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Having removed my ECU just make sure you get someone knowing exactly what to do as it's an utter nightmare if they don't.
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Was until yesterday making 200hp at the wheels (approx 250hp) with jenveys and a race engine with a lot of nice pure bits running E85
Until the rod on Cylinder 3 decided to separate it's bolts and go out the front of the block.(video taken 1 lap...
Had different head and cams so no direct comparison. The rs2 gives a very flat torque curve through the rev range and as a personal opinion gives a better induction sound than the it's. I think it is the carbon fibre that allows for such a good sound.
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I have an original rs2 (not copy) that I took off to put on Jenvey ITBs. It is a straight swapover just bolt on the factory throttle body.
If anyone is interested in it just private message me and we can discuss a sale price.
It does sound awesome.
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While you can get to all the seals and before you change anything I suggest using compressed air and soapy water to test for leaks under pressure
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I'm getting a pretty flat torque curve and ran the car up to a 7750 rev limiter as revs are important being a race car.
Below dunk is at the wheels. Gained about 20hp by moving the cams.
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Yes it is.
I give you some details.
Pure motor sport headers, ported head, exhaust.
Supertech double valve springs, titanium retainers and valves. Head assembled by pure.
Jenvey throttle bodies.
Wossner pistons 11:1 with pec rods. I'd go for the pure ones if I'd do It again.
Cat cams...
+1 for pure.
Don't need arp.
OE bolts, head gasket ect.
What power do you want. I have itbs in a race car and have over 200hp at the front wheels.
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Have you done any work to your crank? Could be the end cap as well. I would also check your crank case breather as If it's not breathing properly it had a tendency to want to push oil out the back of the motor
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Crank seal likely candidate. Renault have a strange way of installing the real main seal where the seal sits about 3mm proud of the block wheras on most other cars they sit flush so most mechanics will not get that one right.
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Like I've said before I must be your cousin from the land of OZ, my first race meeting this year was destroyed through electrical issues and 3rd gear gone. Just having the gear box rebuilt again, new clutch and total rewire behind the firewall. It's not fun
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A guy I race against has a slightly improved setup with a rectangle air filter fitted into the bottom part of the box letting even more air come through.
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Im using a motec c187 reace dash, connected by canbus to a emtron ecu.
It downloads the data so you can do the same annalysis very quickly as a proffesional race team. However compared to development time with no accurate tools its extreemly cheap. nvm
And.. it looks super cool.
Unfortunatly...
I'd go suspension next. Go the ktec 750 club suspension. The b14's spring rate is far to low and you don't get a coil over in the rear. With the ktec kit you get great spring rates with a spax one way adjustable damper. I thought it would be too firm but it's very compliant and gives you...
Mate I wouldn't bother about the engine on the std ecu. Do a aircon delete (as you poms don't need one anyway) and spend money on adjustable shocks and upgraded spring rates. Go the PMS gear shifter and buy the best R spec tyres you can get. Yokohama A050's are a good start.
The other free...
I have tb's on a std motor with 182 exhaust manifold, decat on e85 and additional power = 10 hp.
Agreed it's not just the head but I add a proper worked head, cams, superteck valves and springs additional hp = 》100
3 x 13 racing. 3 x the luck
My engine failure was due to a shoddy engine builder.
I think for a race engine tune ability is the most important thing you can do so going for an after market ecu is a must. Of course this has to be matched to a good tuner who can tune the ecu. This will allow you to get the engine to suit...