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why the f**k have people in the hot rod scene been doing rat rods for years? why have euro scene been doing smoothed cars for years... why does it matter... you drive a saab there for your opinion on anything automotive means nothing.
frankly i think your a waste of good air...
if you had taken the time to read what was said you would know the car is like this as he crashed it on a drift practice...
which you can see the damage here
thats a write off... no saving it... so he decided to use it as a drift cars and piss...
lol ross the guy who owns dragon is a little.... erm... strange lol! he has a habbit of thinking what would be the most extreme stupid thing i could do that would piss off people the most... then does it.... naked...
there is another tuner who is massively religious... ross has a habit of...
why?? its a car that ross from dragon uses to practice drifting... he goes full bore in to every corner in it... one of the first times he took it on track to drift he crashed it... then decided to just make it rat...
dragons d2 :) i did post in the jdm thread ages ago about it... i think its cool lol! he has put yogurt on it to make it grow moss too lol!
looks sexy here too
i would either go with turbo to mani or turbo to elbow if you put the elbow on from under the car i always found you couldnt get enough power in the nuts to get a good grip plus banging the downpipe around while you try and bolt it up crushes and dislodges the gasket and makes them blow... im...
tbh i would be very surprised if your hks parts are out of align... i would be going with one of the other parts... did you use assembly paste? if you got a cheap decat.... make sure the flanges are flat... and make sure its not your mani to turbo joint or turbo to elbow joint blowing... i would...
20b is 3 rotor 26b is 4 rotor.... but... you are looking £15k for a 20b and £25k+ for a 4 rotor build...
im going back to poppups im 90% sure anyway lol
hnmmm tbh its not too hard, it depends on the mapping etc... you can keep sequentials off boost easy... however the sequential settup can be fussy and hard to sort if they get a problem which is why most people go non sequential or single... if you were closer i would say you could come have a...
and 9nm... forget that... go a bit tighter by hand lol... i dont think i have ever torqued anything up to the book unless its a head or drive shafts or clutches lol.
stop the viscous fan... wedge a screwdriver in it before you start it... then feel around the mani etc get some loo roll and split the ply then use a single ply piece around the joints to search for blows...
on your mani... the gasket you used... was it the multi layer metal jobby??? not the...
yeh im on mazda rotary club and fduk :)
no driving vids yet... atm it has no interior lol!
tbh stock twins will run 350bhp and prob be more responsive (less lag) than a single... unless you go for a to4e or something small... a set of 99 spec twins running the stock sequential would be a...
its been held up for a min... i have been sooooo busy with work i havent had time to work on it... then like today when i do have a chance... its pissing down and i have no actual garage to work in... so im looking for a unit to rent atm... its 90% there :)
you can get high temp gasket stuff... you need to make sure that its all bone dry though... and let it dry completely before you put coolant through it etc...
i just dont like the jap silvia kouki bumper... the uk and us versio is ok... i actually prefer the zenki though... look more jap to me the 14a or kouki looks a bit american or euro to me... but its all personal pref... im semi tempted to get a 14 and just turn it in to a drift beater.... or a...
dont mean to worry you... but take the thermo housing off completely and check it for cracks... i have cracked a few in my time lol... if you put it on and the thermo drops down or sits funny you can crack the housing/pipe bit... i had mine ally welded up in the end.... if its on there flush...
they are easy to work on but the thing that always fucked me over every time without fail was removing the oilfilter... especially with the inlet mani brace on it.... i actually went mental more than once on mine lol! i chucked an axe across the road, through a hedge... across the next road in...
i would of put the downpipe on to the turbo then fitted it all in one go to save an arse ache.... i threaded my oil feed on the block... i had to get it to a garage and have the block tapped and helicoiled with the engine in place... cost me 400 quid :/ the stock turbo is pretty strong on...