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That pas tank does not look empty to me, when cold the fluid should just be below the two prongs on the filter. You can pull that filter out of the tank and inspect the fluid, if it’s dirty get it changed. Don’t run it without the filter or it’ll spurt out the cap

Does anyone find that theirs gets a little oil/grimy around where the gearbox seal/boot is clipped to the bearing on the N/S shaft? It doesnt drip oil but it does seem to have a bit of greasy oil residue on it. ive replaced the boot with a new one and a new clip on the bearing done with a...

seemingly ever 3 weeks at the moment with the driveshaftshaft problems ive been having. When its behaving 18 months/2 years using millers synthetic trx 75w80

Not too sure it was about 3 year ago I last used this place for ball joints so could have been old stock

Usually they supply QH stuff which I’ve not had a problem with It’s rubbed away parts of the ABS ring teeth but it still works with no lights on the dash thankfully.

“Continental direct” apparently. I doubt they are anything to do with the tyre manufacturer?

Not with this so far it would seem. I’m just curious what the hell that ball joint is for, they even asked me in the motorfactors is it the ten or twelve mm holes so I assumed by saying 12 it’d be all good. Back on the old ball joint now which this new one has donated its dust cover to. Luckily...

Ball joint completely incorrect by the looks of it, way too tall. Have swapped it now

The pinch bolt went in fine though, I wouldn’t have thought it would have gone in at all without the cut out in the right place?

Replaced a ball joint on my 182 yesterday after noticing a split boot in the month old one [emoji24] Anyway I noticed the replaced ball joint this morning that the there are witness marks on the abs ring where the ball joint has been rubbing on it, it’s taken a touch off the ring so it no...

maybe post up some pictures of the shaft/outer cv when you pick it up? Seems that any photos of parts so people can make comparisons are very thin on the ground with this topic

So you are another person to add to this list of J&R faulty crap and non refunds :(

ill have to remember that site - is it legit? They dont seem to have a business address on the site

160 is a good price from a motor factors!

Save yourself a lot of heartache and buy a genuine renault shaft from Ktec. Two of us on here have had problems with left hand side shafts from J&R in the past 2/3 months and id hate to see someone else be potentially ripped off too by their woeful service and products.

Had some spare time today so I stripped down the old Renault oem shaft and j&r shaft along with removing the outer cv joints from both as I wanted to see if anything was interchangeable and if I could perhaps make a hybrid of the two if possible. However that plan was a no go as the j&r cv joint...

Have checked the crank pulley it looks sound. I poured a litre of clean warm water on the belt (thinking that if the tensioner is seized it’s going to squeak like mad with water on it). It didn’t do that, however it seems to have stopped the squeaking altogether! All I did today was remove the...

Just a bit of advice wanted, my 182 has developed a permanent squeak from what I think is the aux belt area. It’s had the odd squeak on startup that belt area for a bit however this was generally only on very damp days. Anyway came to it today I seem to be getting a permanent and constant...

Ah right my apologies there then I misunderstood

You bought another j&r shaft? Mine still not been returned yet

look at the state of that 3 month old drive shaft in the video. Thats top quality cnc machined 10k rpm tested engineering right there

Could be mate, I’ve got standard mounts other than a purple powerflex dog bone so it’ll be absorbing some of the vibrations. I didn’t even notice the vibration on the first test drive as I didn’t breach 40mph Whatever the end result though something is up with these shafts and j&r won’t...

Just Normal relatively recently changed 182 cup shocks for me In regards to the binding I tried turning the wheel( by hand only) with the hub nut quite loose, just nipped up tight, and done up properly to spec. It may no noticeable difference I did lay the j&r shaft next to a standard shaft...

Is your inner one torn too? If not probably worth keeping the original there Also if it were torn you’d not have much box oil left [emoji23] I put a universal rubber boot on the outer cv 6 years ago and it only has just gone through, they rub together on the pleats and degrade but all in 6...

My vibrations were a little different to yours but that resistance to turning sounds exactly like mine. I suppose If you are looking for cv boots why not cannibalise the j&r shaft? Although the outer one is rubber so won’t last as long as the proper plastic Renault ones. That’s what I’ll...

Doubtful mate, after all it only sits in the diff and when torqued to spec on the wheel bearing end what else can be done wrong? When you fitted it and you turn the passenger wheel by hand could you feel some resistance every revolution? When I did so I could see the shock compressing a few mm...

Sounds like that’s what they reel off every time to me then, he’s probably got the wording typed up ready! Trading standards really should be involved here they are in breach of the consumer goods act 2015

That’s the thing isn’t it, it’s just not worth the aggro for the cost of the shaft. I only took it back as I could knock off work an hour early and drop it to them as I was under 10 miles away. I bet they blamed “incorrect fitting” didn’t they?

No they won’t cover postage to return it, they are on a trading estate by brum airport not far from where BTM used to be