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The first ones have been replaced with a custom set. They were too long as they are more rally based. AVO replaced them for nothing so can't complain about that at all. I have only had a quick test at Curborough so only about 5 minutes worth but these do feel a lot better, than those I used at...

That lighter part at the bottom of the pic is a separate helper spring. Used on some coilovers when the damper is longer than the spring.

Were your rear tyres hot?

Just that 18mm on the bracket. Tighten both sides a bit at a time, to reduce the chance of them spinning too far round. The angle bracket will turn with the bolt. You'll see what I mean when you do it. Edit: You'll need to undo the droplink too and remove the top bush iirc obviously

Are the 90° elbows the correct way round? If not you only need to loosen them to spin through 180 to correct it. Seen it on quite a few of them.

Better to turn the nut on the rear whilst just holding the torx on the front, rather than just trying to turn the torx head when removing the bolts as the head can strip. The originals can be reused but probably better to buy the new set.

You'll have to run it up to temp and see. Worth checking the expansion bottle for cracks and the cap for leaks. Otherwise you're just going to have to look for drips from hose joints or cracks in hoses etc

Decent pads and brake fluid and that's it. You can spend all the money in the world, it doesn't make it any more fun and there will still be somebody faster. To make any real difference weightwise, you need to go the whole hog with poly windows and lighter panels. Just taking the rear seats out...

MSA spec is more than enough for UK club racing. Only needs to be FIA in the event of your club doing the odd event at Spa etc (which does sometimes happen but not very often)

You can do it anytime but can't get your licence until passed obviously. I did mine with MSV and did it there on the day at Oulton. But iirc had to book it in advance.

Nothing to worry about. You go through the DVD with the examiner and they almost give you the answers. It's all about safety so generally go with the safest answer where applicable. Then the driving is just showing that you can drive safely on track and aware of others. You don't even need to...

My thoughts too. Seems like they've adopted the phrase "If you can't beat em, bash em out the way"

No don't think it is. Just a recommendation iirc

Yeah just where there is a chance of you hitting in a crash/roll. So beside and above you basically. I have on my side above the windscreen, top of door bars, A and B posts.

There's usually 3 or 4 at least now.

Definitely for a good budget friendly race series, good friendly bunch of racers who will help you out. I only moved over to Pre 05 because I could be a front runner with only a little more outlay. It's good that we have these choices. My next progression would have probably been into Prod Plus...

That's the 750 MC 182 Championship Steve. They seem to have got a bit more boystrous recently. Rubbin isn't racin but barging through is iirc.

http://www.cliosport.net/threads/adams-budget-racing-thread.710683/page-12#post-11197918

So no awards at Shelsley but even having missed 3rd gear and just getting neutral, I still managed a PB so at least that was a positive to take away. Prescott again next weekend and then the hillclimb season ends at Loton Park on 24/25th of September. Final CTCRC Pre 05 race is at Silverstone on...

Tricolore Prod or Prod Plus or CTCRC Pre 05. The CTCRC one is halfway between the two Tricolore Classes. My car will be for sale very soon and is a front runner/potential winner in Pre 05. Also won in Tricolore Production Class before minor upgrades, could easily be downgraded again in a day.

Numbers aren't really the correct style but you should be ok. They should really be mounted as per MSA regs on a white background. Only certain championships run the dayglo style.

P Zeros are fine to begin with.

Standard setup with minor brake upgrade is perfectly acceptable for track. If you search on here for Tricolore Trophy or indeed my "budget racing thread" you will see that there is a production class for standardish cars, so proof that they are capable. Obviously it goes without saying, spend...

Weld in is generally slightly better, if a bit more hassle to fit. OMP also do a bolt in

The first one on Safety Devices site (the 16 model) is the MSA spec one. Speak to Mark Fish about them. Custom Cages one is what I have. I would definitely get an MSA spec one, as it makes the car more appealing when selling.

You can just use your fog lights as they comply.

Yes generally they are like so: There is the red knob that can be twisted by the driver, connected to the switch behind the dash. Attached to that red handle is a pull cord. Like you say a bit like a bicycle brake cable. That pull cord is the other end of the red pull handle fitted by your...

There is one actual switch behind the dash with a knob that twists to operate the switch.. Then there is like you say, a cable which is connected to the switch from the outside. Pulling that cable operates the same switch.

You only need one. It just has two pull cables/buttons off it, so one for the cabin and one for the marshalls.

It's "about" 3/4 generally. Entirely down to the tester.