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@gudger12345 : Nearly finished by the looks of it . Looks pukka David

Make sure the Crank pulley isn’t perished and slipping causing the load on the belt to cause slow turning . Just a thought.

It’s for the clutch switch by the looks of it , for vehicles that have cruise control . I assume yours doesn’t have it ?

I’d put a crank pulley on it while you’re doing the belt . Sounds very chirpy that noise.

Been working on a full length version of the fuel line , testing it begins this week . See how it goes .

It’s not an exciter wire , it’s a wire that’s needed to control the Alternator / battery warning lamp . The alternators that are self excited from within the unit only have 1 small wire in the black connector . If you have 2 small wires only then is one an exciter , normally the older Renault...

Just a heads up guys and gals , I make these fuel lines from the fuel rail to the connection under the drivers floor / subframe area . I’ve made the first one and will undergo testing very soon . Not sure if anyone has seen my repair fuel pipe before , but having 1 customer send me a message...

There are repair pieces that would have sorted the original pipe . like a cut and push fit pressure fitting. unlucky that it happened in the first place , pesky rodents . Glad you sorted it .

If pins 7 , 13 , 82 are what you are using then , that‘ll be fine , but I guess the only way you’ll know is by viewing the TPS live info in the tuning software. Even thou ME have suggested different pins to be used , if your pin 13 signal input doesn’t register , then I would pin swap it to...

First of all I think you have the wrong PG TPS sensor , I might be wrong , but all you need is 3 pin one . If a 4 pin is what’s arrived on the throttle bodies then that’s what we will run with then , but I would still double check it is correct or not. With regards to pin 43 , 71 , 87 , those...

I will take a look and get back to you. Every time I see a post about throttle body TPS sensor I get excited 😆 lol . only kidding , I have some info somewhere as I run a ME221 also but a Ph1 , same as @KitsonRis

Stock engine with with 438 cams and DTH Ktec ITB’s made 197 bhp and 152lb/ft Then with the cams retimed to 421 position the torque was so much higher , it made 197.2bhp and 172ft/lb torque.

@green . In the process , but the little washers fell out after taking out the rubbers as they need to be swapped over from the 172/182 MC. Any ideas if the go back in to the front intake of the MC.

Take the connection off the headlight motors and see if the noise stops . H/lamp washers not being connected won’t cause this noise you are hearing.

Sorry to see the car go Mark , do you think your decision was helped by the fact that we are getting older and a Clio just doesn’t cut it anymore ? Be interesting to know your view and others actually.

I’ve seen the butterfly start to catch the runner which in turn with give a similar fault .

Seems I have it different to Ktec Do this first please check the signal wire only. Easy way to find out is to continuity back to pin 43 on the ecu which is the signal wire , that pin has not changed its location at all so that is still the valid signal wire from tps . Note the colour beige or...

I switched over to EHPAS now Jon , works really well I find . But that’s a great shout on wiring it up to the ecu . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The sensor located on the rack is a torque sensor. Not needed as the epas conversion utilises the rotation resistance knob to achieve the same operation.

If you pull off the coolant temp sensor , the ecu detects the open circuit and activates the fan control circuit. This would help in wiggling the wires about and checking for poor contacts , and then hopefully it will spring back into life. Easiest way would be to trigger the relay with a...

So this is what I’ve worked out your Ktec tps to be. I cross references the connector with one I have used on mine. What I would suggest is before going permanently, grab your multi meter and test the wire outputs from the ecu. Measure 5v on the orange wire Earth on the white wire and...

I do have the info you require , as I have been through exactly what you are going through. I will get it and report back . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I see in your PIN number diagram , pin 68 fuel pump control has not been asked to be moved. It deffo needs moving. ph1 and ph2 control from diff pins . Gen90 is a Ph2 based ecu . You need to move pin 68 to pin 9. Then it’ll prime . Another thing you’ll need to poss do is , in the software...

Fuel pipe on the drivers side into the rail is the feed pipe.

Secured mine with a cable tie , no issues at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have my battery in the boot , helps free up a lot of space . Is that an option for you to consider? Next to the coolant bottle is a good place as others have mentioned . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would personally remove the dog bone mount & o/s driveshaft as those off can give the engine a lot more lift without any worry of damage to anything . The main area you need clearance is around the oil pump sprocket , so with more clearance it’ll be so much easier than struggling with limited...

First things first , you’ll need to confirm the sensor(s) are working first , I know how can 2 be not working . Then after that’s confirmed , it’s the wiring to the ecu and then that should be it . Any pics of the sensor you are using .

Did you sort this issue yet ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk