like a bastardised Calibra as well!

Go get a free check and then adjust the rear accordingly. Go back and check its gone as planned and have the fronts done then. https://www.alignmycar.co.uk/

Puncture repair working so far..

Tyres can make a hell of a difference, I changed from PS4's to Conti sport 5's and couldn't believe the difference. I cant wait for them to wear to go back to the Michelins.

So I've somehow managed to put the tiniest of splits into the NSF CV boot when fitting a set of billys to the Octavia. I mean its a couple of mm wide and just about pierced the boot, so I've just been out and bought a puncture repair kit from Evans cycles to bang over it. Anyone tried this...

Just buy a well sorted 1*2 stick some decent pads and tyres on it and away you go....

Yep similar to the above but with more cycles and firmer pressure in the later cycles to generate more heat for the DS1.11 compound.

Pictures of the backing plates...

Presume I'll be receiving the B Suffix Pad Range as below? B Suffix Pad Range Please note that when fitting the DS1.11 or DSUNO materials with the suffix B in their part numbers ,such as WB or ZB ,these pads have received a very high temperature heat treatment during manufacturing. This...

Octavia VRS TFSI (same calliper as the Golf GTI, Leon Cupra etc)

Thanks Kev. I bedded them in exactly how Ferodo recommended and made sure that the callipers were free by removing all previous build up on the pins and regreasing. I also made sure the calliper pistons were moving freely by pushing them in and out several times and they were fine.

Indeed, bit weird the centre and outside over heating. It's normally one or the other.