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Great results, proper old school panel beating, most of these new cheap places would run a mile from repairing something like that, this is proof you get what you pay for. My boss is the same, the things he's repaired instead of replaced to keep costs down at customer's request amazes even me...
Yeah major difference, boosts harder and holds onto it for longer in the rev range as well as the obvious increased power and torque. Best modification you can do to one is map it, I say it a lot but it transforms the car.
I run Bluefin on mine, good thing is its a piece of piss to do yourself and you get stage 2/3 included in the price if you want to go that far. Their stage 1 is a little "conservative" compared to others gains wise, but that also means its easier on the clutch.
Use something with a pointy end to dab it into the area you're touching up. Tooth pick is a good suggestion, I usually just roll up some masking tape into a long cone shape and use the pointy end of that.
Looks lovely.
What map you going for? You won't regret mapping it, just remember to not use full boost under 3k rpm in 5th or 6th as a general rule once mapped, clutch killing territory!
The old bonnet may have been damaged at some point for whatever reason and they've just replaced it.
Before you panic, no that doesn't necessarily mean it's been smashed Lol.
White on white looks superb.
Supplying dealer Stirling AC by any chance? Sure I saw this lying in their yard pre delivery when I was in there with mine.
To me it sounds like it's already had the bonnet replaced at some point, they're not prone to rusting/peeling as standard.
Once the rust sets in its always going to come back, new/second hand bonnet is probably the best option if you plan on keeping it for a while.
Re: Cambelt Con/Rip off tactics.
I thought the OP was a complete idiot when he started slavering pish in a recent bodywork thread, now I see from this thread he is in fact a troll/idiot hybrid.
Since when did you go for Molten Orange, weren't you getting blue?
MO is the hero's choice, just a shame you appear to have taken those pics with a Nokia 3310 Lol :o
Just stick both spade connectors into connector on the back of the standard bulb. That's what I did in my projector lights on my 200 and it worked fine.
It's a bumper off job btw.
Headlights need to be off first btw, so if you've had them on auto either flick them to off or open the door first.
Or at least they did on my 59 plate Lol.
Once you turn the car off, pull the stalk for full beams and the headlights will come on for a bit, think its 30 seconds per pull. It shows up on the trip computer how long they'll stay on for when you do it IIRC.
See me home lights are standard on the 200.
Cup chassis and Recaros are essential options IMO. Everything else can be added later fairly easily, like I did with mine.
I may have said it in this thread already but I'd definitely go for a deep bronze or dark purple if it was my choice. You want a colour that stands out but is still dark enough to properly show off the finish in the lacquer, seeing as it'll essentially be another advertisement for your business...
So the bodyshop is only going to charge for the time they've spent sorting the dent out, then just throw in the materials, paint, running costs of the booth and the painter's labour for free?
Have you had a black roof repaired and part sprayed then?
FLOL. I don't know where to begin with that. Even if you were to only part spray the roof it's a lot more than an hours work :S
The guy wants his new car repaired properly. Not a £500 shed half arsed with some rattle tins.