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Yes you need a torque wrench. Either do it properly or don't. I usually give the caliper a full inspection, checking all seals, clips and surfaces etc, Clean as much as is practical, use the proper grease and follow a bedding in procedure for the new brakes. There are good reasons for it all...

15mins isn't just the number for the car. Most of us aren't experienced racers and every minute you push past the 15mins you are more and more likely to make a costly mistake. It's the time on track that's recommended by the organisers and instructors at the airfield and circuit days I do. I bet...

Buy a small digital timer off eBay and stick it somewhere on the dashboard. Set it to 15mins when on track and stick to it. I did just 17 mins last time I was out and whereas at 15 the car was coping well those extra 2 mins I spent honking round everything started to wilt! I'll be running...

I'd buy the extra litre for the simple reason that having a gearbox that doesn't weep from the selector shaft seal is a rare thing. I topped mine up again this year and gave it a clean.

Been covered. The Cup subframes wishbone hole position, wishbone balljoint position, and wheel offset were all different from the other 172's out the factory. As far as I knew the 182 cup and full fat shared the 172 cups setup but I don't know about a normal 182.

Think I'm gonna order another conrod and wanker white bush just to be on the safe side!

Ok. thanks!

Am I being really thick? You mean inside the boot over the end of the selector where the ball on the conrod resides? Or are you on about the bit under the circlip?

I got the pictures from this thread. http://www.cliosport.net/threads/gear-knob-movement.678744/

Have you got a picture as that's all I can find from your two part numbers was those two bits. The part number using all my cars details in dialogys I have for the sleeve (No.9) is 8200182557. Hence my confusion. Have you got a photo of the No.9 you have? As the internet brings up that little...

I'm guessing it's these two. Can't believe I didn't realise it came off. As for that spacer. There wasn't one on the car maybe due to previous owner efforts so I didn't think to order one. Explains why I have plenty of movement in mine. Let me know when you fit yours wether that spacer is sided...

So the knurled bit is actually removable and is jst sat on the bolt!? Where does the other part go? I can't find it on the gear linkage schematic. Thanks for looking into this by the way!! I just hope the few thousand miles I've done with a new conrod linkage bit with a worn knurled bit in it...

Standard Valeo clutch in my re-mapped 206 HDI is holding on to 50lbs/ft more than was intended and being a diesel see full torque quite often. There is nowt wrong with their clutches.

That's the bit that does not appeal to me at all. As most Cups end up as track cars I feel it would be a pants thing to do to the next owner down the line!

I'll bare that in mind. Your not a mile away and the stories of the RS tuner making the ECU it's own put me off. That and not having a reliable laptop. I flashed my HDI diesel map fine but I didn't enjoy the experience of doing it myself.

As said difficult to assess cost. Without seeing it. Eg. A basic caliper clean up and fluid change may sort the braking woes which is pretty much free DIY. Light problem could be a corroded pin or just a bad connection etc etc.

Generic?

White bit is a sod to fit. Well mine was. I squished mine in with a socket on a jack that still allowed me to poke at the circlip to get it to fit. Just using the weight of the engine and gearbox did the job. Compare size of old and new and you'll see what I mean!

Going straight out at full pelt and not cooling them down afterwards won't help.

Avoid arduous driving conditions so start stop and sharp acceleration and it'll be most likely to survive. You'd be unlucky if it was to self destruct in that 50 miles unless it is a properly sketchy belt job. You can hire 3.5ton car transporters for a reasonable amount if like me you don't...

It will be fine.

A miss is as good as a mile when lining things up. Check it all again. My Dad eyeballs all the clutches we do as he hasn't had a lot of success with alignment tools. Can't recommend this as if I do it the gearbox never just slides home. Smart ass git he is :P

A Clio isn't an aircraft. Unless your a pro performance car builder where these things matter then just get anything that feels good and sturdy. Unless your using new bolts in clean threads then most torque settings are utter balls anyway. if you leave any kind of lubricant on there then again...

The ball joint holes are drilled so as to push the wheel forward to give more castor, the cup subframe has the holes drilled further out which along with a different offset gives a wider track. If you search on ebay for clio wishbones a standard wishbone has the bolts pretty much in the centre...

182 cup rear shocks are 172 cup shocks. Exactly the same. Ignore the part numbers that say the 172 cup has the same as a normal 172. I have 182 cup rears on my 172 cup. No issues with fitment at all.

My MPG comes at the cost of being able to play with much less of the field. I'd die of shock if I saw another standard car on road tyres at a track day these days. Good job I'm only in it to improve my shitty driving skills and have a laugh.

I use one tankful at a local track day. That gets me there and back and does 8 15min sessions. Not bad at all really. Saves messing around with poxy cans!

Mine failed with 10 on one side and 20 on the other. A replacement caliper and new fluid brought this up to 30 and 40. That was with a not particularly good set of discs and pads and before I had it all apart and made sure everything was spot on. The rear calipers are the same as the front...

Beep Beep. Beep Beep. BEEP f**king. BEEEEEP........... Bang! That how I imagine it feels to be an abused mk3 F4R [emoji14]