Search results

Nobody reverted back to standard before?

Doesn't look like any of the usual suspects I've searched for. Looking to revert back to standard but not a clue what I need and can't find anything on the original parts.

B-road blaster is its primary function anyway. I'd never fancy a track day for fear of binning a car.

I'm just curious as to how the roadster is compared to the coupé. I know they're not the lightest but I'd hope you could still take them on some twisty roads and have fun.

On the 3rd car note, what about a 350Z convertible?

I'm on Goodyear Eagles and can't fault them.

Christ as low as that? I paid £5k for it only last October.

I think you have my budget confused with someone better off! M5 is the one non-negotiable. Apart from loving it, I've spent so much on it I have to get my worth out of it. :grimacing:

Any excuse to post a picture...

Only thing with them is their values have gone up have they not? I'd be thinking £5k tops but preferably lower come next Summer. The third generation MX5 was ticking the box as it's modern enough, cheap to run and looks like a decent place to sit with things like heated seats, ESP and climate...

In what way exactly? The previous owner has fitted a whiteline ARB, scorpion exhaust, strut brace, short shift kit (which I really don't like) and had it remapped. Yes the M5 is 'the daily' as it were but it is akin to burning money in terms of maintenance. Part of the idea of a third car is to...

I've been wondering if it makes more sense to buy a regular 182 and tweak the set-up with a good set of coilovers rather than put a lot of miles on something as rare as the Trophy, whilst freeing up an extra ~£2k in the process. Has anyone sampled a tweaked 182 in direct comparison? My Trophy...

Not selling just now but might consider next year, ideally not. 84k miles cambelt, aux belt, dephaser and water pump done this year front shocks refurbished 2 years ago at cornering force 4 Goodyears all round with 5k miles on them Scorpion exhaust, short shift kit, remap, strut brace...

Is there a consensus on Trophy prices? It's hard to know what cars are actually selling for as opposed to what they're advertised for.

That's what I'm asking about, what parts will I need to revert to standard?

Someone must have dabbled with fitting a short shift kit shirley?

To add to that, what do I need to revert back to the standard gearshift? All I've got to go on is the previous owner fitting 'a stiff shift kit and short shift linkage' but not sure what I'll need to buy.

Reviving this as a bit of an issue again but with 4th to 3rd. The car has always done this occasionally in my ownership but I went for a spirited drive up North today and 9/10 times when trying to downshift from 4th to 3rd while heel and toeing I couldn't get third. There's no crunch or...

Ok cheers. Seems an odd one to have!

I've always meant to ask this, never been able to find it in the manual. There's a symbol in the OBC that has a marker.......then the symbol of a car with the letter 'g' above it. What on earth does it mean? It's always in single digits.

Here are a couple of videos from the past week or so showing it slightly hesitant to start if that helps-

I was maybe premature in thinking it was temperature related. It's been in the garage I use all the time for my M5 and they can't find anything wrong with it, started fine for them although they aren't Renault specialists.

This might have also been the odd, loud rattle I've heard when hitting large potholes at speed, it was completely loose.

Couldn't see any bolts at a glance, cheers!

and why is mine loose?

Nowhere near the area but the National Tyres I've used has always done them at £10 a wheel for me cash.

Hadn't fired the car up for a week and it started without any hesitation today in the heat. At least I know it's definitely temperature related. Any idea why the carbon cannister would affect starting in cold weather only?

Anyone?

How hard are we talking here? I have a replacement grill to fit to mine but it's rather tight, so much so it feels like something's going to break before it'll come off. Is it a safer bet to take the bumper off?

Could that be temperature related/intermittent? It doesn't just work or fail completely does it?