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If you have a spare plug for the dephaser, you can put the old one in and use that to turn the engine.

if this happened aafter replacing the handbrake cables check the routing of the cables and make sure all the plugs are slotted into the frame properly otherwise one will pull while the other will only pull slightly. It is possible to have damaged the compensator if you've been driving aroud with...

Sounds like the aux belt has snapped. The battery light comes on when the alternator is not charging, and the power steering is also run off the same belt.

Most likely alignment is out then, I would get it re-aligned to stop it scrubbing the tyres bald in a few thousand miles.

It sounds like very bad scrubbing due to alignment. It could stop doing it once the tyres are warm and the rubber softens up, and it could stop doing it in the wet as the water makes it more slippery.

Quick update, I checked the uj there is no play, the steering is immediate and has no play at all. I had the front tyres changed last week and the problem went away. However, over 200 miles it gradually returned just as it did when I changed the control arm balljoints. I am baffled.

Or if every time you change the oil, you find the undertray is handy for producing opitimal coverage of old oil on the garage floor. Bin is the best place for it, it doesnt provide any bracing or anything for anything.

It's 100% tight and seated. I think I will get it tracked again just to be sure. Do you know if some amount of radial play in the rack itself is normal when wiggling the steering wheel around the neutral position?

I actually had the wrong one to start with, but didn't notice until I had the old rod out, so I put the old one back on and went back to eurcarparts to get the right one for the SMI rack and the trouble started then, I assumed it was because the tracking would be badly out now that I had messed...

As in the rack mounting bushes to the subframe? Tbh the amount of movement in it is what I would expect from a car coming off the factory floor, theres not much at all. The fact that the car was fine before changing the trackrod, and then immediately after I dropped it back down and took it out...

I;ve had a look at the rack bushes, while there is very slight movement there, it's only the movement of the bushes squashing.

Yes I replaced both sides, I replaced them because one had slight movement in it making it pointless for me to track it after getting new tyres. However, it was handling spot on before I replaced them even with that slight movement in the drivers side trackrod balljoint. Once I replaced them...

I had it put on a hunter after replacing the balljoints and TRE's. Unfortunately it didn't fix the issue either. The car has also just gone through it's MOT just yesterday with no advisories, no play detected

I'm having an issue with the car wandering around the road when I hit bumps, even if it is just the white markers in between lanes the car pulls to the side when the wheels pass over them. The problem started when I replaced the trackrod on the drivers side and it's not been right since. I've...

Does it have an airleak in the inlet?

Budgie has it spot on, rods won't bent over time, they bend instantly as a result of a major failure such as pistons hitting valves due to cambelt failure or improper fitting.

I'm not to sure what switching various parts around and whatnot would cause, but assuming having the incorrect parts fitted isn't causing the problem, it would most likely be an air leak in the inlet somewhere I would imagine. You could spray it with soapy water and see if it sucks it in somewhere.

You say the engine wont turn over when bump starting as something is stopping it, that something wont be the immobaliser, it will be something internally. Ideally you should try turning it over by cranking it clockwise on the crank pulley bolt, if it wont turn over then you can save spending...

I may be wrong but doesn't the fuel light come on when you get below 45miles of calculated range left or something? Could it be that you've thrashed it, and now its down to low mpg, so the calculated fuel left is showing under 44 miles, even though you have more fuel than it usually comes on at...

I have never been in the trade but my old man has been a fleet engineer for 30 years and I wont even let him near mine without supervision! I think some techniques just become normalised when you're used to working on something that isn't yours..as long as the end result is a machine that...

This should be first port of call.

Arn't those stupid e-torx bolts? lol fun, you could angle grind each side flat and get a spanner on it, cut the head off and use a stud extractor..take it to a professional I would.

Not sure what it is, probably waterpump or alternator, but mine likes to do this every winter and is doing it this winter for 20 seconds after start up..I just don't worry about it until the belt start squealing or it does it all the time.

I use a large zip tie and yank it as hard as I can with a set of pliers, cost about 2p.

Yea best had, just pull one of the trminals off the battery. With regard to the op's question, do you have any window warping speakers installed or some other power hungry gizmo? Some of the systems I see installed I sometimes wonder how the car manages to remain running let alone start back up.

It's the symbol that looks like ->|- just put the red lead to the positive of the alternator and the black lead to the housing of it, it should read 0, or 1. If it reads above the diode is going/shot.

If you have any old crappy multimeter it should have a diode checker on it, it should read low one way and higher the other way.

Take the wheel off and have a mate pump the brake, then whatever is making the noise grease up.

When it went on so tight I started to doubt it was right so double checked and realised it was wrong, it then went on even tighter the correct way around

I have managed to route the aux belt the wrong way in a moment of stupidity.