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A worn dephaser won't cause any damage to the engine unless it catastrophically fails. That is the worst sounding dephaser I've ever heard though, will need doing as soon as you can!

Your taking it to the wrong people really, mechanics don't generally know much about automotive electronics, you should take it to an automotive electrician who will most likely be able to find the fault. The fact that it works then doesn't, then kicks back in to life again could suggest a lead...

Oh right I assumed you didn't know what a thermostat housing would look like rather than you just haven't looked. The thermostat housing is on the right hand side of the engine, with all the pipes going in to it. on the side is a bleed screw (literally a bolt, that's the same as the bolts...

Mines red. Tbh as long as you don't mix the stuff you can stick anything in that says IOA on it, the proper coolant recommended by renault is type D though. Without trying to sound rude, probably best to just leave it if you don't know where the thermostat housing is, especially since you need...

What is you want to know, how to fill up the cooling system? Just open the bleed screw on the thermostat housing and fill it up through the expension bottle until it comes out. Close bleed screw and run engine at ~2000 rpm until the the cooling fan kicks in. Shut engine off, top up the expansion...

I know. I think as long as it's tie clipped to enter the groove at both ends of the fuel tank, the tie clip on the actual snapped clip is more just to keep it in place and doesn't come under much stress when the handbrake is applied. If there is an actual fix for this, aside from replacing the...

I had this issue, it has the effect of making the cable longer. I tie clipped it up to the fuel pipe above the beam and somewhere else which I can't remember now to try and make it follow the tank underneath as much as possible. I also tie clipped it to what was left of the white hanger that...

Normally it wouldn't because the cams rotate once per 2 revolutions of the crank, but the locking tool doesn't lock them at dead on 180 with the cams the wrong way up, it just goes in with some force. I got it the wrong way around, big D on top, it's been a while! See page 07-8 for a clear...

When you look at the end of the camshafts theres a slit across them that the camshaft timing tool slots in to, either side of the slot it looks like a small D and a big D. http://s4.photobucket.com/user/geesus69/media/cup%20racer/Photo0264.jpg.html[/URL][/IMG]

Actually now that I've thought about it, it may be possible to lock the camshafts 180 degrees out, the big D of the camshafts should be facing down.

It should be fine to drive on a knackered dephaser, it's just the metal plates inside that seperate the two different oil galleries to advance/r****d the timing have worn and start making that rattling noise. They have a tendancy to go right after a belt change!

The knock doesn't sound so heavy in that video and it's running rough as hell, doesn't have any bent valves? The timing is a 10min job to check if you have the tools for it, I would do that first. The only way I can see of getting the timing wrong (apart from not tightening the pulleys correctly...

That does sound like a dephaser rattling. A worn dephasaer is fine to drive on.

I've fitted euro car parts ones to mine, they went on fine. Make sure its all located properly underneath where it goes through the body of the car to the tension equalizer, if it's not in properly it will appear to be too short.

By disconnecting the spark plug leads I mean with the engine running, one at a time to see if the knock goes away when one of the cylinders isn't firing. You would know then it isn't valve slap and what cynlinder it's in. The rod journals weren't damaged were they?

If you replaced the cambelt I assume you have the timing tools? It's just a case of sticking the horseshoe tool in the cam slots and crank locking pin in. It does sound heavier than valve slap to me though, have you tried disconnecting the plugs one by one to try and isolate it to a cylinder?

It's probably the pivot squeaking, stick some white grease in there.

I know you mentioned about the jubilee clip but it's what I've used time and time again and I'd say probably works better than the proper tool...Just bend one around the tensioner and tighten, simple as that, I keep the clip in my toolbox and can be used time and time again it also holds the...

It's not quite a case of them being fiddly as such (they are), it's that it cannot be done without the locking tools.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/46390759/F4R_730.pdf

Mine have visible rust on them before I've managed to wash the entire car. It's not a problem that can be sorted, iron just rusts like mad, cars arn't suppose to sit still for too long.

I bought a £25 tool to do this, done it's job. Whether you will need to it again is down to how many potholes/kerbs you plan to hit in the future.

Not really something I would bother fixing.

Yep just held in by 3 bolts, just make sure the stat goes back in the same way it came out (I don't think it fits the wrong way, but just to make sure). To bleed just open the bleedscrew and fill until coolant starts flowing out of the bleed screw, close bleed screw then top up some more until...

I haven't got a guide but I done this not so long ago so could describe it. Assuming you have no collant in the car: 1) remove bumper + slam panel 2) Jack up and remove wheel + undertray + arch liner + mud guard 3) Place jack with block of wood under engine and take up the weight, then remove...

They like to squeak on clios. It's just a reno thing.

1 inch bar and a 10foot scaffolding pipe, that's what I used in the same situation. I would probably use a combination of heat/penetrating fluid/shocking it and using a bigger bar. If it doesn't budge with that then an impact wrench probably won't do it.

I got pagid cable from ECP for about £15 I think. It ended up being a bit too short but I couldn't see it causing any problems and money was tight with mot round the corner so fitted it and it's been fine. The compensator picks up the extra length in the original nicely.

The biggest gain for me is piece of mind knowing my car hasn't been abused, or the work not carried out, or carried out improperly in a rush. My old man is a mechanic and seeing the practices of mechanics has always put me off using garages tbh.

You can if you want for piece of mind, they only cost about £3 from ECP and its only 3 bolts to take the thermo housing off. You will need to get at the lower rad hose to properly drain the system which is located just up from under the bumper, but I've never been able to get at it from any way...