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Probably. But far be it for me to try and stop someone.

Ok, if you can sort that part, then thats good. But your still running a map sensor on an induction setup that has no stable manifold vacuum. Running off one cylinder isnt an option, and running off all 4 has its own problems. Its like trying to block a vacuum cleaner with 1 finger...

You wouldnt split any sensor signals to run standalone. And as much as it sounds like a simple solution, its not. The OEM ecu has several potentiometer tracts to monitor pedal position and the fbw throttle position. Simply feeding back a spindle driven potentiometer will leave the OEM ecu...

And for the hassle of generating an exact resistance curve to match.......? Let me put it this way.....you'll put in 3 times the effort and have 80% of the result and maybe save a small amount of money.

american iron rules!

If you worked really hard you could probably try and use the FBW motor setup to drive the ITB spindle.....but i dont even see the point of all the hard work for a car that will drive awkwardly in the end. If the stock ecu has a target map value for idle and the itb's fluctuate above and...

Who cares. Awesome handling cars are no fun....if your not trying to keep it out of a ditch then your just not working hard enough lol. Besides, once you start tuning everything is thrown out the window. Plus the yanks do quite well in the GT/le mans series........and the japs dont...

And part throttle? With each cylinder running independant from eachother and the idle strategy based on a constant volume air bleed........generating a true and stable map value for low rpm/part throttle control is a hassle. No matter what people do, its never that good. A vacuum manifold...

With gasses coming out at that sort of speed, it'ld be hard to use rough puffs as an indicator of where its coming from. If you get a leakdown test done you'll be able to isolate the exact area.

Open stats are misleading as system pressures fluctuate at lower values and localised DNB can occur a lot easier.

ouch lol. Could be a fucked exhaust gasket or head gasket. If you have a little tiny leak it can get significnatly worse as the gasses essentially flame cut the tiny hole into a massive one. Stick your hand around the back of the engine to feel for pulses of ex gas. Or do a leakdown...

having an adaptor made isnt hard, just tell them what you want.

Yea, the green sender. deally fit a take off with a length of braided hose to remote mount both the new and old sensor on a T peice.

easy. Buy an oil gauge which usually comes with a sensor/sender kit, then fit it to an oil takeoff (usually the pressure warning switch location) using an extended adaptor.

it does.

The rad shrouding fore and aft of the element is still stock, and apart from that I cant of seen them putting much effort into things. Previously open blade fans were run with zero shrouding. We're talking very basic assumptions here and I fail to see how it would interupt the stock...

If your putting an OEM stud into a catcam then you dont want to be bottoming it out to torque it. If you do then the install height will be 5mm shorter than it should. Install it to the same height as a stock cam (you can just put the cams nose to nose and measure till they butt up). Use...

Keep it stock and recirculate or fit your own catch can.

Proximity issues are only around the aux support hardware/alternator. Clearance around the rad shroud/slam panel/bonnet is 'sufficient'. And I can almost assure you 100% that zerfo CFD work has done into airflow control in the engine bay lol......It hasnt changed in 20 years.

I dont read pfc............lol

I dont know how well that will go without full wideband logging. And i'm not sure how well the ignition map will go via remote mapping as the VE curve will be significantly different to anything else running on a stock injection system. Which means an investment into logging equipment for the...

paul has his own little gizmo box which he can send out to people.

Didnt say they weren't. Just thought his original question was about a smaller/lighter rad thats all.

Reflashing will be on offer, but with a generic map. As with anything, a custom one from paul will reap the best rewards.

Thank you.

I think you underestimate just how tight it is lol. A rizla i would consider a gap.

They work.....but my god they dont half make a terrible noise. I still prefer the B over the K by a large margin....but the B is still a product of the early 80's.

The OEM item is plastic and ally.......:S And when your moving at speed, the rad isnt actually working that hard at shifting the heat.

I dont really know just how bad or good it'll drive without a remap, its never been tried.

Come down, sit with me and poke. There is not much I can do no matter whom I hassle. And keep this thread clean, PM me if needed.