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Or get a noisy exhaust/air filter. ;)

This might sound like a daft question but have you checked that the gearbox has oil in it? They do tend to leak a bit and over time it can disappear.

Eibach Pro kit springs are great and work well on standard dampers.

If it isn't urgent keep an eye out on ebay for a used box at a good price, then buy it. If you are not in a rush then you can wait until the right one turns up. You should get a good used one for about £200-250 delivered or a bit less if you are willing to collect. Once your old box is out you...

I just had a look at the box in the garage. The metal plate and tube is easy to remove and the oil seal is behind. The oil seal can certainly be chainged without diamantling the box, but I think it is highly unlikey you could do the bearing as well.

I have my old box in the shed, I am tempted to go outside and have a look. The box I have is good apart from needing a diff bearing I think.

The shaft you see sticking out in the middle is the input shaft. That metal plate around it which is held by two bolts retains the oil seal and probably the bearing.

I don't know if there is such a thing as an easy fix on these cars... :coldsweat: Mine has been an utter nightmare, but I am slowly getting on top of everything.

I had OMP pads on my Fiat Coupe 20V Turbo. A car which is known for brake squeal. The OMP pads were silent where just about everything else I tried wasn't, and they stopped the car very well too.

I think you will need to remove it completely to do the input bearing. There is a plate inside which retains the oil seal, but I don't know if you can remove the bearing without splitting the box, or even if there is enough room. Lowering the subframe to remove the box completely isn't much of...

You are going to need to remove the gearbox, it isn't a job for the faint-hearted but it can be done. I just fitted a replacement box to mine, it took a couple of days at a steady pace.

Compared to the crap that were fitted when I got the car they are a revelation. I had Pagid on my previous BMW as well, and they were great on that also. Personally I am not a huge fan of EBC pads, but each to their own. I have had good results with Ferodo, Mintex and OMP as well.

Sounds like it could be the input shaft bearing. Can you hear it when the car is idling in neutral? The clutch release bearing usually makes a noise when you depress the clutch if it has failed.

Not sure what discs I have but I have the standard Pagid pads from ECP and in day to day use it is great, as well as with some spirited driving.

I have one like this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-EXPERT-37871-75-120mm-THREE-LEG-OIL-FILTER-WRENCH-REMOVAL-TOOL-1-2-SQ-DR-/160963077343?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item257a25a4df It worked fine, and doesn't take much room to use. I have had it for about 10 years and it has worked on every...

I am going to update on this. The cheap genuine Dogbone mount listed above for the 1.2 Clio/Kangoo etc had bushes which were a lot softer than the ones originally on the car and it would allow the manifold to hit the subframe under acceleration, so despite what the advert says it isn't the...

We had a 1.2 Fiat Bravo with 150k on the clock. It used no oil and ran like a dream. As long as the car has been well looked after don't let mileage put you off if the price is right.

I haven't used NS-2's on the Clio but I have had them on other cars. They are not as good as premium tyres, but for the money they are very good. I found the compound pretty hard, so they do lack a little wet grip. The upside is that they would cope with a track day without overheating too much...

If you have solid mounts the problem is probably less likely. I was thinking you may have worn ones, but it doesn't sound like it is the case.

Engine mounts?

As above get a Helicoil/recoil thread insert. Just as strong if not stronger than the original thread. Running 3 bolts is dangerous, Renault fitted 4 bolts in the first place for a reason. Even if you get the bolt in there and manage to tighten it to a fashion there is a chance it will come out...

Well I bought the car without doing my research. :( It was advertised with a recent cambelt change, but I didn't know that the dephaser needs doing as well.

Thanks for that, just trying to get a rough idea. The belt was only done recently, but the dephaser rattles and the cam cover leaks. 😧

I can sort of see the attrcation in having something unique, but IMO you would be better off selling the Clio and buying an R26

Just a little. :)

How far apart are these holes? I might be tempted with a different badge to cover them up.

How much would you expect to pay to get a cup done? Including new seals behind the cam sprockets and resealing the cam cover?

I couldn't get it to do that for some reason. Not to worry, it is all done now.

I managed to get at the bolt, but there wasn't enough room to get the column and the rack to seperate. I had to lower the rack away from the UJ to get it to come out.

I did have a look at the column but there appeared nothing to unbolt. In the end I had to drop the subframe back down again, a lack of space and the fact the stub on the rack would only come off of the column with the subframe lowered meant that this was necessary. Absolute pig of a job. :(