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Basic answer...........rpm.
As withany engine the simple answer to power is the amount fo air you can precess per unit of time, usually a minute fo example.
A 6ltr engine make more power than a 2ltr engine at the same rpm simply because its processing more air in the same amount of time...
With clutch slip the rpm will increase rapidly with no increase in speed. The car will slowly speed up and the rpm/speed will match, accompanied with the scent of crisp clutch.
Usually the rpm will continue to increase though, try it in top gear.
I dont replace followers unless its needed and its not included in the price. ALthough reconditionning can be done for as near a good result.
Followers are around that price yea.
Renault havea specific tool aka bar which slots into the crank to hold TDC.
You dont need it, just place cylinder #1 at TDC and use the timing marks on the cam cover and pullies.
The problem lies in the inlet manifold, this is where the majority of the gain will come from and the reason nobody has touched 200bhp. The head is fine as such, and more than ok for over 200bhp
larger inlet valves, the std ones are soddigly large for a 2ltr 16V, more than enough flow scope...
No, its just to give you an idea on its effects.
GrpN regs limit the modifications on the engine quite drastically, so its nothing special. If anybody sayss they have GrpN such and such a part...its nothing to write home about.
200+bhp without the use of throttle bodies isnt hard, the correct work will see you there without much trouble.
If you got the money, we can talk about 300 odd bhp NA form F4R engines.
Getting small flow gains yourself isnt hard and is jsut basic detailing of the port shape. But you wont really gain much from the F7P with detailing as the port isnt as such a good shape , btu just so soddingly large that you dont want to remove anymore material if you dont know where to remove...
My 172 ran a peak rpm of 8 thou all day long, not neccesarily needed for power reasons but you can hold a gear long through a corner without swapping cogs.
not that it wasnt designed to, it cant.......its a part bin special.
THe crank aint the strongest, the piston speeds too high and it jsut cant rev. If Ren could of built it within cost then they would of, but such a short run number its not worth desining and building a batch of strong...
The only way id move over to a 2ltr lump for this particular engine is if i had the use of a steel crank. THe williams crack costs less than the 1800 unit, i just dont like the oversquare nature of it.......ive always been and always will be a patron of the rpm camp.
Your cams will be dictating where the power is made, and no amount of fiddling with ignition timing and injection will bring it down, itl peak at teh same place, but you might be able to pickup a few ft/lbs lower down.
The megane block conversion is what most people do simply because breakers...
Yup, straight swap, all u need is the engine, ECU (or a chipped 16V one) and the willy exhaust manifold if your going to use it.
Its got alot more torque, some people like the engine, some people dont..........i dont.