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I took a test drive in a 2.0 JTDm Alfa Giulietta today and I am very tempted to buy it. It was the 170bhp version and went very well, it was also very quiet smooth and handled well. It is a sensible enough car for the family, but not too common like a Ford/Vauxhall/VW which is why it appeals.

Try carparts4less. They are the same company as eurocarparts, but are often cheaper. If you spend over £50 you will get £5 off as well.

In that case it sounds like a sticking electro valve, possibly in the crankcase recirculation system or the fuel vapour recovery system. It may be sticking open occasionally and allowing air to be drawn into the inlet. That will affect the servo vacuum and make the car go into limp mode.

I had this problem after I removed the gearbox. It is just a case of loosening the nut and twisting the linkage in relation to the rod slightly. It might take a couple of goes to get it spot on. I suppose you could get someone to sit in the car and hold the stick in the middle, but I used the...

On my car there was a fair bit corrosion staring on the brake servo. I have dealt with it, but if it had of been left it would surely have ended up as a hole. I would take a look at yours (under the driver side arch liner) as it sounds like you may have a leak in that area.

I had to get someone to turn the engine over slowly via the crank pulley as I pushed on the gearbox to get the splines to align.

Did you go to Kwik fit?

To be honest I find the brakes pretty poor either way. There seems to be little retardation before they lock, but it was worse before I ties the load vale arm upwards.

I know it will lock the rears, that's why I am going to take off the cable tie as soon as the test is passed. :wink: The arm was stuck down due to corrosion, and I have freed it off. The discs and calipers are fine, the handbrake recorded 51% efficiency, which I understand is very good for one...

Because I had absolutely no effort on the brakes whatsoever, I think there should be at least some effort. The arm on the valve was a bit seized, so I have freed it up as well as cable tying the arm. Only took 10 mins anyway.

Next to the compensator is a hole in the chassis. I fitted a bolt to the hole and cable tied the arm up. Once the MOT is passed I will take the cable tie back off.

I took the car for it's MOT yesterday. It failed on the usual problem of low rear brake effort, which I have now hopefully sorted. However the tester mentioned that the car has an additional ARB fitted to the rear. I had seen it, but I didn't realise that the original ARB is still fitted inside...

Mine goes reasonably well for a 2.0 under 5k, but after that it really moves. My understanding of variable valve timing systems like those on the clio is that they are there to make up for the loss of low and mid range torque which you would normally get due to the lumpy cams. It isn't like on...

I have had T1-R's on a couple of cars. My Nissan 200SX and on my Fiat Bravo. On the Nissan they seemed terrible with very poor wet grip, where as on the Fiat they seemed reasonable, but then it only had 86BHP I wouldn't buy them again, they are an old pattern now and there are better tyres for...

I had a Mk4 Golf V5 not too long ago, and they have a stealth system as standard. People who have fitted performance stealth exhausts have also suffered boomyness inside the car because of the noise reflecting back up from the road.

If you are having the cambelt done it is worth getting the seals behind the pulleys replaced and the cam cover resealed as well. My car had the belt done 10000 miles ago but I have leaks from both areas. For what it costs in parts and for a little bit more time it is worth it for peace of mind,

I am happy with my cheapo ebay exhaust. As quiet as the standard one on the Focus most of the time but sounds good when accelerating hard, and appears very good quality. Certainly a lot easier to live with than the Stealth piper, for me at least.

Mine say cup 172, not sure if that is correct though...

I am pretty sure, I have had the inlet manifold off and had a look, as well as looking up from underneath when I changed the gearbox.

I think they are a bit like Italian cars. They are generally reliable if they have been looked after correctly. Abuse them and it will cost you though. If you take your time, do some research and choose a good one you will love it.

Park the car on level ground and measure from the middle of thge wheel to the arch, that is much more accurate than measuring from the tyre. Also shocks don't affrect ride height, all they do is damp the springs movement. The springs support the weight of the car.

I read somewhere that optimal oil temperature is between 80 and 100ºC no matter what car you have. That is sump temperature, oil can run hotter for brief periods such as when it is down the cylinder bores. Any more than about 120ºC though and it will start to break down.

The stealth Piper exhaust I had with central silencer was really good quality and had a nice note to it. The main problem I had with it was the kids complained it was too noisy in the back, although it wasn't too bad in the front or from outside. Stealth systems tend to send soundwaves towards...

Some may be but this one certainly isn't. It makes my clio as quiet as the Mrs 1.6 Ford Focus.

Engine mount, probably the dogbone under the car. Easy and cheap to fix.

I have these on mine. Good quality, cheap and sounds perfectly fine. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290612456262?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301448557088?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The only problem is that now...

Well my next car almost certainly won't be French. Dont get me wrong I love the way the Clio drives but I am less keen on the reliability and build quality.

Looks very nice, I am tempted to do the wheels on mine black. Mine has been a headache to be honest, but I think I have finally sorted the worst of the issues with it. I went back to a standard exhaust on mine, as although it wasn't too loud in the front the kids moaned about the noise in the back.

My belt was done by an ordinary garage 10,000 miles ago (before i bought it). I am pretty sure the timing is near enough correct, but the dephaser rattles and the cam cover leaks. At the mileage (72k at the time) I would have expected a specialist to have done the dephaser and resealed the...

I am planning to maybe get two cars next. Something fairly slow and boring, but economical and with room for the kids. I also fancy something like a Westfield/Caterham, with a decent amount of power.