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I was unsure if that was sunflower yellow, looks a bit bright I thought (they usually fade). I'm just up the road and may go and look at the code on the driver's door to find out. But really a 17 year old RS Clio isn't worth it and the dealer seems like a plonker.
Only way to find out is to go and see it in the metal. It's surprising how different people are when describing good or average cars. I expect a lot of Trophy's and 172 Cups advertised at £5-6k and £3k respectively are pretty shot (assuming you know what to look for). You can also find bargains...
I'll get it all done, I just need to find somewhere good who will do it. One place I took it to said they'd fit box sections to it like a 5 Turbo, needless to say I declined!
Restore the bodywork so it's rear arches and the front bumper (both sections), then straighten the bent sills where they collapse on jacking and re-shultz the underside.
The people who were going to restore my Ph1 172 (ALSA in South Wales who look after one of the BTCC cars) can't do it now due to illness so I need someone else instead to do it. Has anyone else restored a Ph1's body back to a high standard and therefore has a good place to recommend. It doesn't...
I don't know why people waste time trying to clean these ropey things, they are worn out after 17 years of use and should be binned. Just order a new one from Renault Wolverhampton (they're on Ebay) or buy another car. Hope that helped :tonguewink:
Take it on an airfield, set up some cones and then find just how easy it is to spin. Learn the limits of the car off road. We ran lots of airfield days for Clios including the Vees for several years at Smeatharpe in Devon, all for £20 a day. If only we had access to that site now.
No, I hope not. The board looks fine, no cracks or anything I can see. I put it back together and this time it works. I will cary both keys with me for a time and see what happens.
Any advice appreciated, I followed the guide after soldering on a new micro switch http://www.cliosport.net/threads/how-to-sync-your-central-locking-with-your-key-new-key.585981/#post-7817632 . The key opens the car fine but I can't start the engine and the immobilizer light on the dash doesn't...
I've owned my Ph1 172 since 2004. I think about changing it quite often so I can have something which is turbocharged and I can get more power. I can't change it as the Clio is what it is: it's cheap to fix (if you do most of it yourself and comparing the parts prices to say a Megane), it gets...
Why isn't there the same problem with the electronic throttle bodies on later 172/182s, I thought the motor is just doing the doing the same thing by operating the butterfly from one side?
^^^^what he says.
These cars are knocking on a bit now so some parts are just wearing out and need to be replaced with new. I bought a new one, works brilliantly again.
Cheers. Funny thing is though that when I looked at some fancy pants hoses from Samco the set for 172/182s excluded 172 Ph1s. Renault person at Parts Direct today has been also trying to find the answer. I called Mick at Diamond but he's shut up for Crimbo, too. They're not much to buy so I'll...
Sorry, not much help then. Do keep adding to the wanted request with 'anyone?' to keep it high up so people see it. Also try sending a message to Budgie, he might have a bit like this knocking about. Other than that I'd be walking round the biggest local scrap yard looking for a Clio pre-2001...
I replaced mine with new o-rings any will do from a car accessories shop. I scuba dive so have plenty of o-rings (they are used on our air tanks).
My blower motor is also weak and I believe it is most likely to be the electrical pack. It's just behind the motor under the scuttle and Renault...
The system is connected to the ignition switch (obviously - doh!) and it's probably a short. If you take the cowl off from the steering column there are four fat wires going to the ignition switch. On mine I think either the red wire or earth has a short which stops the rear wipe and reversing...