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The thread on the bolts are really easy to strip so the torque setting is low. I can find it on dialogys if you wish, but my best advice is to do them up finger tight and then just add a 1/4 turn extra. See if that works, but if there are leaks (the engine revs won't settle if there is an air...

Nope. Just bolted it straight on. The arm was in exactly the right place. Make sure it has the same part number as the original. Cheers

I should add - there is a version of the throttle body you can use on the ph1 that Renault fitted to the Megane. I has an extra brass tube on the base. The part numbers are the same though. It's what I have now and as I said, it works just great.

Ideally, compare it to another ph1. My bet is that the throttle body is the problem. I say that because on mine the throttle was sticky and in the past I tried cleaning it, dismantling it completely, greasing up the spline, fitting a new throttle cable and re-routing the cable to make it feel...

I got mine from GSF after shopping around. 21 mm ring spanner required, very easy and don't overtighten it. Remove fuel rail guard first - requires deep sockets, 10 mm and 13mm.

One other thought: it isn't modified or anything daft like that is it (e.g. coilovers or wheels that are not designed for that car)?

I don't think I'd personally have paid to have had a cambelt change before sorting out such a big problem like this. Check the tyres carefully and wheels (including wheel alignment). If it is banging on the footwell check the exhaust (the manifold to cat section bolts and springs become seized...

Stop messing around with it now - go to Rentech or Ktec and get it sorted.;)

Re: Upper gearbox mount- turning upper nut looks like its going to rip the rubber mou 18mm

Thanks everyone. A thick nail cut down in size should do it. Sorted.

Not quite, cutting out at juncs - yes; but no speedo issues. The speedo is connected to the gearbox via a sensor. Check the lead is pushed in far enough first before doing anything else. If you look down the back of the engine below the throttle body you'll see it. You need a long 21 mm socket.

Number 063 battery, defo right for a Ph1 172. A mystery TBH, I should have taken it back. I'll live with it now and try to find a way to get a better fit.

Yes, it may cure it. Clean it with carburettor cleaner. I only cured this on my Ph1 172 by fitting a new ICV. The steering issue is caused by the sensor at the front of the engine bay on the power steering pipe (I mean the upper sensor that gets in the way when removing the oil filter). I've...

As tight as possible but the terminals are thinner.

Anyone else had this problem? I've bought a new battery for the 172 and the terminals are smaller compared to the previous battery so now the two connectors don't attach very tightly. Is there a way to fix this? Amazing that there isn't a standard size fitted to them all!

Drilled and grooved discs will be non standard. Standard front discs from Brembo (high carbon ones) cost about £50 a pair - I'd replace the front discs personally with these, fit the brake lines MarkCup suggested and standard OEM pads (or DS2500s if possible).

Fubar guide in the guides section explains the basics of it. Make sure that both front wheels are off the ground (or else you fight against the force of the roll bar!). Easy enough but a bit fiddly getting the strut over the CV joint. Support the hub on the N/S to stop the drive shaft coming out...

I thought you needed to depressurise the system first by taking out the 30 amp fuse in the engine bay and trying to start the engine for a few seconds?

Millers XFS - cheaper than Fuchs and a pretty good oil, buy it from Opie if you can't get it locally.

5L is fine as you probably won't get all the old coolant out. I use only 0.5 L of brake fluid so 1 L is fine (throw the remainder away). Get an oil filter, too.