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Bloody hell, always the simplest of things we overlook because we assume it's all correct. Glad it's sorted bud!

Spill the beans then lol

The laguna 2.0 is the f4r engine but the smaller engines are a completely different type. Also are you willing to sell the air con pump as mines not working, I think (and hope) it's a wiring issue but if not I'd be interested in yours assuming it works OK?

Definitely not considering its pretty much rust welded shut and crumbles before getting the hammer out to remove the old sensor, but glad your sorted buddy it's such an annoying thing :(

I started doing that and used a set that goes on a drill from Halfords and under the cotton it had a screw that came out and I made it 10x worse lol!

Well there you go at least you got 2 problems sorted and the pad was definitely the main one to sort buddy :) give cruise a try at some point and work from there

If you run the pads too low it can cause problems if the piston travels too far have a look at them mate

Head could case a problem depending on where it's split as you could be losing cylinder pressure in say your water resistant tank/radiator so therefore may not have enough pressure to ignite it, and as it heads up the gap/leak may get tighter. But as said before they are a really lumpy runner...

I've had never ending ones from small to large but I can't get rid of it! I suppose they are around d 12 years old and probably had a harder time than most normal cars being what they are lol, my pads fell out 3 times and then I couldn't stop! Pedal went to the floor and I pooped myself coming...

There's also one on the clutch pedal but I've never heard of anyone replacing it

It's a two part switch and I believe only the brake light part shows a code which disables the abs, but as far as I'm aware the second part doesn't. I'm 99% sure I'm right on this too buddy which is always worth bearing in mind, but you'll only find out by replacing it unfortunately. I just...

Not necessarily, but it's one of those things that you will never know unfortunately. The fog lamps did cause me an abs fault to do with the switch but doesn't mean yours is. Basically that pedal switch senses when you break to cancel out the cruise so your not breaking while its trying to...

Before buying new leads plugs and possibly a coil check them. Run the car and hold the plug/lead with something that won't give you a shock and you should see it spark and generally you can hear it too. Sometimes I put it near the inlet manifold and you can see it jump across, I don't know if...

Could be the break pedal switch. It's a 2 part switch one part does the abs and break light and the other part controls the speed restriction/cruise. I don't know if it would flag up the abs fault if it was just the cruise part broken, but will flag a fault up if the break light abs side goes...

break pedal switch? fuse? do you have an abs fault?

Exactly what jb21 said which is a lot clearer than mine. While plugged in to clip get one person to spin the wheels while on live data looking at wheel speed and see if it shows anything. If both rear wheels show similar readings it's not the rear abs sensors or loom. If one or neither show data...

And the 4 cables I cut was the 4 closest to drivers side, but beware your plug could be upside-down to mine. Also this may not even be your problem but if it is it's an easier fix than replacing a sensor! And easier on the wallet too!

The plug is about 20 inches back from the engine bay, follow the rear abs sensor cables up the chassis and you'll find it. It also has one of the lambda sensors going into it IIRC should be an 8 pin plug but as I mentioned it looked fine inside on mine but checking the resistance at the sensors...

I definitely recommend getting that plug checked underneath by the subframe as mentioned, people may have seen my thread from about 2 months ago. it looked fine in there, was tight and sealed and the abs connections looked perfect. I was 100% it wasn't this. I then replaced everything and still...

the hardest one I did was on a c25xe v6 in an old 1997 tigra :D that was fun! ill give myself plenty of time and just get the wheel arch out and headlight out and possibly jack the engine up for extra fiddling room :)

again I'm assuming once I bolt the new tensioner on just use this to compress the spring and slip the belt on? same as nearly every other car by the sounds of it? reading old threads make it seem so much more complicated than it seems thanks I'm definitely considering a tool

I'm replacing the tensioner and wheel/s as I'm buying a kit, I assume the 3/8 socket is just for belt replacement to slacken the tensioner to remove the belt if it all wasn't being replaced? also is it worth replacing it all as I'm just in habit of doing cam/aux belts just buy a kit and replace...

Hi, I've seen a lot of threads about the jubilee method and haven't actually got under the bonnet yet to even see what I'm looking at. I got a 182 with air con as I assume the setup is different from what I've read. is the tool worth getting as I plan on doing this myself then my mate who works...

I got the one in the link I posted up there and it's a good match, as was mentioned the brush is quite thick but I used a fine artist brush for bigger marks and small chips or fine scratches I used a cocktail stick and just went really careful with it and I'm happy with the results

OK usually if the dash lights come on without moving it's generally a sensor fault of some kind as this gets found on its self check when you key on. I had the problem before when you push the brake pedal down it would slightly light the fog light icon on the dash up, where this was a loose...

A normal old won't show up abs faults unfortunately you'll need a proper body scanner. Check the rings for any dirt or grease firstly especially the one you had a problem with the boot as it only needs to clog in one recess between teeth, it could just be a coincidence and could be a different...

Haha if that's the case I believe if you get in while its going off and turn the ignition on it should disarm it if clicking the fob won't work, you may just look like a their for 15 seconds lol

Yeah I got the 16mm rings on the shaft as they can't do any harm as far as I'm aware as long as they are under the sensor. Definitely check that loom I mentioned above its right by the front subframe and the rear lambda sensor goes into it so it's easy to find. Mine looked clean and if I ran...

Jb21, yes if you have a failed sensor it will disable your abs system and light up on the dash. As far as I'm aware if your abs lights stay on when you turn the ignition it's either a sensor fault or a supply fault (like I had). If it comes on after moving the wheel it's usually the steering...

Chalk is a brilliant idea :) and thanks Tony hopefully I won't keep losing the back end after a few hard laps if I can get this right lol